Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
My R6 eat tires for lunch
Joined
·
859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i found out 1 of my forks is leaking oil....I went to shop around to get this problem fixed and hott dammn! its expensive. So now,i concluded that im going to have to do this myself,but i dont even know where to start. I guess i'll just ask what i know as of now....There's gonna be things i need to complete this, like Fork Oil,Fork Seals,Dust Seals,and all the tools required for this job.

Okay so the Fork oil- i think im just gonna go with whats recommended(Fork oil 01) and hit up the Yamaha dealer.Price for that was like $34
But i read some of yall talking about Maxima's?:confused:

Fork Seals and Dust seals- OEM is like $70 ($15 a piece)
But Cycle Gear got a kit that is only $26 "Bike Master" You guys think skipping the OEM seals for some cheaper 1s is a good idea? Any experience on this?

The Tools-Fork cap Remover? How can i go the Poor Mans route and not have to buy any special tools to complete this,(gonna use my friends garage tools) Im thinking Gaint monkey wrench would work for the fork caps,But what about the wheels? i was looking around to see what i need to take off to work on the forks and im assuming a couple of Allens for the Speed cluster and some bolts, but at the bottom is a huge Allen-like screw to take off the front wheels. I would need a special tool to remove that right? Can some1 be kind enough to Name all the tools im need to complete this job so i can go around collecting them.

Sorry its so long but Any1 out there Know exactly what needs to be done to remove those forks from the bike. After i get the forks removed i'll just follow some of the Videos on what to do next. but it seems the hardest part is removing the forks from the bike. Do i need to measure how many clicks on top of the fork is before i do anything else?

PS. Can we take this seriously PLEASE
 

·
Formerly Stealth Raven
Joined
·
3,951 Posts
if you hit 150 mph on average, then you need not worry...the gravitational pull at those speeds will wrinkle out any issues with your forks. ;)
 

·
My R6 eat tires for lunch
Joined
·
859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
there are ways to do it ghetto style but i would highly recommend the proper tools
yea..but buying tools isnt really an option right now. and its my only transportation. Soo i need to get this done asap. i think im go with the pcp pipe as a fork driver if i can just built it right

ANY1 FROM ATL THAT HAS TOOLS I CAN USE?? < lol random
 

·
professional noob
Joined
·
166 Posts
was looking to do mine in the near future too so i briefly looked at it and from what i can tell ( now mind you i havent done this yet but soon will ) the only special tool needed to get the forks out is the one for the front wheel nut which you can get at cycle gear and it works for most sportbikes. pretty much just have to loosen the triple clamps and slide them out ( i might be mistaken easy on the flaming) other than that not sure how to take the forks apart. you can you tube the bork removal or search some how to threads/ or message some of the suspension guys here like Dan Q ( very helpful guy ). other than that good luck and if u do figure it out make a thread :sing
 

·
UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
Joined
·
6,380 Posts
The easiest way to get the forks apart is using an air impact gun to remove the bottom bolt. You can count on a frustating trouble filled day without it. You might get lucky, but don't count on it. And then trying to reassemble them without the air gun will result in the bolt just spinning, for sure.
 

·
Cant get enough of my 6
Joined
·
973 Posts
From the sounds on your approach to this project im gonna go ahead and guess torquing the bolts to spec isnt in your to do list on the fix?? If you are really unsure of what your doing i suggest letting someone that does do the job. You may end up doing more damage than just the blown fork seal
 

·
My R6 eat tires for lunch
Joined
·
859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The easiest way to get the forks apart is using an air impact gun to remove the bottom bolt. You can count on a frustating trouble filled day without it. You might get lucky, but don't count on it. And then trying to reassemble them without the air gun will result in the bolt just spinning, for sure.
awww shit. yea this is tougher then i thought

From the sounds on your approach to this project im gonna go ahead and guess torquing the bolts to spec isnt in your to do list on the fix?? If you are really unsure of what your doing i suggest letting someone that does do the job. You may end up doing more damage than just the blown fork seal
Yea...I forgot about this shop Up the street(OTC), gonna check with them tomorrow and see if they will give me a deal on this job. like 100$ labor is still alot but thats wayy less than the 295$ Yamaha is asking on just labor. IF i cant get the deal im probably just gonna wing it and work on it anyways this weekend.
 

·
My R6 eat tires for lunch
Joined
·
859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
was looking to do mine in the near future too so i briefly looked at it and from what i can tell ( now mind you i havent done this yet but soon will ) the only special tool needed to get the forks out is the one for the front wheel nut which you can get at cycle gear and it works for most sportbikes. pretty much just have to loosen the triple clamps and slide them out ( i might be mistaken easy on the flaming) other than that not sure how to take the forks apart. you can you tube the bork removal or search some how to threads/ or message some of the suspension guys here like Dan Q ( very helpful guy ). other than that good luck and if u do figure it out make a thread :sing
Yea there's like 5 unique tools needed for this project. But hey! if i do work on it myself, i'll try to document all the roadblocks and post just for the hell of it :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Another idea, call the shop and find out how much cheaper it would be if you took the fork(s) out yourself and brought them into the shop. It might drop the price SIGNIFICANTLY, because those are labor hours they don't have to spend getting the fork out.
 

·
UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
Joined
·
6,380 Posts
You will still need an air compressor and impact gun. You don't need a "giant allen wrench" to remove the wheel. Just don't loosen the pinch bolts on that side. Loosen the pinch bolts on the opposite side and use a wrench to remove the bolt. THEN loosen the other pinch bolts to remove the axle.

You can do the job without a fork seal driver by using a PVC (not a "pcp", that could get you arrested :D) pipe. I don't see where you mentioned what year your bike is, or if it is a "S" or not. But on the S with right side up forks, a brass hammer is what I've used to drive the seal in with the PVC pipe. The brass hammer won't nick the fork tube. On Upside down forks, You cut the PVC in half, and zip tie it together on the fork tube (you want to use a size that is a little loose on the tube, so you don't damage the lip on the seal). Then use the upper fork tube to tap the seal in place.


But buying the correct tool makes it easier :secret
 

·
My R6 eat tires for lunch
Joined
·
859 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Another idea, call the shop and find out how much cheaper it would be if you took the fork(s) out yourself and brought them into the shop. It might drop the price SIGNIFICANTLY, because those are labor hours they don't have to spend getting the fork out.
Your right. i checked it out and they said if i bring them the forks only, they will charge me 75$ (which is half the price)

You will still need an air compressor and impact gun[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR]. You don't need a "giant allen wrench" to remove the wheel. Just don't loosen the pinch bolts on that side. Loosen the pinch bolts on the opposite side and use a wrench to remove the bolt. THEN loosen the other pinch bolts to remove the axle.

You can do the job without a fork seal driver by using a PVC (not a "pcp", that could get you arrested :D) pipe. I don't see where you mentioned what year your bike is, or if it is a "S" or not. But on the S with right side up forks, a brass hammer is what I've used to drive the seal in with the PVC pipe. The brass hammer won't nick the fork tube. On Upside down forks, You cut the PVC in half, and zip tie it together on the fork tube (you want to use a size that is a little loose on the tube, so you don't damage the lip on the seal). Then use the upper fork tube to tap the seal in place.


But buying the correct tool makes it easier :secret
:lmao on the "pcp' pipe. WHOOPS!:) but umm i talked to some guys at the shop and i think im just gonna rip out the forks and lets them work on it. maybe next time around i'll have some money and can buy the impact gun and all that. Only problem now is finding some damm Ohlins Rt43.
 

·
Moderator - In Memorium
Joined
·
3,254 Posts
But buying the correct tool makes it easier :secret
Long story short after reading this thread, is the above is the best advice. It's so easy to screw up a fork while working on it, and then the only recourse is replacement in some cases.

If you don't have the tools, have someone who does have them do the job. Honestly, there is too much that can get messed up bad. That's not even point out that if you don't properly compress the spring and it gets loose someone can get hurt.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top