Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When you guys bought your frame sliders, did you have to do any hole cutting in the plastics? I want some brand that are going to bolt to hard structure, not fairing mounts.. Any specific brand you guys went with?

thanks
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,008 Posts
i got shogun sliders, i had the no cuts but after my oooops i changed over to the race kind where you have to cut the fairing. as for a slider that attaches to your fairing i have never seen any that do that. i would recommend the race ones simply for the fact that if your bike falls with the no cuts there is a possibilty of the bracket doing damage to your bike :cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
963 Posts
Frame sliders that require you to cut the fairing are stronger than the frame sliders where you don't have to cut the fairing. No doubt about it.

However, not all no-cut frame sliders are weak. I lowsided with LP carbon-fiber no-cut frame sliders at 45mph, and it held up just fine. Someone else on the forum had shogun no-cuts, and they snapped off. Sato no-cut frame sliders are pretty good because their brackets are long and are connected to two different points on the frame, thereby making them stronger than other no-cut frame sliders.

Some good brands:

Sato
Shogun
Intuitive
Lockhart Phillips

If I had to do it all over, I'd get sato no-cuts, then sato cuts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
963 Posts
Oh yeah, earache also hand-makes frame sliders, bar ends, and all that stuff. It's pretty good. I have a set of his bar-ends, and I like them a lot. They add good weight to the handlebars, so I don't get too much in terms of vibrations.

You can PM earache, but he's usually not on the forum anymore. Try his direct email off of his website: www.ericblattert.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,548 Posts
I have the Intuitive no-cut frame sliders and while I haven't tested them yet the brackets are awfully sturdy like close to 3/4 of an inch thick.

The thought of hacking of $250 a piece fairing bothered me.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
4,008 Posts
z31maniac said:
I have the Intuitive no-cut frame sliders and while I haven't tested them yet the brackets are awfully sturdy like close to 3/4 of an inch thick.

The thought of hacking of $250 a piece fairing bothered me.
it bothered me to, till my bike hit the gorund at 15 mph and the bracket bent and my fairing still got scratched up.

i would say the best reason to get the race(or cutting required) sliders is cause they stick out about an inch farther then the no cuts. or atleast the shogun ones do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
i installed my pro-impact frame sliders today. i ordered mine from LP for 40 bones. it was alot easier than i thought it was going to be. i just used the sharpie marker method to mark my fairing then the hardest part was deciding what size hole to drill. my FS's were a hair over 1"3/4 so i went ahead and used a 1"3/4 hole saw and it ended up fitting like a glove. before i drilled it looked like the holesaw wouldn't drill a big enough hole, but, i couldn't be more satisfied with the outcome. the white sliders on blue paint looks all sporty too. sweet...... :jump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Ed said:
However, not all no-cut frame sliders are weak. I lowsided with LP carbon-fiber no-cut frame sliders at 45mph, and it held up just fine. Someone else on the forum had shogun no-cuts, and they snapped off. Sato no-cut frame sliders are pretty good because their brackets are long and are connected to two different points on the frame, thereby making them stronger than other no-cut frame sliders.
probably was me! if it wasn't... add me to the list of people who ahd no-cuts that snapped off... i didn't lay it down tho, it kinda flew and then slammed... different situation but if i had race sliders i think they woulda held up better. the no-cut bracket stripped the bolt that held it to the mount. luckily the bolt wasn't as long as the stock bolt otherwise that'd be bad bad bad bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I am hearing both sides... But I guess its a matter of crashing hard or lightly..... Drilling holes or not... I guess the answer I am getting is choose your own and maybe drill some holes or when u fall take a chance on rigidy..

My next question is...what are the ball park prices on those sliders..both types..

Thanks again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
963 Posts
As for prices, the no cuts tend to run from 60 to 120 depending on what brand. Price doesn't necessarily mean quality, though, since some sliders with carbon fiber in them are just placed there for aesthetics. It's just a carbon fiber wrap around delrin.

The cut ones tend to be about 10 to 20 bucks cheaper.

If you're strapped for cash, but still want a good slider, check out earache's sliders: www.ericblattert.com. That guy hand makes that stuff, and it's the best bang for your buck. I think there's 1 or 2 AMA riders that use his sliders. I'm a big fan of his barends since they tend to reduce the rattle in my handlebars more than other barends. If you want a name brand, though, Sato, Shogun, and Intuitive would be my top choices. The Sato no-cuts are expensive as hell, though ($120). I think Graves makes some sliders, too. I'm not sure of the quality on them, but anything from Graves seems to be top-notch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,548 Posts
I got my Intuitive no-cuts from my dealer $99, (Intuitive's Web site had them listed at $109) the race ones or put a hole in your fairing would have been $59.

And then another $39 for the swingarm sliders that double as spools for a rear stand.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top