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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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In you last set of pics, you didn’t show the crank, but if the crank is lined up to the split line, you are good. The variance in the cam marks is probably just a bit of stretch in the chain.
 

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2004 R6 Liquid Silver and Black Flames
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Cam is fine. If the crank is still off, slide the chain guides out of place just enough to allow you turn the crank back a tooth. Then slide the guides back into place. That should take care of it.

It is interference but there is a tad bit of room to play. (for a 16,000 RPM engine, there had better be)

Absolutely do not touch those threads with a tap. A tap is only capable of removing more thread material. Proper way, provided there's enough space to drill out a hole, is use a product like Helicoil or Ti mecert. Consult a machinist if there's any question about whether there's enough material to use a Helicoil or Timecert type product. Last thing you want is a cam-bolt backing out. If the threads were weakened, some thread-locker adhesive such as Loctite wouldn't hurt. Just a small amount is needed; not a crap load.

Sorry it's been such a headache. I know how nerve racking it can be.
I torqued all the bolts down to spec, double checked my valve clearances (everything back into spec) and installed the cylinder head cover. That's the end of that...I hope. I'll post again later on when it's all back together and I fire it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
In you last set of pics, you didn’t show the crank, but if the crank is lined up to the split line, you are good. The variance in the cam marks is probably just a bit of stretch in the chain.
I had it lined up perfectly with the crankcase mating surface and just called it. I had to get out the casino with my chips while I still had them and by that I mean the threads in the cylinder head wouldn't take much more wrenching. Anyway, it's all coming together. I got my Motion Pro throttle body sync tool in the mail the other day and painted the crankcase covers that were looking pretty rough.
 

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Its timing seems correct to me, as they already told you the marks of the cams are not 100% parallel. Do not worry.

On your question about what would happen if those marks were out, it would mean that the engine is not synchronized, the valves would close and open badly, at the wrong time.

The pistons would hit the valves and possibly damage them, I suppose the pistons and some components would also take some damage, but not as much as the valves.

On the threads of the screws, before mounting I put engine oil on the threads, it affects the tightening torque but at least it does not damage the inner threads so much.

What do you mean by the casino? what does all that have to do with it?

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If you don't have it, I think it will be very difficult for you to adjust the throttle body properly.

Regards.
 

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2 wheels > 4 wheels
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I haven't read all the above posts, so not sure if anyone has already said this:

The way I did it was - for every cylinder, I made sure that the lobes are pointing away from each other AND the tiny I & E markings on the cam sprockets are lined up with something horizontal or vertical.
 

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2004 R6 Liquid Silver and Black Flames
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
In you last set of pics, you didn’t show the crank, but if the crank is lined up to the split line, you are good. The variance in the cam marks is probably just a bit of stretch in the chain.
I had it lined up perfectly with the crankcase mating surface and just called it. I had to get out the casino with my chips while I still had them and by that I mean the threads in the cylinder head wouldn't take much more wrenching. Anyway, it's all coming together. I got my Motion Pro throttle body sync tool in the mail the other day and painted the crankcase covers that were looking pretty rough.
Its timing seems correct to me, as they already told you the marks of the cams are not 100% parallel. Do not worry.

On your question about what would happen if those marks were out, it would mean that the engine is not synchronized, the valves would close and open badly, at the wrong time.

The pistons would hit the valves and possibly damage them, I suppose the pistons and some components would also take some damage, but not as much as the valves.

On the threads of the screws, before mounting I put engine oil on the threads, it affects the tightening torque but at least it does not damage the inner threads so much.

What do you mean by the casino? what does all that have to do with it?

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If you don't have it, I think it will be very difficult for you to adjust the throttle body properly.

Regards.
Haha, the casino thing is just a saying. I said it because I felt like I was gambling if I took the cam caps off again. Even though I was lubricating the cap bolts with engine oil, installing the caps and then uninstalling them was starting to affect the threads in the cylinder head. I was seeing little specs of aluminum in the oil when I would remove the cap bolts.

Anyway, it worked out. I had it running the other day.

Yes, I have a vacuum gauge. A brand called MotionPro makes a gauge. I bought that with some oil and a filter last week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
It works. It was a process and a half but I got it done. Thank you for all the help 8Ball, Intuit and jlcr6. Onto adjusting the idle, syncing throttle bodies and adjusting cables now.
 
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