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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm replacing my chain/sprockets and had a quick question about the front sprocket washer - is that a crush washer? I purchased a new nut/washer just for the sake of fresh parts, and noticed the FSM does indeed call for a new washer when replacing front sprocket... I'm coming to terms with my new SO Tech Angle torque wrench, and went a touch beyond 63 ft/lbs (not used to digital and it's easy to overshoot vs. a clicker), so backed it back off a smidge and re-torqued it to 63.5 and was happy with that.

I'm going to assume all is well and that I didn't compromise the washer by backing off/re-torquing, but figured I'd see what everyone thinks on that. I'd guess it does act as some form of crush washer as Yamaha recommends replacing each time, and I know with drain plug/banjos, that it's not always a good idea to reuse the copper/alum crush washers, so perhaps it's the same story on the front sprocket?

Regardless, it's threadlocked and torqued, so I'm going to suppress my paranoia and OCD and call it good! Now to try out this new RK chain riveting tool - wish me luck.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Should be fine.. it keeps the sprocket spaced off of the case and torqued to the output shaft shoulder. Is it a hollow nose rivet type? Some chains don't spec what diameter to expand the head to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, I'm not going to sweat it, I'll keep an eye on it. As far as the chain, it's a DID ERV7 with the hollow nose rivet, I actually found the flare specs on the DID website, something like .217-.228, and I'm in that ballpark according to my calipers. Was my first go at breaking/riveting a chain, so it too will be monitored often for signs of trouble.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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I have the motion pro breaker/hollow rivet model. Mine can't drive out a rivet unless I grind the head flush with the side plate first. Sadly my drive out pin snapped. So I have to make one of them. The diameter given is for the amount of crush, so you are good there.
 

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You didn't say what year your bike is... For the older bikes that had an internal toothed washer, you're supposed to flatten/fold one place over a flat on the nut, makes it a locking washer. On newer bikes, the washer is a thicker piece and the nut has a thin lip on the outside. You are supposed to stake that thin lip into a groove on the drive shaft, making it a locking nut. The older style will recommend a new washer after one or two uses, the newer style will recommend a new nut after one use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You didn't say what year your bike is... For the older bikes that had an internal toothed washer, you're supposed to flatten/fold one place over a flat on the nut, makes it a locking washer. On newer bikes, the washer is a thicker piece and the nut has a thin lip on the outside. You are supposed to stake that thin lip into a groove on the drive shaft, making it a locking nut. The older style will recommend a new washer after one or two uses, the newer style will recommend a new nut after one use.
Yeah, my apologies, I should've specified, it's a 3rd gen (2015). I replaced both the nut and washer, and staked it after torquing. I can't imagine compromising that massive washer after one loosening/re-torquing. It's torqued, threadlocked and staked, so I'm sure I'm golden.

Mordantly - the RK tool UTC2100(50) worked a treat, drove the flared rivet out of the OEM endless chain without issue, no grinding, though I can see how that would prevent excess stress on the tool if it didn't have to shove/shear the staked pin through the link. Might grab the DID tool as well to see which I prefer when it comes to flaring the rivets, but RK worked great.
 
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