Sounds about right. I just put Engine Ice in mine. Dropped it a cpl degrees. Also, an ECU reflash can adjust the temp at which the fan comes on. Getting mine done now, and will have the fan kick on at 205.
Sounds like you don't have a problem. As long as it's working properly, the stock cooling system is plenty capable of maintaining proper operating temperatures. And no, changing out hoses isn't going to do anything to effect that.
Engine Ice would be the cheapest, silicone hoses don't dissipate heat but are only a means of withstanding higher temperatures to prevent warping/melting (i.e. hoses close to the exhaust header or engine block). But it's not much of an issue for modern engine designs now-a-days.
check your air to fuel ratio on your fuel map. You could richen the map up a tad in some places, as that will lower temps on track a bit (may loose a tiny amount of hp).
212F on track is not horrible. It's not uncommon to see 100c (212f) while racing in the hot months here in FL.
I would leave the thermostat in. Check some obvious stuff too, like the condition of your radiator fins.
As stated above, a larger radiator is VERY expensive, and just shouldn't be needed ..
just so its not unnoticed... going from standard mixed glycol (50/50) to engine ice nets some cooling because engine ice is premixed not because its that much better of a coolant. Engine ice is still glycol based.
The trick in high humidity/temp environments is to reduce the glycol content so your radiator can shed heat effectively. I would be be paying attention to oil temps before coolant temps anyways. Thats your primary cooling fluid. :secret
Plumbing in an auxillary radiator is not too difficult. If your oil temps are sky high...youre never going to cool it down without an auxillary cooler. There is a water cooled one already... may just need to increase capacity. You can also increase the pressure of the radiator cap.