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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I've run into a bit of a problem was and hoping you can help. I was performing my regular maintenance on my 2005 R6 and was replacing the front sprocket. after 'unscrewing' the nut that 'held' the sprocket on the drive axle i found that it was completely striped, and the drive axle is losing its thread as well :eek5 I have already found the proper nut and washer on Yamaha's website but i am unsure on what to do with the axle. I think there is enough thread to work with, or I might be able to re-thread it. Has anyone ever done this before and if I do need to replace the whole axle, what kind of time am I looking at if I do it myself or what kind of labor cost & time would I be looking at for a Yamaha dealer to do it.
 

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As long as the threads aren't too far gone, you can attempt to clean them up with a a thread file or chase them with a die. And definitely use that new nut.

I'm not sure what's involved in replacing the output shaft; have a look at the Factory Service Manual for your year.

It is also worthwhile to understand why the threads were damaged in the first place. Was the nut cross threaded on? Was this the first time it was removed from the factory? If so, on some bikes they use an extreme thread locking compound, like red locktite on steroids. This stuff is so strong that if you just force the nut off the thread locker can take threads with it. The solution here is to apply heat and melt the thread locker before taking off the nut.

Good luck.
 

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Ive got a couple of extra rear axles that Id sell one to ya cheap so you do have to mess with cutting new threads. If just the nut is bad on the countershaft... easy fix. Threads... not so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As long as the threads aren't too far gone, you can attempt to clean them up with a a thread file or chase them with a die. And definitely use that new nut.

I'm not sure what's involved in replacing the output shaft; have a look at the Factory Service Manual for your year.

It is also worthwhile to understand why the threads were damaged in the first place. Was the nut cross threaded on? Was this the first time it was removed from the factory? If so, on some bikes they use an extreme thread locking compound, like red locktite on steroids. This stuff is so strong that if you just force the nut off the thread locker can take threads with it. The solution here is to apply heat and melt the thread locker before taking off the nut.

Good luck.
Not sure why the threads were damaged, i bought the bike a week ago; I guess it was initial maintenance instead of regular, but in any case, the last owner commuted and the original owner told him he didn't race or stunt it.

The dealer i took it to tried to put a nut on but it wouldn't stay on. I took it to another dealer they're partnered with who will try to clean up the threads up in the morning. If that doesn't work then i have to either wait a few weeks for the mechanic who can use the re-threader to come back, or find a new engine. A lightly used engine will be around 1000 and i could install it. The re-threading will be a few hundred. Fingers crossed they can clean the axle.

Interestingly enough, a die wont work on the drive axle, the metal used is too hard, the tool is some kind of special grinder.
 

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Whole new engine? You just have to change the counter shaft! I have a transmission in a box with good shafts and gears!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Whole new engine? You just have to change the counter shaft! I have a transmission in a box with good shafts and gears!
I could just change the counter shaft, put I don't trust myself not fcuk it up and a dealer would replace some other stuff in the transmission, totaling 2000+. And i am more familiar with changing out the whole engine than just the transmission.
 

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I could just change the counter shaft, put I don't trust myself not fcuk it up and a dealer would replace some other stuff in the transmission, totaling 2000+. And i am more familiar with changing out the whole engine than just the transmission.
2gs?? You can pull the motor yourself in about 2hrs with bathroom breaks.

Other than shift forks and the new output shaft and some seals... parts shouldnt be more than $500.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
2gs?? You can pull the motor yourself in about 2hrs with bathroom breaks.

Other than shift forks and the new output shaft and some seals... parts shouldnt be more than $500.
The parts are just about that, but remember a dealer takes forever to do anything, they quoted 16 hours @ 100/hour... Wishing I knew about this before I bought the bike, but atleast I can take 10k miles or so off of the engine.
 

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The parts are just about that, but remember a dealer takes forever to do anything, they quoted 16 hours @ 100/hour... Wishing I knew about this before I bought the bike, but atleast I can take 10k miles or so off of the engine.
um I hope youre not using any local Jax dealers. I guarantee you are getting hosed. I can put you in touch with a very talented mechanic that can assemble it better than any local slouch. He's hungry for work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
um I hope youre not using any local Jax dealers. I guarantee you are getting hosed. I can put you in touch with a very talented mechanic that can assemble it better than any local slouch. He's hungry for work.
That would be wonderful if you could get me his contact info, or if he is on the forum he can pm me, either way works.
 
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