I don't think where you sit will make a huge difference in the speed wobbles. The wobbles are a needed and expected result of a rigid grip on the bars. The front end will do that regardless of the amount of weight transfer. Once there is enough rearward weight transfer from acceleration and a rigid grip on the bars is acquired, tank slappers are soon to ensue.
As for sag, no they do not need to be equal. The numbers provided are just a window for an ideal goal. The easiest way to tell if you need more or less sag on the front is to use a zip tie around the fork leg. When the fork compresses it will push the zip tie down. Checking it after a SPIRITED ride will show how much fork travel you are using. A good goal is to set sag so that you use most all of the travel. So you should be looking for the zip tie to stop with between 1/4" & 1/2" left of possible travel. If there is less than 1/4" you need to add pre load and if you have more than 1/2" you need to reduce pre load. The rear is a little more tricky and requires you to go more with feedback rather than hard numbers. I try to err to the stiff side for better turn in. The sacrifice is a little less rear grip. Being in the general sag window is pretty good if the rear spring is good for your weight. In either case sag should be set properly and for best feel before any compression and rebound damping knobs are twisted.
As for running track compression and rebound settings on the street, there is no real difference. The settings meant for the street are more for comfort and a compliant predictable machine. The track settings are more for best handling and not focused on rider comfort. Track settings on the street are just fine, the only difference is the ride will not be as plush or cushy. I would shy away from running street settings at the track however. Especially if you are a faster street rider. There always seems to be a false sense of security with a plush ride. There is less feedback so traction feel is diminished with street settings.
Compression be it high or low speed is more of a comfort thing. It is the least important setting and has only a couple of side effects if it is wrong. To hard and the bike will have chatter and turn in will not be as good. The up side is that to stiff a compression setting will yield better braking results. To soft a compression setting will make the bike TOO TWITCHY on turn in and braking will be diminished. The up side to too soft a compression setting is that chatter is less likely. This is for the front.
The rear is a little different but still not as important as a good rebound setting. Basically too soft and the bike can run wide out of turns and traction will do a slip and grab thing instead of just sliding. Too hard and rear tire traction will just plain suck and turn in may be too twitchy.
Rebound should be thought of as fast or slow instead of hard or soft like compression. Too fast a rebound allows the forks or shock to de-compress too quickly, and too slow will not allow the forks or shock to de-compress fast enough. The ideal setting is one that is as fast as can be with good bike control. The bike should not wallow and pogo when bumps are hit mid turn and the bike should have good attitude and inspire confidence any other time. Too fast or too slow will effect both of those goals. Slower rebound increases confidence because of reduced feedback through the bike, but also make the bike more likely to loose traction. Faster rebound increases feedback which can reduce rider confidence and will not have as much bike attitude control. Again this goes for both front and rear.
I try to fix the problems first before blaming things on the machine. We as riders are problems for the machine. So we usually need to look at ourselves first before we try and FIX THE BIKE. Good riding habits will reduce handling issues and make it much easier to dial the bike in when a change is truly needed.
