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Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
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Sort of. Not "in" the turn though. It softens up the slipper clutch action in both directions. Makes it not so abrupt as you downshift. Also, from what I understand after talking to Thermosman, it softens up the engagement as you get on the gas exiting. It reduces chases input and should make the bike feel more stable with less drastic weight transfer from front to rear.
Probably not the best description butt you get the idea.

No the springs are definitely for decel... hence why some riders take out ALL the springs and replace with washers. There is even more benefit beside the mechanical modification... you can remove engine braking in the YEC software if you really wanted to get nitty gritty.

One can also replace some of the clutch pack springs with heavier duty ones.

How all these work for the end user requires lots of experimentation & notes. :wink::wink:
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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No the springs are definitely for decel... hence why some riders take out ALL the springs and replace with washers. There is even more benefit beside the mechanical modification... you can remove engine braking in the YEC software if you really wanted to get nitty gritty.

One can also replace some of the clutch pack springs with heavier duty ones.

How all these work for the end user requires lots of experimentation & notes. :wink::wink:
Yes, they are but it also changes engagement characteristics as well during the change from decel to accel. I have a 20% reduction in engine braking now and upping that to 30-40%. It was still highly recommended to me to do the mod because of this.
 

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Thanks for the write up. First I have heard of the mod but I'm new to the R6 with my recently acquired race bike. I do find the back wheel snaking a lot compared to my previous bike (Suzuki GSX-R 1000 k5). So I guess I'm going to open up and have a look and if no mods have been done give it a go.

Question. My clutch seems "soft" so if I adjust it so it's "tighter" which I prefer it will slip at high revs on high acceleration. Where should I be looking to get this right? I'm prepared to drop money into a clutch kit if anyone thinks new plates and springs while performing this mod might be a solution?
 

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Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
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4,811 Posts
Thanks for the write up. First I have heard of the mod but I'm new to the R6 with my recently acquired race bike. I do find the back wheel snaking a lot compared to my previous bike (Suzuki GSX-R 1000 k5). So I guess I'm going to open up and have a look and if no mods have been done give it a go.

Question. My clutch seems "soft" so if I adjust it so it's "tighter" which I prefer it will slip at high revs on high acceleration. Where should I be looking to get this right? I'm prepared to drop money into a clutch kit if anyone thinks new plates and springs while performing this mod might be a solution?

you can remove all the tabs from 2 of the 3 springs. Reassemble & ride. You can add 3 high pressure springs to the clutch pack if you want firmer "grab". Or you can shim the stock springs with washers. Keep in mind alot of race starts & light slipper springs will increase clutch wear. Also you have to keep a close eye on the basket fingers. Alot of hard starts will begin to "notch" the fingers. If you change a clutch you should be dropping the oil pan & checking the oil pump/pickup.
If your start RPMs arent above 11,000 rpms...youre not getting good starts.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Great write up!

I'm told this mod helps to reduce the rear wheel from sliding around on hard corner entry (something I'm getting a lot of).

Is that right? Why does this mod make a difference?
Been a while since I have checked this thread! Glad it has been helpful to those who have searched for it. It will reduce the wheel from hopping, you will still get the rear wheel to move around under heavy braking, but thats simply because there is hardly any weight on the rear wheel when braking. This will stop the clutch from trying to engage and making the wheel hop, and it will also protect your motor under heavy downshifting. It is a very cool feeling :)

This was a good write up.
Thanks bro! Glad it helped you!
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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Did mine, but screwed something up. Clutch won't disengage. FML. I'll post back when I find out what I did wrong so hopefully no one else makes my same mistake!
Anyone else had this happen?
 

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Go fast or die slow.
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If you want the slipper clutch to really slip.
4B1-A6377-70 is the parts number for the YEC slipper clutch adjustment parts.
This contains a taller clutch hub nut and 3 shims.

Will set you back around 65$ :)
 

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Did mine a while ago. Installed 2 new springs and left the third out. Can´t wait the first trackday of summer to come...
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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Forgot to post up what I screwed up.
When I put the Clutch Boss and the Pressure Plate back together, I didn't index them properly. Oops!
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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They typically can withstand being reused. However, Murphy's Law has bitten me in the ass once or twice. They are cheap so why not pick one up.
 

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They typically can withstand being reused. However, Murphy's Law has bitten me in the ass once or twice. They are cheap so why not pick one up.
Believe it or not, but my local yamaha dealer doesn't stock any.

In fact there's none in my country, they've got to order it from Japan, and apparently they can't do that right now anyway.
 

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Motosylum Racing #132
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They typically can withstand being reused. However, Murphy's Law has bitten me in the ass once or twice. They are cheap so why not pick one up.
Believe it or not, but my local yamaha dealer doesn't stock any.

In fact there's none in my country, they've got to order it from Japan, and apparently they can't do that right now anyway.
You might want to just go and order the clutch kit. Do the mod, replace the clutch and springs as well. It comes with a gasket too.
Of course this depends on how many track miles you have.
 
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