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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just trying to get an idea on how many miles I can expect my stock chain and sprockets to last for. My bike has about 9,000 miles on it. For the most part I keep it fairly clean and well lubed, which I know is essential for long life. When I do get a new chain and sprocket set, I will probably go with a -1 +_1 for a tad bit more acceleration while keeping the rpm's at acceptable levels for highway cruising. Does anyone even keep the stock configuration come replacement time? And, how dangerous is it to have a chain break while riding?
 

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Just trying to get an idea on how many miles I can expect my stock chain and sprockets to last for. My bike has about 9,000 miles on it. For the most part I keep it fairly clean and well lubed, which I know is essential for long life. When I do get a new chain and sprocket set, I will probably go with a -1 +_1 for a tad bit more acceleration while keeping the rpm's at acceptable levels for highway cruising. Does anyone even keep the stock configuration come replacement time? And, how dangerous is it to have a chain break while riding?
:lmao VERY.

But Im interested in the orginal question as well.. Going on 15K and going to just replace it with stock config but with red chain and black sprocket.
 

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190rwhp......:eek5
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Got 24k miles outta my stock chain and sprockets....and they really wernt all that bad when I replaced them...went with another stock set out to 34k miles then went with a drive systems 520 kit (stock gearing) bout 1k miles ago...Corey from Motomummy said the kit I got should last longer than stock...so we'll see
 

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One Cheek On The Seat!
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Got 24k miles outta my stock chain and sprockets....and they really wernt all that bad when I replaced them...went with another stock set out to 34k miles then went with a drive systems 520 kit (stock gearing) bout 1k miles ago...Corey from Motomummy said the kit I got should last longer than stock...so we'll see
geez how many miles do you have on that thing??
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Just trying to get an idea on how many miles I can expect my stock chain and sprockets to last for. ....... And, how dangerous is it to have a chain break while riding?
I got 18K out of my stock set and it had a few thou left in it.

As far as a chain breaking, It's usually more EXPENSIVE than dangerous. A broken chain results in a damaged crank case about 1/2 of the time. But with stock chains (properly maintained) this shouldn't be an issue. And it shouldn't be an issue for a quality 520 chain either, should you do the conversion when it's time to "chain"ge.
 

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My R6 eats you.
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19k on mine, still looks ok. I'll probably be replacing it over the winter though.
 

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Mine stock chain and sprockets have 31k on them. My chain only has a few tight spots and the teeth on the rear sprocket are getting pretty pointy. My friends say when they ride beside me my chain looks like ~ lol. They also say it's pretty noisy. I keep it tighten within spec, cleaned, and lubed.

I plan on replacing the sprockets and doing a 520 chain conversion within a few weeks.
 

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Got 17k out of my 520 kit...currently changing it now!

My sprockets still looked good, but it was the chain that was shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And what method are you all using to determine when your chain has pretty much reached the end of it's service life? And, to the poster who stated that the crankcase could be damaged in the event of chain failure...could you please explain how? Thanks
 

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hehe...bout ready to turn over 36k...I ride 84 miles/day
:eek5

dang, talk about riding! sometimes my hands hurt from riding to work. maybe it's bad posture, or i'm thinking about it too much, or possibly my gloves.

it's only my right hand while gripping the throttle.
 

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Jesus Reigns
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hehe...bout ready to turn over 36k...I ride 84 miles/day
Trying to reach thirdgenlxi in the miles department? haha. He's got 194,000 on the F4i now. Absolutely amazing to hear about.
 

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My R6 eats you.
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And what method are you all using to determine when your chain has pretty much reached the end of it's service life?s
When it starts to sag and you can't move you're wheel any farther back, or it sags quickly after you've adjusted it. When you see links not returning to formation (pointed upward or downward). And visual signs of wear and tear.
 

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i've gotten ~6k and 13 track days so far outta my vortex aluminum F5 and DID erv3 setup. still looks REALLY good, and they will prolly last me THROUGH next season than i'll change just for fun. idk... we'll see.
 

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slow guy
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When it starts to sag and you can't move you're wheel any farther back, or it sags quickly after you've adjusted it. When you see links not returning to formation (pointed upward or downward). And visual signs of wear and tear.
Also you will have a lot of side to side sloop when the chain is removed. Keep an eye on your sprockets as well. Pointy teeth or hooked teeth=bad. Change everything as a set.
 

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And what method are you all using to determine when your chain has pretty much reached the end of it's service life?
By the fact it cant be tightened anymore since it has too many tightspots/kinks in the chain. At the moment, its as tight as it can be but still has about 3 inches of slack
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Okay, this is how I check chain slack...please tell me if I'm doing this the correct way.

First, I'll get the rear wheel off the ground. I will vertically hold up a ruler with the edge aligned with the bottom of the chain and push up on the chain and measure the distance that the bottom of the chain moved in relation to to the marks on the ruler. Then I will repeat this process a couple more times after rotating the rear wheel to measure another section of the chain. I will adjust accordingly so that the movement measure equals roughly 1.5 inches or so.

Am I doing this correctly?
 

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Jesus Reigns
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Okay, this is how I check chain slack...please tell me if I'm doing this the correct way.

First, I'll get the rear wheel off the ground. I will vertically hold up a ruler with the edge aligned with the bottom of the chain and push up on the chain and measure the distance that the bottom of the chain moved in relation to to the marks on the ruler. Then I will repeat this process a couple more times after rotating the rear wheel to measure another section of the chain. I will adjust accordingly so that the movement measure equals roughly 1.5 inches or so.

Am I doing this correctly?
Thats what i do
 
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