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Update time:

I apologize in advance for the horrible wind noise, I just set up this helmet cam and need to put the mic somewhere else with a cat filter, but hopefully this will give ya'll a better idea of what's going on.

https://youtu.be/Zy7eZqw1Xfc

There is a video of what's happening to me.

https://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-warranty-premature-failure/1513-engine-shuts-off-while-riding.html

https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/10179-03-r6-engine-cutting-out.html

Here are a couple more threads about the issue. I forgot to mention that my bike also completely cuts out when I pull the clutch in.

I might just have two separate issues. If that's the case, this is getting seriously frustrating.

Since my last post:

-Tried 2 different ECU's from friends bikes (2nd gen R6...an 04 and another 05)
-Made sure charging system is all good (replaced battery and rectifier 1000 miles ago and stator is kicking 14v @ 5k rpms).

The threads above seemed to have died and I'd really like to figure out what the heck is going on. I think I stated this before but I also have brand new coils and spark plugs. I still suspect something fuel related.
you may have a TPS issue. the 2nd gen was notorious for having a bad tps. your's does not behave in the typical way they failed except for the need to keep it revved up manually when you pull the clutch in. I had a friend with an 04 that would randomly stall. it did it for a few years. then it progressed to doing what your's is doing. except it would pull all the way up through the revv range. but still, it has some of that TPS failure indicators.
I know they're $100 but I would suggest you try one. or swap it out for one on your buddy's bikes. it's not difficult to get it off. it requires the removal of the mid fairing frame insert and the side fairing. but you can swap your buddy's tps and take it for a ride and find out if that's it.
 

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Another update.

https://youtu.be/xpYVQTlXuoI

So the Throtte position sensor did fix the stalling and idle issues. Before, it wouldn’t make it to 180° without stalling. As you can see in the video, it made it to 200° with no problems. Unfortunately I still can’t get it to go above 11K RPM’s...I swapped tanks with my buddy. I don’t have any kinked fuel lines. Pressures are good.

The dyno operator said that all it needs is a tune...is it possible for these bikes to get so out of wack like this? I don’t have a problem buying a power commander and paying for a tune, if that doesn’t fix it though I’m gonna be ticked. What else could I look at? Throttle bodies? Injectors? This bike made it to redline with no problems last season before I put it away for winter. I winterized it. This is starting to get super frustrating now.
 

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Another update.

https://youtu.be/xpYVQTlXuoI

So the Throtte position sensor did fix the stalling and idle issues. Before, it wouldn’t make it to 180° without stalling. As you can see in the video, it made it to 200° with no problems. Unfortunately I still can’t get it to go above 11K RPM’s...I swapped tanks with my buddy. I don’t have any kinked fuel lines. Pressures are good.

The dyno operator said that all it needs is a tune...is it possible for these bikes to get so out of wack like this? I don’t have a problem buying a power commander and paying for a tune, if that doesn’t fix it though I’m gonna be ticked. What else could I look at? Throttle bodies? Injectors? This bike made it to redline with no problems last season before I put it away for winter. I winterized it. This is starting to get super frustrating now.
in my best guess, you have a fueling issue. it is a new problem for you so its not the ecu map. did you try riding the bike while testing the fuel pressure? sometimes this is necessary. as the fuel pump may have trouble and not able to keep up. I diagnosed a brand new Kawasaki Mule with a bad fuel pump by driving it around. it took a good 15 mins before it started acting up but the fuel pressure went from normal to almost nothing under wot but only after driving it for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Soooo I'm having strong pulls intermittently. When I have the tank up I tried to blow air through the return line into the housing. I cannot physically blow air into the housing. Is this supposed to be a valve that opens or am I testing incorrectly?

The issue is the same but I can randomly pull past 11K rpm
 

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Update time for me. My bike ended up getting even worse, barely running and then not at all so I took it to a shop. I had fuel injectors cleaned, a new TPS put in and just a general diagnostic done, to which the mechanic couldn’t figure out either. Apparently an ignition coil came loose, that’s why it wasn’t running at all, but now I’m still back to square one with this problem. No fuel lines are kinked, brand new coils and spark plugs, I’ve swapped ECU’s with multiple friends with 2nd gen R6’s. Got rid of all the gas in the entire system and replaced it with non oxy (which is what I run all the time anyways) Now it will randomly jump to redline if I let off the throttle for a second, and it has a hard time making it up there, and other times it will shoot right up to 16K like it’s normal. Anybody have any ideas?
 

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How are those spark plugs look'n? What are their gaps?
How do the coils ohm out?
Tank/Frame/Engine/Battery voltage drop test results? (tested under near full electrical load)
Same throttle body?
Throttle valves slide okay? (not blocking airflow)
Sticking Throttle Body Throttle Plates (Black)
First of all I'd just like to say thank you so much for all your help, and I notice you helping people on this forum all the time so on behalf of everybody on here, thank you Intuit.

Update time: Finally got the call today from my mechanic that it's done. After everything, it turned out to be bad coils. They read good so never thought anything of them. So lame. Must have just been a bunk set of coils.
 
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