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Discussion Starter #1
‘04 R6. When I start the bike it screams! I have adjusted the Diag code (01) to 15, 13, 12, 8, etc., and the issues stands. I purchased a new TPS and the issue still stands. Please help!!!
 

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Did you recently change your ecu? I changed my ecu, but it was for a r6r, when the bike starts it would Rev by itself for a few Seconds then stop. Like Rev up to like 5-6 rpm for like 10 Seconds. I changed to the correct ecu and got rid of the problem

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Did you recently change your ecu? I changed my ecu, but it was for a r6r, when the bike starts it would Rev by itself for a few Seconds then stop. Like Rev up to like 5-6 rpm for like 10 Seconds. I changed to the correct ecu and got rid of the problem

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I have not changed the exu
Did you recently change your ecu? I changed my ecu, but it was for a r6r, when the bike starts it would Rev by itself for a few Seconds then stop. Like Rev up to like 5-6 rpm for like 10 Seconds. I changed to the correct ecu and got rid of the problem

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
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Completely back-off the throttle plate screw, so the throttle plates are closed. (look at where the screw meets the stop, NOT at the throttle plates) Adjust auto choke screw for a ~2,000 RPM cold idle, and after warm-up, use the throttle plate stop screw to adjust idle back to ~1,400 RPM. Auto choke cylinder and the sliding assemblies may need to be cleaned up prior. Also, it relies on cooling system pressure... so a leaky thermostat, low coolant, air the system or bad radiator cap will contribute to malfunction.

 

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By the way, when you post codes, tell us what they mean. Whatever all those nine-hundred and ninety-nine codes are, are the likely clue to the issue. I just get tired of looking them up. Please do that first and post their meaning, before following the instructions I posted above. Otherwise you'll potentially make things worse.
 

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I really appreciate the feedback. The diag code I am referring to d01 is for the TPS. I set it to 18, but still did not see a change. Sorry for not specifying the code when I submitted my posted. The only fault code I have now is 22, which is a “failure temperature sensor in the inlet/error in the inlet temperature sensor”, which I believe it is just not connected properly versus being broken, but I will check on it. My battery is practically dead at this point, as the engine will not turn over. My multimeter shows 11.5v, so now I am waiting a 5amp charger to arrive in the mail. Once I get the battery situation figured out I will try your suggested efforts with the throttle plate screw. Thank you again for the advice.
 

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If the battery is old, might be time to replace. After recharging: If the battery can't maintain proper standby voltage, or can't maintain just north of 10v (<-- memory serving) while cranking, time to replace. Running on a bad battery is hard on the charging system, and can contribute to premature failure. The fact that they do a lot of sitting, leading owners toward running on discharged and bad batteries, I suspect is why motorcycle charging systems, see a lot of failures. Batteries can also fail in a way in which, it's just low capacity. So they'll output well, maintain proper voltage, but be worthless after only a couple of minutes of running the engine fan.

So the TPS is now within minimum and maximum parameters? It will smoothly increase from minimum to max and its min/max is consistent whether hot or cold? When the intake temp sense isn't present, the ECU assumes a constant air temp of 68°F. In open loop (cold engine) I'm not sure whether the ECU uses this data until coolant temp reaches 104°F (closed loop, warm engine). But it has to be fixed anyway.

Once you've eliminated all the codes, see about cleaning up then adjusting the auto choke per prior instructions/information. Often a bunch of crud develops around that tiny piston. The sliding-assembly sometimes needs a tid-bit of TLC also.
 

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Completely back-off the throttle plate screw, so the throttle plates are closed. (look at where the screw meets the stop, NOT at the throttle plates) Adjust auto choke screw for a ~2,000 RPM cold idle, and after warm-up, use the throttle plate stop screw to adjust idle back to ~1,400 RPM. Auto choke cylinder and the sliding assemblies may need to be cleaned up prior. Also, it relies on cooling system pressure... so a leaky thermostat, low coolant, air the system or bad radiator cap will contribute to malfunction.


This worked! Thank you. I was able to locate the throttle plate screw and back it off to get it calmed down. I was amazed. I won't tell you how the screw got to where it was as this is pretty embarrassing, but I am good now. I will adjust the RPMs as mentioned above. Just hearing it run normally feels great. Thanks again.
 
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