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So i noticed a lot of people dont take the bike past 80mph this and that...

I took the bike to 120mph at about 450miles on it. I redlined it probably 5 times total and i kept the RPMS at different ranges all the way thru the break in period. I think its best to push the engine slowly to the top during break in. What is the purpose of only going 80 and never bringing the revs that high? Are you telling me that out of the blue, once the engine hits 600 miles its full funtional and now all of a sudden you can take it to redline...you guys are nuts!!! It makes no difference as long as you do it slowely and but always increase the revs on the bike...
 

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There are tons of OPINIONS on how to break these things in.

You did yours the way you wanted to. I rode mine like I stole it, with less than a mile on the odo. They'll both probably last long enough to get either totaled off or sold for a re-vamped model.

Meh. Congrats on your shiny new R6.


Heres some light reading that may or may not make you sweat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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Mr. B (Florida Boy)
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:confused: point?
 

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There are tons of OPINIONS on how to break these things in.

You did yours the way you wanted to. I rode mine like I stole it, with less than a mile on the odo. They'll both probably last long enough to get either totaled off or sold for a re-vamped model.

Meh. Congrats on your shiny new R6.


Heres some light reading that may or may not make you sweat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
+1 on the "run it hard" break in procedure. haven't had a problem with it, been using this method (or least some variation of it) for years. good luck with whatever you choose.

gary
 

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Hey Guy
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The break in period is designed to let the rings seat before you murder it. If they dont seat properly, there will be blow-by in the cylinder. There's a chance that if you run a compression leak-down it wont be as high as someone that broke their motor in properly.
Then again, Yamaha redlines every motor to test it before they sell it.
 

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So in other words, "I don't understand engine break-in, so it must not be necessary". Putting my personal opinions on the topic aside, that is one of the worst attempts at logic I've ever seen. By all means, do what you want to your bike, but at least back it up with sound reasoning.
 

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I eat YOUR MOM
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i've never owned a brand new bike before, but soon i will.
what does the dealer or yamaha have to say about proper break in procedure?????
 

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I got an R6000
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I was told to keep it under 10 grand by the dealer for the first 600 miles then first service then to slowly get it up to red line. As far as the logic behind it I dont know...I just trust the guy whose job it is to sell it to me.
 

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my R6 ate a bus
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8-10k till 600 and try to stay under 12k until 1000mile mark, after that let her rip. Its all in the owners manual if people actually read...ahemm ar444, and also why its important to break in the bike.


Did you know that 95% of the threads created by you, that the answers you seek are in the owners manual or service manual.... just saying.
 

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Heres some light reading that may or may not make you sweat.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
+1 to running it hard like Motoman says. But change the oil after about 20 miles when you do it. Next bike I buy will be broken in per motoman instructions.

Dealer / mfg'er is never going to say to go out and immediately rev it up - good way to open yourself up to liability if you tell noobs / first-timers to wind it up right off the bat.
 

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Now you see me...
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does anyone in here understand metallurgy? with technology as grand as it is, break-in isn't as important as it was 50 yrs ago. the metals are more pure and the tolerances are finer. but an engine doesn't fit together perfect, at least not on the microscopic level. break-in periods are a method of getting all the parts to fit together smoothly through a controlled wear process. also the pieces need to wear at different temperatures, as metal expands when it heats ESPECIALLY TITANIUM. if you run like a bat out of hell from the factory you are gonna break in the engine no doubt, but because everything isn't perfect (some places are tight and others are loose) you are gonna cause excessive wear on certain parts. you almost have to "temper" the engine by gradually putting it under more load every running cycle. this is the theory as i understand it, but hey if you want to pay 9 grand for a bike and not follow the manufacturers suggestion (who has 50+ yrs experience with motorcycles), that's your money, don't bad mouth yamahas when you blow an engine or burn out a clutch or your bike doesnt make it past 20k miles.
 

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I ride bitches year round
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Dealer / mfg'er is never going to say to go out and immediately rev it up - good way to open yourself up to liability if you tell noobs / first-timers to wind it up right off the bat.
That is the only good reason I have ever seen as to why manufacturers do not endorse the 'hard break in'. I personally am willing to sacrifice a 2% power loss to see my engines run 50% longer . . .
 

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Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Must be nice to afford NINE f**king dyno runs.
 

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I personally am willing to sacrifice a 2% power loss to see my engines run 50% longer . . .

If you buy into motoman's argument (and I know everyone doesn't), he says the exact opposite...

"Ironically, an "easy break in" is not at all what it seems. By trying to "protect" the engine, the exact opposite happens, as leaky rings continue to contaminate your engine oil for the rest of the life of your engine !!"

"Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???

A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.
Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an
"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.
Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal."
 
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