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Probably motion pro. You should use a real fork seal driver too. I've used a tail pipe and the old seal to protect the new seal before but the new one still leaked.
So I bought the ringer driver from motion pro and this time no leak.
Also check out their oil level tool. It will allow you to get the fork oil level exact.

I would also recommend you have the fork leg polished in a lathe. It will remove any small nicks or dirt that will cause the new seal to leak.
 

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The racetech unit. I used to use the traxxion and a ratchet strap, but if you plan on working on them more than once, the racetech setup is more stable and allows easier access at the locknut on the bottom of the fork cap.
 

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The traxxion tool is only like $35 or $40, the racetech is $115-$150 depending on where you buy it. You can also make your own pretty easily if you have the skill.

Sure they may not be worth it for one set of seals, but are you only going to change one set of seals your entire life? What about all your friends? Go in on a tool with some other people, or charge them $15 or $20 to use your tool, and it makes a lot more sense. The last quote I got for fork seals was over $200 on my RC51, which was just labor. Needless to say, I bought/made my own tools and did it myself.
 

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I have the Race Tech one, and I wouldn't dream of doing forks with something else. The fact that I can fine tune the cap fitment for even rebound clicks while compressed is enough to convince me. I also did 13 sets of forks during the month of March alone, so it gets it's use.
 

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Will the traxxion unit work for the 09 r6r? Its not listed on their website.

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Yes. All it is, is a ring with two threaded holes on either side, and two threaded pins that stick into the holes on the fork's spacer. You'll need a friend to push down on the tool while you loosen the locknut on the bottom of the fork cap, or you can thread a ratchet strap through the axle hole on the bottom of the fork, and hook the strap onto either side of the spring compressor. Make sure you aren't damaging the metal protrusions on the bottom of the cap when you are loosening the locknut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Finished the installl friday morning... a few notes.

1. The fork cap is 36mm for the 09 R6R, not 41mm.

2. Adjustable crescent wrench will ruin your fork cap.

3. A slide hammer style seal puller will make removing the old seal a breeze. This reduces the chances of scratching the aluminium tube with a flathead screwdriver.

4. As per DanQ in another thread, when priming the fork with new oil, put the damper needle back in and push down on the needle while stroking.


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2. Adjustable crescent wrench will ruin your fork cap.
Well, and adjustable wrench is an upgrade over channel locks. :laugh

3. A slide hammer style seal puller will make removing the old seal a breeze. This reduces the chances of scratching the aluminium tube with a flathead screwdriver.
What does this tool look like? Link? Sounds good; I have indeed scratched the outer tube while trying to get a stubborn seal out.
 

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Finished the installl friday morning... a few notes.

1. The fork cap is 36mm for the 09 R6R, not 41mm.

2. Adjustable crescent wrench will ruin your fork cap.

3. A slide hammer style seal puller will make removing the old seal a breeze. This reduces the chances of scratching the aluminium tube with a flathead screwdriver.

4. As per DanQ in another thread, when priming the fork with new oil, put the damper needle back in and push down on the needle while stroking.


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41mm is for the 06-07 forks. A couple companies make a fork cap specific 41mm hex wrench, but I didn't see any 36mm ones with a quick search. I did see these spiffy non-marring ones, but they don't have the right sizes: http://www.motomfg.com/category_s/47.htm

I've used crescent wrenches in the past without issues. It just depends on how tight the cap is. A good trick is to put something over the cap or wrench jaws like a plastic bag or duct tape. You can also use a socket if you are careful. Most sockets have a beveled edge inside which makes them not work very well on shallow nuts on fork caps. Some quick work with a grinder or lathe will give you a nice 90 degree edge to grip the cap with.

Loosening the cap when the forks are on the bike helps a lot. If you have a spare 50mm triple clamp laying around that helps too if you put it in a vise. I kept a twisted one from years ago and it comes in handy as a nice fork holder off the bike.
 
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