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My R6 eats terrorists
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I just got a set of 5000k HIDs installed on my 05. I start the bike and nothing comes on... when I flip on the high beams, the high beams come on great (the HID is only installed on low beams). When I flip the high beams off, the HIDs in the low beams will flicker very fast like a strobe for about 3 seconds as well as the High beams will remain on, just very dim. After about 3 seconds, it all shuts off.

I was doing some research on the forum and saw that a lot of people that had this problem installed a relay. I installed a relay last night and absolutely nothing changed. Still the same symptoms all around. Could it be that I have bad ballasts? What are the chances that I would have two bad ballasts at the same time?

Please dont tell me to send the kit back and buy from someone else because I'm not doing it. Only useful, helpful advice please. Thanks in advance
 

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Just Burnin Time
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2,220 Posts
check the connections on the inside of the dust cap where you put the two prongs into the old piece that plugged into the bulb... if that makes sense...

Mine was all ****ed for a miunte but i played with those and they work great now.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
well there is a dual headlight conversion kit on it so the low beams are really inaccessible. Is that what you're talking about? the wires that connect to the low beams? The lights have come on for a few seconds at at time so this tells me there is a good connection, just not enough juice to keep them on.
 

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Just Burnin Time
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2,220 Posts
dual light meaning two lows and two highs or??

I am not sure, just thought id tell you what i experienced doing mine. I hope you dont have bad ballast and just weak connection somewhere. Did you call the vendor?
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
yes its a dual low beam (HIDs) and dual high beam. I got rid of the gay one sided low beam... looks much better now. The low beams are H3 and high beams are H7. Also got red angel eyes and turn signals integrated into the headlight assy.
 

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Registered
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You said you are powering the lights directly from the battery with a relay? This should fix the problem. I believe what is happening is the R6 bikes have a Daytime Running Light system that needs to be disabled.

There are only 2 good reasons why the HID's would flicker (other than having a bad kit).

1- There is a Daytime Running Light installed which is not providing enough power to the headlight (test this with a multi-meter at the wire harness for the bulb, and see what the voltage is. It should be at least 12V). I'm pretty sure this is the problem you have.

2- There is a computer diagnostic system that will look for a 55W current draw from the headlights. This is common on Mercedes, Audi, BMW, and some newer cars. The solution for this is to install our Lite Eyes 55W HID harness adapter. I'm pretty sure this is not the problem you have.

If number 1 is the problem, install a relay to turn on when the headlights are on, and pull power directly from the battery. Or, disable the Daytime Running Lights (I don't know how, you'll have to look that up).
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I dont think either of those are the problem. I do not have daytime running lights on the bike, I have already installed a switch so that the relay going to the headlight is on only when the switch is on, and there is 13.8v going into the relay, the headlights, and the ballasts.
 

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Shiney up Rubber down
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4,936 Posts
Your problem with the low beam is that you're running an H3. Both bulbs are supposed to be H 7's Single Beams.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the comments guys. The polarity is correct. The headlights do come on,but on for about 3 seconds at a time so I'm certain its a power issue. The bulbs are H3's because of the conversion kit I got. It put H3's as dual low beams and the H7's are the high beams on the outside.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
asdfjklm -- why would running H3s be the problem? I know of a lot of people that use this bulb when doing the dual headlight conversion. Obviously you know something I dont, which is a common occurence since I'm fairly new at this. Thanks your help
 

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Shiney up Rubber down
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Thanks for the comments guys. The polarity is correct. The headlights do come on,but on for about 3 seconds at a time so I'm certain its a power issue. The bulbs are H3's because of the conversion kit I got. It put H3's as dual low beams and the H7's are the high beams on the outside.
asdfjklm -- why would running H3s be the problem? I know of a lot of people that use this bulb when doing the dual headlight conversion. Obviously you know something I dont, which is a common occurence since I'm fairly new at this. Thanks your help

You put an H 3 bulb into an H 7 bulb harness. It will fit, but more than likely it will not "work" properly. I know that our bikes Come with an H 7 bulb in them to begin with. So, you chaning your bulb to an H 3... That is not the intended bulb for this bike. You should send back your H 3 kit, and get the H 7 Kit that you need.

Edited because I went back and read everything again.

Okay... So I read that you DO have the two low two high convesion.

Now. I don't know who did the kit for you, but you need to get in touch with them an find out exactly what they did to your headlight housing, and what you need to do to get your headlights to work properly. Obviously THEY know how to make them work.

Here I was thinking that you were just plugging an H3 bulb into an H 7 harness, and I was incorrect, I apologize, I needed to read a little deeper. Don't do that just yet. First figure out what it is you REALLY need to do so that your stuff works, call the guy who assesmbled your dual housing, and see what he says. HE built it, so HE should know what to do.

Sorry about MY confusion. let us know how it works out. (by the way... make sure to go back and see exactly what bulb you pulled out of the housing before you put the HID's into the bike, that may help you out. He could have used H 7's, and the problem might be that simple.

let us know.
 

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pilot8604, can I make a suggestion? Plug the HID kit directly to the battery (or another 12V source), and see if they function normally. If they do, then the HID kit is not the problem, but something in the wiring, or the power that is going to the headlight harness.

This way, you can diagnose the problem, and eliminate possibilities to narrow down the actual problem.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I think tapping directly into the battery is what I accomplished by putting in the relay... am I wrong? I've sent the ballasts back to the manufacturer for inspection because I'm pretty sure thats the problem. I'll find out later this week when I get them back if that solved it. If not, I'll be back on here for some much needed help. Thanks for all your help everyone
 

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My R6 eats Chuck Norris
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2,407 Posts
I think tapping directly into the battery is what I accomplished by putting in the relay... am I wrong? I've sent the ballasts back to the manufacturer for inspection because I'm pretty sure thats the problem. I'll find out later this week when I get them back if that solved it. If not, I'll be back on here for some much needed help. Thanks for all your help everyone
Yes and no.

You did tap into the battery for extra current, but the relay only RELAYS the signal from the source with more current from the battery... if you are tapping the signal or turn-on wire from your DTRLs, you could still have flicker issue, just with more current. I agree with LiteEyes... you can connect to the battery simply by disconnecting the wire going to your headlight (signal or turn-on wire) and connect it manually (by hand, just for testing) directly to the battery. If they stay on, your wiring is the problem..

Next question... when the conversion from one low/high to duals, what was done? If the ballasts are still getting "half" a signal, you may have issues, or if the conversion was done without a digital ballast in mind, maybe you have a ground loop issue.

Just my .02
 

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I think tapping directly into the battery is what I accomplished by putting in the relay... am I wrong? I've sent the ballasts back to the manufacturer for inspection because I'm pretty sure thats the problem. I'll find out later this week when I get them back if that solved it. If not, I'll be back on here for some much needed help. Thanks for all your help everyone
If anything, we do have plug and play relay harness that will get power directly from the battery. Its essentially plug and play, with the exception of unscrewing the battery terminal, and putting on the relay wire (with a terminal ring already attached).
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Yes and no.

You did tap into the battery for extra current, but the relay only RELAYS the signal from the source with more current from the battery... if you are tapping the signal or turn-on wire from your DTRLs, you could still have flicker issue, just with more current. I agree with LiteEyes... you can connect to the battery simply by disconnecting the wire going to your headlight (signal or turn-on wire) and connect it manually (by hand, just for testing) directly to the battery. If they stay on, your wiring is the problem..


I think we may be on to something here. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the week to get the ballasts back from the vendor anyway, but I did run the line from the relay into the DTRL so there is only power to the relay when there is power to the bike. I also ran a line from the relay to the "+" side of the ballasts. Which wire do I manually test with the battery??
From the relay I have:
1. to the positive side of the battery
2. to the negative side of the battery
3. to the DTRL
4. to the "+" wire going into the ballasts

Thanks
 

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Registered
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127 Posts
Yes and no.

You did tap into the battery for extra current, but the relay only RELAYS the signal from the source with more current from the battery... if you are tapping the signal or turn-on wire from your DTRLs, you could still have flicker issue, just with more current. I agree with LiteEyes... you can connect to the battery simply by disconnecting the wire going to your headlight (signal or turn-on wire) and connect it manually (by hand, just for testing) directly to the battery. If they stay on, your wiring is the problem..


I think we may be on to something here. I'm gonna have to wait till the end of the week to get the ballasts back from the vendor anyway, but I did run the line from the relay into the DTRL so there is only power to the relay when there is power to the bike. I also ran a line from the relay to the "+" side of the ballasts. Which wire do I manually test with the battery??
From the relay I have:
1. to the positive side of the battery
2. to the negative side of the battery
3. to the DTRL
4. to the "+" wire going into the ballasts

Thanks
I must admit, I am a little confused about your post. I'm not sure what you're asking.

To test the kit, just connect it to the battery. It should work fine.

To connect the kit with a relay, do the following (assuming you're wiring up your own relay):

- Connect the switch part of the relay to the stock harness. This will turn the relay on when your headlights turn on. Connect the ground from the headlight harness to pin 85 on the relay, and the power from the headlight harness to pin 86 on the relay.

- Connect the ballast ground wire to ground. You can do this at the battery, or at the headlight harness.

- Connect the power wire directly from a fused wire from the battery, to pin 30 of the relay. Connect pin 87 of the relay to the positive wire on the ballast.


When the headlight harness gets power, this will send power from the battery to the ballast.

I hope this helps.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Alright got the ballasts back from the manufacturer. Lights still dont work. I took a line from the positive (power) going into the ballasts straight to the battery and it didnt fix it. Does that mean its a wiring issue and not a problem with the HID kit? How do I troubleshoot/fix the wiring problem?

Heres what I have (a recap of the previous posts)
-Dual low beam/dual high beam conversion with H3 5000k HID lights in low beams and stock H7 bulbs as high beams.
-A relay connecting to positive terminal battery (30), negative terminal (85), DTRL with switch in-line (86), and to the positive wire going into the headlight harness (87).

Any insight would be appreciated.
 

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My R6 eats terrorists
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221 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I think i'm confusing myself again :hammer I ran a wire straight from the battery to the positive wire going into the headlight assembly. the lights still flicker then shut off (while they flicker, the high beams are on very dim). Does this mean the problem IS with the lights themselves? I just had the manufacturer replace the ballasts so I'm sure they're good. What else is there? the Bulbs?? If the bulbs were bad would it flicker (like a strobe)?? Any ideas how to fix this?
 
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