[J-O]

What's up guys. Here's the deal. I want to build myself a nice little toy, a 2007 R6r as a trackbike only. I have other bikes for the street so this R6 would be only for track purpose. I have been on the track a couple times with different bikes.
It will be build during winter so I am not In a rush, I will probably also do a building thread.
I need all of your knowledgable input to help me. I have a little list of stuff to do so feel free to add or comment my list.
The bike is a street bike right now so I start from ground up.

PS. I don't want to touch the internals for now

SUSPENSION/HANDLING

-Brake pads
-Stainless brake lines
-Keep OEM caliper
-Keep OEM rotors???

-Front fork rebuild
-Rear shock rebuild? change?
-Scotts or Ohlins damper. I have both In hand. just not decided which one

-Oem clip-on. remove handle switch??
-Adjustable Rearset? Vortex, Attack, Sato, Gilles..... what's most commun at the track so If I break anything I could ask for help with replacement parts

MECHANICAL/ELECTRONICS

-Chain..520..?
-Sprockets..how many tooth front/rear??
-Hi flow air filter.. K.N? BMC?
-Full exhaust line
-Power commander
-Gear indicator ( in the cluster)

FRAME PROTECTION

-crash kit.frame slider axle slider etc... more Is the better I guess
-Racing bodywork. Sharkskinz. www.oppracing.com



That is pretty much what I think of right now.
Any suggestion, comments, advice, insults??

Thanks for the input

 

[BTMendenhall]

So, do you just have tons of money or what?

Also, Ohlins and Scotts dampers are the same for all intents and purposes.

 

[Dieselboy]

Safety wire pliers/wire.

 

[Bergster]

Honestly, your best bet is to buy a used track bike. For a full blown track bike build ground up, expect to shell out at minimum $4,000-$6,000 on mods alone. Suspension (forks, shock) alone will run you almost $3,000 if you buy brand new.

You can pick up a 07+ R6 full blown track bike w/all the bells and whistles for $6,000-$8,000.

Good place to start is the WERA forum, lots of track bikes go up for sale daily on there.

If you're set in stone building your own, check on here and WERA daily for used parts to cut costs vs. buying brand new goodies.

 

[c7fx]

brake pads can use OEM
rotors, calipers OEM
braided front brake lines
race tires bridgestones 003 or Ntecs Dunlops
suspension set to weight TTX ohlins rear 20mm front very nice
rear sets woodcrafts are good
frame sliders woodcraft also
pitbull damper awesome
oem clip-ons till you crash
stock 525 is fine you can always get extra sprockets or go the 520 route not a big deal
stock air filter is all you need great airflow
pipe full ti leo or Graves
powercommander and shifter
pair block off's
sharks bodywork is the best worth the money
pitbull trailer restraints worth the money
slipper clutch mod

I think thats it

 

[Dieselboy]

brake pads can use OEM
rotors, calipers OEM
braided front brake lines
race tires bridgestones 003 or Ntecs Dunlops
suspension set to weight TTX ohlins rear 20mm front very nice
rear sets woodcrafts are good
frame sliders woodcraft also
pitbull damper awesome
oem clip-ons till you crash
stock 525 is fine you can always get extra sprockets or go the 520 route not a big deal
stock air filter is all you need great airflow
pipe full ti leo or Graves
powercommander and shifter
pair block off's
sharks bodywork is the best worth the money
pitbull trailer restraints worth the money
slipper clutch mod

I think thats it

The Vesrah RJL's offer so much more bite, and it's probably the cheapest mod of the items he has listed.

 

[DanQ]

The OEM suspension is not really that bad in my opinion. Get it set for your weight and ride it for a year, keeping track of what changes get made.

But as stated, look at buying a track bike that's already done. It will save you cash and a lot of work.

 

[J-O]

So, do you just have tons of money or what?

Also, Ohlins and Scotts dampers are the same for all intents and purposes.

Not at all man!! haha I eat a lot of kraft dinner and no girlfriend so no fancy shoes or stuff to buy
I already have the scotts with the mount for an R6 and I have an Ohlins with mount as well for an R6. I am just not decided which one i'll take for track use. I might go with the scotts since I believe it is less vulnerable in case of a crash.

Safety wire pliers/wire.

only for trackdays.... here it is not mandatory unless I sign for a real race. which won't probably happen. but we never know

The OEM suspension is not really that bad in my opinion. Get it set for your weight and ride it for a year, keeping track of what changes get made.

But as stated, look at buying a track bike that's already done. It will save you cash and a lot of work.

I like the OEM suspension also. I will keep the front. only have the fluid changed and rebuild. I will however change the rear for something a little better.

We'll I already have the bike so that's why I don't see the point of buying a trackbike already built.
I mean i'll have to sell my bike and than buy another bike.
I think I'm better to build mine... time and tools and stuff are not a problem. money is haha.
And there is not a lot of trackbike for sale around here.
I honestly think with 4k I will be able to build a trackbike that is really competitive.
I doubt that selling my bike and buying another one I would be able to save more than 2k.

 

[Thinkmoto]

Safety wire pliers/wire.

Around here that is only necessary in the expert class if you are actually racing for your oil filter and drain plug.

To the OP better brake pads, tires, track glass and seat time. Also get the stock suspension tweaked at the track. Just my .02

 

[st00pid]

Safety wiring the bike just for peace of mind. Nothing is going to chap your ass more than paying money for the track day. Looking forward for it for weeks. Do one session and lose a bolt, oil cap, ect and your day is over with just like that.

If you're going to open up the suspension might as well just drop some Ohlins 30mm cartridges and get a TTX rear shock

Do you have good track gear? ie 1 piece, boots, gloves, helmet, chest protector/back protector ect? Make sure you budget yourself for good fiting gear. It will make a difference.

 

[DanQ]

Safety wiring the bike just for peace of mind. Nothing is going to chap your ass more than paying money for the track day. Looking forward for it for weeks. Do one session and lose a bolt, oil cap, ect and your day is over with just like that.

If you're going to open up the suspension might as well just drop some Ohlins 30mm cartridges and get a TTX rear shock

Do you have good track gear? ie 1 piece, boots, gloves, helmet, chest protector/back protector ect? Make sure you budget yourself for good fiting gear. It will make a difference.

I'd have to disagree with the bold portion of your post. Normal service of components costs about $150 for forks and $150 for a shock. The cartridges and TTX would run in the thousands. And they will need servicing as well.

Very sound advice on the safety wiring though! I think every bike that goes on the track should be safety wired. Don't know how many sessions I've stopped in on the track marshal to tell him about debris.

 

[ASTEBBS]

you need this bike....
$3800
http://highperformancecrew.com/showthread.php?t=12353

 

[Paytheon]

I'd have to disagree with the bold portion of your post. Normal service of components costs about $150 for forks and $150 for a shock. The cartridges and TTX would run in the thousands. And they will need servicing as well.

Very sound advice on the safety wiring though! I think every bike that goes on the track should be safety wired. Don't know how many sessions I've stopped in on the track marshal to tell him about debris.

I have to agree with Dan on the suspension and safety wire. If you are new to tracking just have your stock suspension set and you will be good for awhile. I have 2 R6 and both have the same exact suspension setup. I run Ohlin TTX for the rear shock and have had both front forks rebuilt by GP Suspension to use cartridges, sprung and valved for my weight. The bike was then machine suspension tuned for the bike, tires and suspension. Works great if you go fast. But probably not a necessity if you are just starting out on the track. As for safety wiring your bike....do it if for nothing more than safety.

 

[Jason D]

From my experience buy LOTS of track time and tires!


The biggest thing that makes me faster is seat time! I get better every day I spend at the track.


As far as the bike and equipment the tires are what keep you planted to the ground so as long as your not a huge/tiny guy then just get the suspension setup at the track by the local suspension shop that should be there and just ride! Now if you either realy light or heavy then you might want to at least respring to your weight.



But again even if you dont touch the bike track time is going to be the single most important thing in getting faster in my opinion.

 

[J-O]

you need this bike....
$3800
http://highperformancecrew.com/showthread.php?t=12353

Taht would be awesome and the price is good. But it is 4000 miles away from me.........

I have to agree with Dan on the suspension and safety wire. If you are new to tracking just have your stock suspension set and you will be good for awhile. I have 2 R6 and both have the same exact suspension setup. I run Ohlin TTX for the rear shock and have had both front forks rebuilt by GP Suspension to use cartridges, sprung and valved for my weight. The bike was then machine suspension tuned for the bike, tires and suspension. Works great if you go fast. But probably not a necessity if you are just starting out on the track. As for safety wiring your bike....do it if for nothing more than safety.

I'll take your advice for SAFETY WIRING. like you said at least for peace of mind and safety for all riders!!
as for suspension I won't change the front. I'll have It rebuild. But i'll change the rear for sure.!!

From my experience buy LOTS of track time and tires!
The biggest thing that makes me faster is seat time! I get better every day I spend at the track.
As far as the bike and equipment the tires are what keep you planted to the ground so as long as your not a huge/tiny guy then just get the suspension setup at the track by the local suspension shop that should be there and just ride! Now if you either realy light or heavy then you might want to at least respring to your weight.
But again even if you dont touch the bike track time is going to be the single most important thing in getting faster in my opinion.

Let's get it straight guys. I am happy with all your answes and all but don't get me wrong. I am not new to trackdays at all. It's just I always did trackdays with my street bikes..... I want to have a trackbike for peace of mind so If I crash It I can still ride on the street.
I now ride a 2004 Yamaha R1 and 2008 ZX6 on the street. Those are the bike I take to the track when I go.

As for my equipment. I have FULL GEAR. helmet, suit, BP. long gloves boots..all that is required for the track.

Tires... I run Pirelli Diablo Supercorsa SC1 front and SC3 rear

Tracktime. I go whenever I can........


So thank you all for your comments but really the thread Is more about the bike set-up and build. I wanted to know what you guys, racers or steady trackriders, use to be competitive against other trackriders.

 

[CWellman]

How much you want for that ohlins steering damer? lol

 

[luke geis]

Do you want to race or do you want to go to track days? To be competitive you just gotta be a good rider. All the aftermarket stuff doesn't make you faster. Clip on's, rearsets, sprockets and race body work won't make you any faster.

As for what your goals are you kinda have to evaluate where you are currently at. If you are running middle of the pack in the middle speed group, you will look more like a tool when you roll out your fully race preped machine. If you are already in the fastest pace group you only need to consider what is keeping you from going faster. I was running in the fastest group with a bike that was still street legal for a year. I completely striped the bike and made it super stock class legal and only lost 5 or so seconds so far. So I can tell you that all that money doesn't buy speed.

I would consider just getting bodywork for now. You may be able to sell the stock stuff and headlight for enough to buy the race work. I would then just buy as I go along. Getting the forks and shock rebuilt and sprung for your weight with stock components is reasonable in price and needs to be done anyway. That will set you back about $400. This will allow you to start getting a real feel for the bike. As you get faster, wearable items such as brakes, chains and sprockets can be replaced with the racier stuff. As you get into the fastest group you will be more interested in power producing items like exhaust and PCV or whatnot. You will likely crash at some point or another so keep the stock parts as long as you can so that when you do crash it's no big deal. Just buy the aftermarket parts and move on. You already paid for the stock stuff. There is no point in spending wads of cash for a track bike that you want to be able to convert back into a street bike. It does not compute. The track bike usually dies on the track, or gets sold to someone. It doesn't pull double duty for very long.

My experience is not as vast as others, but is very good. I am running near race pace on a superstock legal machine. That means I am using only the most basic of upgrades. I have been track riding for 3-4 years and I only ride the track now. I go to the track at least once a month and have been for the last 2-3 years. What I have learned is that you can spend a lot of money on parts and not loose any time. Or you can just ride the bike and learn to make it fast.

 

[Thinkmoto]

^^^That's a fact! Until you can ride your bike to its fullest capabilities all the bolt ons are money burnt.

And yes I'm a hypocrite for saying that, as I have the extra goodies too.