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Sometimes..........
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, here is a detailed HOW TO on installing the WoodCraft Case Covers. The installation was done on my 2012 R6….I believe the process should be the same for 08-12 models…don’t quote me on that though..also…this write up is to be used as a guide…it is not intended to be used as a professional reference material…therefore…if you fcuk up…don’t blame me, lol.


UPDATE: 12/31/12
The torx bolts in the stator cover are a one time use bolt. It is recommended that you replace the three torx bolts when you perform this upgrade. I re-used mine on my 2012 and now have more than 12k miles on the case covers with no issues at all. I did clean and reinstall the torx bolts using red loctite. It's your decision but it is recommended that you replace the old torx bolts with new ones.

Here is a pic of EVERYTHING you will need to complete this install. IF YOU DO NOT have all of the following materials…DO NOT ATTEMPT THE INSTALL. Gather the materials first and then proceed with the installation.
IMPORTANT: You will need a torx bit…for T30's...once you crack open the ignition cover…the alien looking magnet will be attached to the cover by three torx bolts, the electrical cable will have a bracket that is held in place by another torx bolt as well….so a total of FOUR torx bolts will be removed from the ignition cover.
Here’s a pic of the four torx bolts and the tools needed. Also…a metal putty knife works better than my plastic one, lol.
Tools:
-Putty knife
-Red Loctite
-Silicone Gasket Sealant
-Brake Cleaner
-Torx bit for T30's
-4,8,10 MM Allen T-handles (I double check sizes when I get home)


Stator cover / LHS cover Install:
IMPORTANT: USE A CATCH MAT OR CARBOARD TO CATCH ANY DRIPPING OIL. BOTH SIDES WILL DRIP OIL…ESPECIIALLY THE IGNITION COVER…ABOUT 200mL1. Remove all of the retaining bolts.
2. Remove the old gasket and using your putty knife…start removing the residue left from the old gasket.
Make sure you completely remove all of the residue….Then using your brake cleaner…spray some cleaner unto a microfiber towel and wipe the mating surfaces clean.

IMPORTANT: APPLYING SILICONE SEALANT IS PERSONAL PREFERENCE…BUT….BBBUUTTT WOODCRAFT DOES RECOMMEND APPLYING SILICONE SEALANT OVER THE RUBBER GROMET THAT GUIDES THE ELECTRICAL WIRES INTO THE CASE. I went a little further and performed the following steps.
3. Next, you will install the skid plate unto the case cover. YOU MUST APPLY RED LOCTITE TO EACH OF THE BOLTS HOLDTING THE SKID PLATE. YOU MUST!! Snug the bolts down…don’t over-due it though.
4. Once the mating surface is clean…using your silicone gasket sealant….and finger…apply some small, but sufficient, amount of silicone along the mating surface of the case.
5. After applying the silicone sealant to the case…install the NEW gasket over the silicone.
6. Next, apply some silicone sealant to the mating surface of the cover
7. Before proceeding …makes sure there aren’t any huge pieces of silicone trying to make its way inside the case. Next, line up the cover so that it slides into the guides inside the case...next, apply a dab of RED LOCTITE on each retaining bolt and hand tighten them. DON’T FORGET TO PLACE THE BRACKET HOLDING THE CLUTCH CABLE BACK IN PLACE…don’t ask me how I know. After all of the bolts are hand tighten…start tightening the bolts in a criss-cross method….don’t hunk them down all the way at once…slowly work your way around until all of them are snug. Refer to your service manual for torque values if you anal.

IMPORTANT: ON THE STATOR SIDE…YOU WILL BE LEFT WITH ONE BOLT NOT BEING USED…THIS ONE. IT CAME OFF THE CENTER OF THE OEM COVER. DON’T THROW IT AWAY…KEEP IT.


8. Finished stator cover:

Ignition Cover/ RHS
IMPORTANT: MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO CATCH THE DRIPPING OIL…THIS SIDE WILL LOSE SOME OIL SO BE READY!

1. Follow step 1 from the stator side (LHS)
2. Once you have pulled the cover off…it will remain attached because the ignition coil is bolted down by three torx bolts….take your handy torX bit and loosen/remove the three torx bols…also, you will need to remove one more torx bolt that is holding down the bracket for the wires…so you will be removing a total of FOUR torx bolts…KEEP THESE.

3. Once you have detached the ignition coil and the bracket….DO NOT SET THE IGNITION COIL BACK INTO THE CASE….ITS MAGNETIC…VERY MAGNETIC..DONT DO THIS:
4. Next, follow steps 2-5 from the stator side (LHS)
5. Next, re-install the ignition coil into the WoodCraft cover and bolt it down with the three torx bolts…then re-install the bracket that holds the wires down. USE RED LOCTITE ON ALL OF THE TORX BOLTS.
6. Next, apply silicone to the mating surface of the cover…especially over the rubber grommet.
7. Next, align the cover with the case and slide it into place…BE CAREFULL….IT WILL PULL ITSELF INTO PLACE , LOL
8. Again, apply RED LOCTITE to all of the retaining bolts and hands tighten them first. Then using the criss-cross method…start tightening all of the bolts until they are all snug…refer to service manual for torque values.
ALL DONE!!! Some people suggest doing an oil change after doing this mod to call it SUPER SAFE…that’s completely up to you…I would recommend it, but that’s me. I would let the bike sit for a couple of hours and then start up the bike and let it run for five minutes or so and check for leaks. After you make sure everything is in line…put everything back together. Also…after shutting off the bike…let it sit for about a minute or two and check oil level…add oil accordingly.
Finished product:
Stator side

Ignition side


If I missed anything, ANYTHING at all...please feel free to pint it out and ill edit my write up accordingly
 

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Premium Member
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fyi... a little trick i learned on getting those torx bolts out without stripping them - take your time with a pen-torch heating them up BEFORE you get to cranking on em (that hold the stator in). i use this:

 

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Sometimes..........
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Discussion Starter #4
fyi... a little trick i learned on getting those torx bolts out without stripping them - take your time with a pen-torch heating them up BEFORE you get to cranking on em (that hold the stator in). i use this:

nice, thanks for the input bro.
 

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Parts Pimp
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fyi... a little trick i learned on getting those torx bolts out without stripping them - take your time with a pen-torch heating them up BEFORE you get to cranking on em (that hold the stator in). i use this:

Butane torch like that from radio shack or a heat gun is a good idea as well. Those torx are much easier to remove after heating them up!
 

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Sometimes..........
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Discussion Starter #8
Ok, changes have been made to the original post to reflect the correct LHS and RHS issue.

Also, if for any reason...i confused you or you have questions....feel free to PM
 

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Ok, changes have been made to the original post to reflect the correct LHS and RHS issue.

Also, if for any reason...i confused you or you have questions....feel free to PM
I still see it saying stator/LHS install then pics of the Ign cover/RHS cover.
 

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Sherman Connoisseur
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Damn nice write up...albeit still looks like a tough job...lol
 

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Parts Pimp
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better sir?
No, sorry to be a pest, but both sections are still labeled incorrectly. that is the right side of the bike, the ignition cover side. Left side is the clutch lever side and right side is the brake lever side of the bike. Pretend you are sitting on the bike and the left side is your clutch lever side.

 

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Parts Pimp
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Damn nice write up...albeit still looks like a tough job...lol
It is a nice write up! :fact

It's not a big job at all Ricky. IMO the hardest part is either getting to the stator plug up by the frame to disconnect it, or removing the stator wire from the clip..
 

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Sometimes..........
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3,414 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
It is a nice write up! :fact

It's not a big job at all Ricky. IMO the hardest part is either getting to the stator plug up by the frame to disconnect it, or removing the stator wire from the clip..
:fact

Ill fix it when I get home...I'm at work...lol


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