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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I generally tour, take long trips etc - so have my 99 r6 set up that way. Originally I tapped off the taillight power for led voltmeter, digital clock, camera, gps. It worked but was always a bit unsatisfactory; the voltmeter reading suggested quite a bit of jumping around of the voltage when on/off brakes and turn signals, and once I had the gps flip to battery when coming up to a stop on the brakes and signalling; essentially, the relatively thin OEM wires in the harness were offering enough voltage drop for the varying loads to cause the voltage to bounce quite a bit.

I removed the aux circuit from the taillight circuit, and instead wired in a 5a fuse w/ relay directly off the battery. I supplied relay coil power by tapping into the lighting circuit just after its fuse- that puts all the new stuff down near the ecu. I used one of the typical 30a automotive normally-open relays. Voltage stability right at the battery is MUCH better- definitely worth the effort.

Suggest using 16ga twisted so the wires will be fairly robust- home despot thnn is too stiff- lots of short lengths of much better wire are available on ebay etc.

Suggest solder instead of crimp for the tap into the lighting circuit, wrap the joint with tape and wiretie the tap wire to the harness for a couple inches to act as stress-relief. There is plenty of room in the ecu tray for the automotive relay, just in front of and below the fuse block. An inline ATO fuse-holder w/ pigtails is convenient for the connection from battery + to the relay contact terminal. Ovbviously the mini and micro fuses are smaller, I was thinking it was advantageous to keep the same fuse family.

If your crimp terminals are not shrouded you can use short lengths of vacuum hose to cover them. That done, all four of the relay terminals are covered and insulated.
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