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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
NOTE: The general idea works for clutch and brake cables as well.

Scoured the internet checking all kinds of forum threads, websites, videos and never found an effective solution for the R6. Here is a quick, effective solution that doesn't involve special tools or decoupling cables.

NUTSHELL: Use scissors to taper the end of the straw, so that it can be inserted between the housing and cable.

TOOLS: Phillips Size #2 Head Screw Driver (mid-length shaft), 4mm Allen Wrench, Good pair of shears/scissors; spray can of Silicon Spray Cable & Chain Lube (such as Liquid Wrench brand); At least one Straw for the Spray Can (two or more straws recommended as backups);

EDIT: See @8Ball comment re JIS Screws.

Abbreviated Instructions:
1) Grab one of your spray can's straws and using the scissors, taper the end of that straw; similar to as seen here...
onedrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!1432&v=3

2) Gently insert tapered end of straw into the gap that exists between the cable and housing.
onedrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!1435&v=3
onedrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!1433&v=3
The slit-open tapered end will of course, rest against the cable itself while the backside is against the housing.

3) Attach your spray can to the end of the straw. Maintaining down-force on that straw using the can, spray as gently as possible while using the accelerator to work the cable back and forth. The straw should stay inserted and there should be relatively little waste. The lubricant should appear at the other end in a matter of seconds.
onedrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!1434&v=3


More Detailed Instructions:
0) Remove key from ignition and note the exact position and angle of the box containing the starter and kill switches. Post service, the two halves of the box will not reassemble unless it is returned to its exact, original placement.

1) On the bottom-side of the starter and kill switch box, remove the two M8x32 Phillips Head screws. (EDIT: See @8Ball comment re JIS Screws.) A LOT of force against the screwhead may be required to avoid stripping those Phillips screws. Watch where you place your other arm and hand to avoid the possibility of stabbing yourself with the screwdriver. There's a very short wire tying the two halves together so caution is recommended. Carefully open the front part of the box as though it were hinged in the rear. Some R6s may have the short wire routed via the front instead of the rear. Post service and during reassembly, I've replaced the Phillips screws with stainless non-beveled head allen bolts. Very, little torque is required. Do not over-tighten.

2) Remove two to three 4mm Allen bolts from the plastic fairing covering the engine-side throttle assembly.
onedrive.live.com/?cid=0C43F28D3024191B&id=C43F28D3024191B!1434&v=3
You won't perform any work out of this access port and will only use it for viewing.

3) See "Abbreviated Instructions" above. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Another method aimed specifically at the clutch cable.

NutShell: Pill bottle with liquid, will drain into cable housing.

1) Place 1/4" (inside diameter) grommet over end of cable, but not yet over the cable's housing.
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2) Drill appropriately sized hole (using 27/64" drill bit in this case) in the bottom of a pill bottle.
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3) Insert bottle over the cable, then the bottle on the grommet.

4) Place assembled grommet/bottle assembly on end of cable housing.
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5) Add cable/chain Silicon Spray lubricant to pill bottle. Contents will drain into cable housing. Pulling the cable with snub-nose pliers will increase drain rate. When bubbles cease appearing, the cable housing is full.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Nice idea on a container to fill/drip feed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks. One thing to note, those pill bottles are brittle. Broke two while drilling'em; broke one more just fooling around with center-punching it. Fortunately my Dad kept more than a few empty ones to hand over.
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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OP, just a little tip: There are no Phillips head screws on a Japanese motorcycle. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. Get a set of JIS screwdrivers and you’ll never strip another screw on your bike.
376167
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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I grind the tip of an impact phillips until it fits nice and proper to JIS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Automotive tire Drink Font Automotive wheel system Logo

BTW, I don't know about other brands, but the Liquid Wrench brand "Cable and Chain Lube", should NOT be used. It is tacky, sticky; among THE worse things I could've put in those lines.

Instead, use the "Silicon Spray". It does not collect soot, grime. It is a lubricant that does not harm plastics or rubber-like materials. It repels water.
Bottle Product Liquid Drink Font
 

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Ran across it in the manual for my '08 r1. A lot of people say you shouldn't use it, but, it has been just fine for me.
 

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hypodermic needle to inject down into the sheath alongside the cable works too.. just have to go a bit slow
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's a good idea @gpounce . The stiff metal and easily controlled injection would be way better.

They don't have the slit-opening like a hypodermic needle or the cut straw, but I do have some needles that I used with printer cartridges. I could probably slot the tip with a file or grinder.
 

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That's a good idea @gpounce . The stiff metal and easily controlled injection would be way better.

They don't have the slit-opening like a hypodermic needle or the cut straw, but I do have some needles that I used with printer cartridges. I could probably slot the tip with a file or grinder.
Or slip the needle off and use some silicone rubber.

I keep some ag syringes in the shop for lubing various things. They are great.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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The ones at farm supply without needles work great for bearing grease and assembly lube. And are an inch id by about 4in.
 
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small.ones are ok with grease if you cut the needle length by half and grip the syringe barrel by hand and press the plunger with thumb.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Like the far right. 100 or 300ml size if memory serves. A needle would be precision though.
 
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