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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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Bazzaz installation on the 2006 and 2007 Yamaha R6

well, the standard install instructions on this unit weren't the best. first of all, they REALLY needed a few pics b/c the area under the tank is a freakin' rats nest of wires/harnesses/cables/lines/etc. secondly, not everyone has a service manual, and getting one isn't always legal. thirdly, a few of these harnesses will fit into more than one location, and if done wrong, will probably ROYALLY screw your bike up. so, along the process, i decided to snap a few shots. i did forget a few of them during the install, so forgive the "afterthought" feel of a few of them (b/c i went back and snapped those as well).

what i'm going to do, is simply type out the standard Bazzaz installation instructions, and add my pics and comments to them. i hope somebody benefits from this thread, b/c it's going to take me about an hour, and i'm SURE i'll get some heat from the wife for being on a motorcycle forum while she bathes/puts the kids to bed. oh well :D

(blue is all my comments/suggestions/ideas)
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Before you start, i'd recommend you take the tank off. There are two electrical harnesses that hook up, a white one and a green one. i marked the tank side of the harness on the green one with a green marker so i would know which one went back where (they are the same style harness for both cables). then, from the left side of the bike, you'll see two "vent" hoses with metal clamps keeping them attached to the fuel pump/tank. disconnect those, as well as the fuel line (slide the "locker" out, then pinch), from the bottom of the tank, and then remove the tank and set aside. no additional gas will come out of the tank. it WILL come out a little from the fuel line that you will disconnect, as well as the white hard plastic piece on the tank. no worries... use a rag. make sure you're not indoors.

i also took off the tail section (the upper portion of it) and removed the tank mounting bracket (by the battery) as well as the aluminum piece that the main seat sits on (towards the back... attached with four 4mm allan bolts).

We strongly suggest that an experienced technician install this Bazzaz product

1) Place the Z-Fi control unit in the tail section of the bike
plug the main cable harness into the unit
2) Route the fuel harness on the left hand side of the bike
i ziptied mine in a couple spots with some of the other cables that were there to keep things clean along the way... don't get em too tight, as you'll probably need to massage the location a bit at the end.
3) Plug the Z-Fi harness in-line with the lower injectors (yellow tag on harness is cyl#1 lower injector)
the cylinders will be (obviously, i thought) #1 on the far left, and #4 on the far right). the harness has 4 staggered connections, each a little further out. this will PROBABLY be one of the easier things to figure out.



Warning! Make sure the the Z-Fi harness injector male pins make proper contact with the stock harness injector connectors.​

4) Plug the Z-Fi harness in-line with the upper injectors
this was a beyotch to find for me... so once i followed the electrical connection FROM the upper injectors down and around, i found the harness. on mine, it was at the very bottom of the left side, under the tank. it's circled in the pic below... look carefully.



Warning! Make sure the the Z-Fi harness injector male pins make proper contact with the stock harness injector connectors.​

5) Locate the throttle position sensor. Pull back the insulation and expose the (1) black/blue and the (2) blue wire. connect the blue wire the the Z-Fi harness to the blue wire on the OEM harness. now connect the gray wire from the Z-Fi harness to the black/blue wire on the OEM harness using the supplied scotchlok.
this was a booger, b/c the one you need to splice into is actually butted up RIGHT next to the right side of the frame, and the clasp that holds the harness together can't be reached with a human finger. period. i have a set of mini-pliers, and one of them is a curved-end "needle nose" or whatever, and i wedged that in and popped the latch, and pulled it apart. good luck... it's a PITA. the next thing you'll notice (at least i did) is that the first wire IS black/blue. the next one is blue and SO IS THE ONE AFTER THAT. i simply used the first blue one, directly next to the black/blue one and it worked just fine. (they have a picture showing the blue Z-Fi wire spliced into the second wire in the harness, which is the reason i went ahead with that particular "blue" wire)




Warning! Make sure the the Z-Fi harness injector male pins make proper contact with the stock harness injector connectors.​

6) Plug the Z-Fi harness in-line with the RPM sensor
this one took me a few minutes to figure out, but the "rpm sensor" is the same thing as the crank position sensor that the service manual refers to. it's on the right side of the "rat's nest" under the tank. i've circled it below. (there are two that are very simliar. the harness with two wires is the rpm/crank sensor and the other one is the neutral sensor (and the directions don't say anything about that one, but you'll still need to plug the Z-Fi harness into that one)



7) Plug the Z-Fi harness in-line with the speed sensor
it's the same vacinity as the rpm/crank sensor and the neutral sensor. it's the trianlgle shaped harness with 3 wires. you might have to dig a little for it. (below is what it will look like after you clip the Bazzaz into the circuit).
*if you have a speedoDRD or speedo healer, "it's better if the Bazzaz reads the original signal from the sensor, before it gets modified by the DRD. The Bazzaz does not alter the signal in any way, the two connectors allow us to splice into the signal without having to actually physically splice into the wire. So, one last time just to be clear: Sensor>Bazzaz>DRD>ECU." (quote, courtesy of Bazzaz)



8) Attach the ground lug from the Z-Fi to the crankcase using one of the crankcase bolts.
look in the middle of the "nest" at the VERY bottom of that area. you'll see a couple black wires bolted with a (i believe) a 4mm allan bolt to the frame. undo that (i used my t-handle wrenches) and simply slipped the ground onto the bolt, and reinserted it and tightened it back down. it's pretty straight forward. (no pics... sorry)

9) Locate the rear brake light connector (3 pin white triangle connector). Pull back the insulation to expose blue/red wire. Using supplied scotchlok now connect the switched power (red tag) from the Z-Fi harness to the blue/red wire on the OEM harness.

Warning! Proper alignment of the t-tap terminal with the scotchlok is critical for proper operation.

10) disconnect the stock O2 sensor fromt he OEM harness and leave unplugged.
follow the sensor up from the exhaust, and you'll find the harness.
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this is what mine turned out looking like after i cleaned up and organized the wiring using my zip-ties. try and get as much slack to the unit itself so you can access the mini-usb port on the harness side of the box (learned this the hard way, and am now having to come up with a solution).



overall, i would rate this install as a 7 on a 1-10 scale, with a PC3 install being a 3, and full exhaust being a 5. i would say to just take your time, and make it be neat. this is your electrical system AND your fuel system you're playing with. DON'T SCREW IT UP b/c they don't mix that well.

hope this helped/helps someone. i know i coulda used it. good luck fellas!
 

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IDADONE
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I have to say you did a good job, Now if it quits snowing you can go for a ride .Gotta love Texas weather !!!!!! I think I'll have another :drink now.
 

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Focus
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I have to say you did a good job, Now if it quits snowing you can go for a ride .Gotta love Texas weather !!!!!! I think I'll have another :drink now.
Haha, I'm just south of you, weird weather!!


Anyway, very nice write up. Just in time, ordered mine last week. Thanks!
 

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IDADONE
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Haha, I'm just south of you, weird weather!!


Anyway, very nice write up. Just in time, ordered mine last week. Thanks!
Wherebouts are you in H-town ?
 

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Iwakuni Binjo Bomber
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Good deal... I have PCIII and will try bazzaz with my next bike... maybe by then the instructions will be better.
 

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track addiction,got cash?
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thanks alot agg.if not for your write up, with the pictures(very big thank you for the pictures)i would have been ripping my hair out doing this mod.the best part was when ever i got stuck i would just come back to this writeup and it would help me find the plug i was looking for.only one i had a hard time with was the nuetral sensor, had to look around for plug with matching number of wires.but without this thread i would have been lost,thanks again took me about 3 hrs to do everything instead of who knows .now iam just waiting for my leo full exhaust, and i will then tackle the mapping.thanks for taking the time to do the writeup,very helpful.
 

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Nut 'N Bitch
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Yes thank you agg. it helped me out in a big way.

-Just a thought...for the throttle position sensor. I used a flat blade screw driver and reached from the outside of my fairings and just pressed on the latch and wiggled connection and it came right out. took 3.5 seconds.
 

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I just wanted to thank Agg2001 as well... i just finished installing it and his pictures helped a lot. The only problem I've had was getting to the TPS (atmueller08's screwdriver trick made it easier), but since I did the block off plates at the same time it wasn't so bad. Now I just have to wait for winter to be over so I can start tuning it.
 

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for the TPS, its under the airbox on the right side of the velocity stacks if you're looking at the bike sitting on the seat.

Might want to add that for those that dont have service manuals, i put mine on the wrong side haha.

but its fixed now, before it was reading TPS at 131%... constant... now its reading at 0-4% when idle. so i think i fixed it :tup:
 

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Wow, I really need some help.
I can't find the TPS and neutral sensor...

Do you need to remove the whole airbox to have access to the TPS?

I can't find the damn neutral near the RPM one.

Just wasted 2 hours looking for them :(
 

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Nut 'N Bitch
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Yes the TPS is under the airbox. Take everything off.

Your Neutral sensor is about 4 inches up and to the right of the rpm sensor. Also it has a black connector with only 1 wire going into it
 

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Nut 'N Bitch
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any chance having a link showing how to remove the airbox? I don't see much screw around or under the air filter.

Thanks
Eh nope. But its really easy. There are two screws for each throttle body, one on each side that require an allen wrench. Remove the 8 screws and your golden.
 

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THE TPS IS THE ONE ON THE RIGHT WHEN YOU ARE LOOKING DOWN LIKE YOU"RE RIDING

dont connect it to the other one.

and the neutral sensor is under the seat in the "rats nest" to the right side buried under some cables. its pressed on the frame of the bike.
 

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i found the TPS sensor on the right, but still looking for the neutral!

haha, started at 1.oo pm, almost 6.oo pm... i will find it ! someday ;p
 
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