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Discussion Starter #1
Tip sourced from R1 forum.

Add-ons, such as the Power Commander, are not required for this.

Second Gen R6 instructions are slightly different from above.
Be sure to record your original numbers, prior to making any adjustments.
Running too lean can damage your engine. Running too rich (or/and too cold) may (slowly) clog/restrict your catalytic converter. This restricts airflow.
Time from disassembly-to-adjustment-to-reassembly is five to fifteen minutes.

Tools needed:
A) 5mm Hex Bit Socket or Allen Key Wrench
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B) One small straight-pin or small safety-pin.
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C) One small gauge wire with gator clips.
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Nutshell:
Already familiar with diagnostic mode and how to enter it? You're basically just piercing and ground the Yellow/Red wire running off the ECU before entering diagnostic mode. But instead of diag mode coming up, you get a menu for adjusting an A/F parameter for engine operation.

Instructional Steps and Tips:
0) Key off. Kill switch off.
1) Pull up the main seat.
• Look between the battery negative and ECU. There is a bundle of wires coming off the ECU connector.​
• ECU's wires are easily accessible without any further disassembly.​
2) Locate the YELLOW wire with a small solid RED stripe running off the front of the ECU.
• There are two wires. Either will work.​
• See diagram below.​
3) Pierce with small straight-pin.
• Be sure not to pierce your fingers.​
4) Use alligator clip to connect the straight-pin to battery negative terminal.
5) Press and hold, SELECT and RESET buttons on the dash gague cluster.
6) Key the ignition to on position.
7) After approximately ten seconds, "CO" will display on dash.
8) Release SELECT and RESET buttons on the dash gauge cluster.
9) Press Select or Reset to change between cylinders, "C1", "C2", "C3", "C4".
• Hold Select and Reset to view current setting for C1/C2/C3/C4.​
• Press Select or Reset to increase/decrease the number.​
• Hold Select and Reset to save the current number and go back to cylinder select.​
10) After all adjustments are made,
• KEY OFF​
• REMOVE the Wire Tap​
• Reinstall the seat.​
• You're Done!​


Extra Information:
I do not know whether this works on 1st or 3rd Gen.
You can report your original and adjusted numbers here.
The numbers can be adjusted to negative or positive. How far out, don't yet know.
Knowing Min/Max may be useful in terms of calculating a percentage increase or decrease from original.
This is reportedly like changing the jets on a carburetor engine.
Adjust each cylinder by the same amount.




375848
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
My OEM numbers are:
C1 = +0
C2 = -5
C3 = -6
C4 = -3

Non-Stock Changes:
Set of Energycoil - High Performance Ignition Coils (Canadian) Ignition Coils
CR8EIX Spark Plugs (Iridium with heat range of 8 -- stock heat range is 10 with option of 9)

Values Post Initial Adjustment (10/3/2020):
C1 = +5
C2 = +0
C3 = -1
C4 = +2
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Man diag mode, this mode.. you guys got the good stuff. Damn you yami taking them out!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Reportedly we can blame the regulatory EU. Everyone having computers that all understand the same codes, prevents shops and emissions testers from having to buy a different piece of equipment for every manufacturer. (now you just have to buy a monthly subscription and rent the programs 🙄)
In 99.999% of the cases with transportation manufacturers, OBD-II was better. Yamaha just happened to be the very rare exception.

Also, if the page about timing holds up, I think you're about to get a little more envious...

From:

...and I think this makes more since than R1 explanation...
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375851
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BTW, it's easier to screw-over an engine with timing adjustments.
Best not to mess around with it at all.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Damn! Probably can't do that either since mine doesn't do diag mode. Yeah timing needs a dyno and accurate wideband tuning. I wish I could have an 87 octane fuel map to use, but I get by using daily delivered 87 in the winter if I keep the tach below 10k.
 

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don't adjust those like that. use a power commander. a bunch of us did that way back in 04 and it screwed with the bike's too much.
I started the original thread that got a lot of this started on the R6 messagnet. (i'm surpentracer) I found the Diagnostic mode by luck.

 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't do it to screw with it, but to solve a problem. It seems to have solved my issue with fouling the plugs and having to run it >200F per key cycle to keep them clean. Things are almost totally back to new/normal. Turns out I've been running too lean for some years. Should've been getting more MORE power in cooler air, but was instead noticing less; year-by-year. Would've saved me a sh*t ton of trouble, time, expense, to have known about this option. Bogging down on cold engine (>104<154F) in cold air has greatly reduced. (still a little lean apparently - will increase another point then observe for a couple more cold mornings) Idling has stabilized. With much greater consistency, slightly wondering needle has almost disappeared. Warm idle consistently sounds sssweeeeetttt and low. Low-end power is consistent and significantly greater. Hit 130 with ease at a point it'd did a little above 100 before. Power-wheelie status is back.

Timing I'm not going to screw with, as I actually do like my engine. Those that hate your engine, feel free to screw with timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
One other thing I was doing to get-by during the Winter and Spring, was adding octane. That should become a thing of the past as well.

EDIT: One other symptom to mention; on initial cold start on chili mornings, it would start at low RPM and gradually work its way up. This I suspect is merely a stiff auto-choke piston. But anyway, adding a tiny bit of throttle used to create an RPM jump. Eventually it got so adding a tiny bit of throttle just after start would instantly stall it. Post adjustment, not the case anymore.

Mechanical auto-choke tuning/tweaking info...
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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I LOVE my engine.. really LOVE it! No dicking with timing.......
 

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Tried the D60 switch on-off buat nothing happens on my 05 R6, stayed "00" all the time
The manual says D60 is E2PROM fault code display.

But I'll try to mess with the CO setup, since what i read at r6message that was so old timer, from it i got to understand that the C1 C2 C3 C4 are the number of cylinder.
 
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