Yamaha R6 Forum: YZF-R6 Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

2011 R6

Wondering what the recommendations are at the 600 mile service, do you guys switch to synthetic at that change, or wait until the next one?

Was looking at oil filters, i live in Maine, so options are limited. Dealer is 2 hours away, no advance auto, no pep boys. i came across threads a few weeks back about filters, and recall K&N, Wix and Purolator. I dont usually see too many Wix or Purolator filters around here. I found the number for K&N to be KN-204, is that correct? What is the best bang/buck with filters i could get from some place like wally world, Napa, or autozone? IF anyone has the part numbers, that would be even better.
 

·
USMC-Semper Fi!
Joined
·
582 Posts
Hey man, what's up. How's it going.
Ok, to answer your questions straight and to the point...
Don't use the K&N oil filter, the KN-204 is the correct but it's not practical. Reason why is that the oil filter comes with a nut on it that it's supposed to help you tighten and loosen the filter, but instead, it gets in the way of the shifter and blocks the shifter rod from being tighten completely in place. I recently did an oil change using this filter and had to learn the hard way that this filter has a major design flaw. My shifter rod is currently half way tightened bc I couldn't tighten it in all the way bc if I did it wouldn't move, which means I wouldn't be able to shift. I can't wait to replace it and go back to using the factory one. That nut on the filter hinders the movement on the shifter rod and it's causing me to miss second gear every now and then, even while my shifter rod is only tighten halfway. I will not be using this oil filter anymore.
As far as the oil itself, I wouldn't go synthetic just yet. I spoke to this old man who has been riding for a while and he told me that he's tried everything out there as far as oil and oil filter and he recommends the factory type oil which is this one. (link below)

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/72/214/933/-/19671/Yamalube-All-Purpose-4-Stroke-Oil

I've personally used this one for almost 10,000 miles and haven't had any problems.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/72/214/933/-/11718/Pro-Honda-GN4-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil

recently I used this one bc they didn't have the one above.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/72/214/933/-/11717/Pro-Honda-HP4-4-Stroke-Motor-Oil

But being that you have an accessibility issue and might not have a way of getting ahold of these types of oil, I would say to use this one (link below)

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-10W-40-Full-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-1qt/16767829#Product+Reviews

A lot of the guys on here use this oil, and although it is full synthetic, it is specifically designed for our motorcycles. It is also at Wal-Mart, and unless you live in the Bronx like I do, then you should have a Wal-Mart near you.
So, it being that you only have 600 miles on it, I guess my advice would be to look up on the forum the advantages or disadvantages of using synthetic for first maintenance, but I doubt that there would be any issues, just make sure you use the required amount, which is 2 and 3/4 of a quart, (almost 3 quarts) and good luck with everything.
Let me know if you need anything else or have any other questions, just click on my na,e and send a message.
goodluck man, hope this helps.
 

·
FedEx Man
Joined
·
4,991 Posts
I've only used K&N's and never had a problem...



As far as waiting or not it doesn't matter you can switch over whenever you want and you won't have a problem. Hit up ChiefSmokeDawg he has an oil change kit at a really good price with the best oil out there IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
The Truth about switching to Synthetic is that you can switch at ZERO miles BUT, you still need to change at 600 miles. There is no such thing as "break-in" as far as oil type is concerned. The 600 mark is used to remove machining and casting debris due to heat cycling.

Use a Motorcycle Specific oil if you don't know what Specifications to look for.

I definitely don't recommend K&N anything. Definitely NEVER a Purolator Pure One. No matter what anyone says, Do Not use a Pure One!

AMSOIL, WIX, Purolator ML Series

I can drop AMSOIL right on your doorstep at the lowest possible price.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I can drop AMSOIL right on your doorstep at the lowest possible price.
What would the price be per quart/gallon?

I know amsoil is the "Best" im not disputing that, but ive never been one to drop the extra coin for it. I am one of the non mainstreamers that has read the research out there and gone previously with Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic.

Anyone know the part numbers for Wix or Purolator filters? or another generic brand that is just one of those two rebranded?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Rotella will work but there are better oils out there. As far as AMSOIL, I have 2 different grades but, I usually recommend the M/C Specific. If you use the AMSOIL filter w/AMSOIL you can go twice as far as the Rotella. I usually recommend only going half again as far on your first change and then double on the secong

AMSOIL is EAOM-103, WIX is 51358 or NAPA Gold 1358. I need to find the number for the Purolator ML Series.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
That is correct. Use Only the Gold Series.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
300V is an excellent oil.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
Thanks,... The Oil Gods were in your favor. LOL

Don't forget me when you need appearance products, anti-freeze, brake fluid, chain lube.

I am now a distributor for Liquid Performance which I have found to be some Fantastic products.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Bob,

How much would the wix filters be if i just get 1/2 of those from you? What is the usual turnaround time?

I may have to get one locally for this first time, as i want to change it this weekend, and get them from you in the future if the price is worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,243 Posts
To be honest, the WIX filters for the bikes, I think are overpriced from us at around $10. I would run the AMSOIL filter for $13.30 and have the best filter you can buy.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best


Bob
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top