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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i called the dealer wer i got my bike today and ask them for a oil change, they said $210 for a oil change! i just hit the 600 mile mark and need my oil change, is that 210 right? man i need to learn how to do my oil change then! any tips how? and wat's the torque setting to install my sato sliders? thanks for the help!
 

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buy the filter and crush washer from them, go to autozone or similiar place, take the filter with you, go to the area where they keep the filter wrenches (that slide over the top of the filter like a giant socket) buy yourself some oil, remove the lower fairings, place drain pan under the drain bolt after the bike has been running for about 5-10 minutes, take out drain plug, remove filter, let drain, put some fresh oil on O ring of filter, hand tighten it, the about 1/4 turn more with the filter wrench, put crush washer onto drain bolt, and install drain bolt but do not ove tighten (See Krom). i took longer to type this up than to change my oil last time.

torque specs can be found in one of these two manuals.....

http://www.r6-forum.com/nuke/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3051

the one that is entitled wiring manual is really the service manual. I just happened to be looking thru the wiring schematic right before I renamed the file. There is one more i have to upload too and will do so soon. right click and save them to your hardrive for future reference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks again penfold! i'll just do it myself! hope everything goes well! $210 is alot of cash, i can use that to buy a new gear! but what are the things i need like wat kind of oil, oil filter, do i need a rear stand to do the oil change! sorry for all the dumb questions, its just my first time to change the oil on my bike and i want the first time to be right!
 

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BigBadBlue6 said:
i called the dealer wer i got my bike today and ask them for a oil change, they said $210 for a oil change!
Do they get you dinner and a drink before they **** you? Seriously though learn to do it yourself, you will come to learn that dealerships are a last resort. Those mechanics are there for a paycheck and could give a shit about your bike. Plus DGY here in the suburbs charges $90 an hour for the same quality work I do in my garage.
 

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Ya, JL hit it spot on. most of the guys who work these places are no more talented at this stuff than we are. They just get hella more to do it. Plus, if they drop it or scratch it or something, it always seems like everyone has to fight to get them to admit that they did it and then they always say "we're not responsible blah blah yada blah blah yada yada yada".

Best bet it to go to that shop and buy the filter or if you can wait a few days, try seein if you can source one online and see if its less with shipping. as for oil, check page 2-2 of the service manual (wiring manual since I'm an ass) and it specifies what weight oil to use (20w40). That manual also contains torque specs for everything too on page 2-18 (starting there anyways).

but for $210, they should most definitely give you a happy ending every night for a week. even then, thats something you can do like you oil so why pay for it, plus atleast you know how you like it, right?!?! :jerkit :hehe
 

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your own labor- 0 dollars
filter for R6- 15 dollars
four stroke motorcycle oil- 20 dollars
not getting reamed by the stealership- priceless

As for changing the oil, you don't need the rear stand at all. Check the R6 owner manual, it most likely has the steps on how to get the fairings off and how to change the oil. Be careful if you are taking the fairings off for the first time. Keep screws organized, be systematic, and don't force anything off if it doesn't come off easily.
 

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Crush Washer....Nothing said about one of those in the manual and when I changed my oil (twice now) have yet to see a separate washer. No leaks or anything...what's the deal and what does it do?
 

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I pay $71 to $90 for my oil changes (using Amsoil oil and filter), and that's everything--tax, labor, etc. And everyone on this forum thinks THAT'S too much! $210? My guess is it--I hope it is anyway--is for a complete 600-mile initial service. If that price includes the oil, filter, labor, etc., that's actually pretty reasonable for an initial service (they adjust everything, make sure everything isn't loose, etc.). If it's for oil/filter change ONLY, well, how do I put this politely? Boys and girls, can you say Getting it in the butt....
 

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My buddy and I both hit the 600 mile mark. We changed it ourselves, total cost was $68 / piece.
 

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My first oil change with a gallon of full sythetic Repsol, a Yamaha filter, new filter wrench that I didn't have, low profile drain pan and a new funnel cost $65. Are you sure that the $210 didn't include your valve adjust and chain check/lube/adjust? If it includes that and you aren't able to do those things yourself then the price is not that bad. If it's just the oil change then they are crazy.:fact
 

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It costs me MAYBE $25 to change my oil. Less than $10 for the oil (Rotella Synthetic) and whatever deal I can find on an oil filter, usually around $10 from the stealership. Take the bolt off, let it drain, fill it back up....yes, its that easy.

Also, unless I am racing/trackdays then I change my oil filter every other oil change.
 

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I agree with TonySanDiegoCA & IHav2P, make sure $210.00 is the price for just an oil change and not a 600 mile service. They are definitely not the same thing. I’m not sure if every 600 miles service is exactly the same but when I had mine done last August it was like a completely new bike ran better and shifted smoother than the day I picked it up, worth every penny to me. Included changing the transmission fluid, re-tuning the valves, changed the oil & filter, new coolant, Chain Adjustment, the works. Mine cost me $160.00 at the local dealership.
 

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just do it your self it is not hard at all... i have done it so many times my 7 year tells me which bolts need to come out and will there drain plug is and filter see loves to watch and help pour the oil in.
 
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