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Ive used q3, superbike pro and superbike sc3. All of them on the track. My friends have used the super corsa, but the dont last that long. If you are not running a supper faster pace, i think you are spending a lot of money on a tire that you dont need. The only reason i stopped using q3 is that they were not keeping up with my pace. I used the q3 even when i was in the slow pace of the advanced group. My sc3 is lasting quite a bit and the grip is there


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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Just to update this thread with my decision.

I ordered an extra set of wheels, and then some new tires to accompany my extra set. Currently for daily commuting and canyon carving, I have Michelin PP3s mounted which are okay for that purpose, and that purpose only - just my personal experience.

The tires I ended up ordering were SP V2s in 120/70 front and 180/55 rear. Let's see if they feel as amazing as everyone said they would. I'll be trying them out at my upcoming track day. Also this will be my first track day in the advanced group. Many people have told me I'm ready, and I'm pretty sure I am - at least I hope so.:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Reviving this thread as I believe I am ready for some slicks. I'm just about running a decent pace in A group - well, decent enough at my own pace to keep up with the faster folks in A group for about 1/2 - 1 full lap. :surprise:

The SC V2s are the :shit. I love 'em. However, I'm working on smoothing out my riding, my lines, my throttle control, my body position, and a whole lot of other stuff to improve. With that said, I know my lap times at various track will start to drop, I'll pick up the pace, and be a little more demanding in the "trust your rubber department."

With that said, any updates here in 2018 for decent affordable warmers?
 

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my old woodcrafts were cooking my pirellis last weekend. Not a lick of trouble from them in ~5+ years? The newer style is even nicer. Really like the cord disconnect feature versus others that have to be powered off.
Nothing worse than cheap warmers. :) That being said my buddy still has his tire sox! About $200 new.
 

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Reviving this thread as I believe I am ready for some slicks. I'm just about running a decent pace in A group - well, decent enough at my own pace to keep up with the faster folks in A group for about 1/2 - 1 full lap. :surprise:

The SC V2s are the :shit. I love 'em. However, I'm working on smoothing out my riding, my lines, my throttle control, my body position, and a whole lot of other stuff to improve. With that said, I know my lap times at various track will start to drop, I'll pick up the pace, and be a little more demanding in the "trust your rubber department."

With that said, any updates here in 2018 for decent affordable warmers?
I really like my Moto-D dual temp warmers. The make single temp warmers as well that I think are just north of $300.

If you're gonna run warmers, I think it makes sense to run the slick compounds except maybe in cooler temperatures if you can't keep them at operating temps. An SC2 front (slick or dot) and SC1 or SC2 rear can last a while depending on your pace, suspension and track temps. The SC3 rear lasts forever. I went from SP v2s to SC3s to SC2 F and mostly SC1 R. There's really no going back. There is a night and day difference in my opinion, and they'll only wear worse if you start going faster. But that's the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I really like my Moto-D dual temp warmers. The make single temp warmers as well that I think are just north of $300.

If you're gonna run warmers, I think it makes sense to run the slick compounds except maybe in cooler temperatures if you can't keep them at operating temps. An SC2 front (slick or dot) and SC1 or SC2 rear can last a while depending on your pace, suspension and track temps. The SC3 rear lasts forever. I went from SP v2s to SC3s to SC2 F and mostly SC1 R. There's really no going back. There is a night and day difference in my opinion, and they'll only wear worse if you start going faster. But that's the idea.
I've been doing reading in different places on the net regarding different Pirelli race compounds. I've aloso been looking at the Dunlops as well. It just boils down to which tires I choose.

Pirelli or Dunlop - hmmmm?
 

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I've been doing reading in different places on the net regarding different Pirelli race compounds. I've aloso been looking at the Dunlops as well. It just boils down to which tires I choose.

Pirelli or Dunlop - hmmmm?
The two manufacturers have very different philosphies on how to build a tire, and will need a different chassis set-up if you are semi-serious. The dunlop has a much stiffer side wall and carcas, whereas the Pirelli is a lot more pliable. Something to consider depending on what you have already been running and where your set up is. If you get the chance to speak to someone who is fast and has moved one direction or the other in regards to what tire they run, that would be a good conversation to have to ask them what they changed in regards to chassis set-up.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The two manufacturers have very different philosphies on how to build a tire, and will need a different chassis set-up if you are semi-serious. The dunlop has a much stiffer side wall and carcas, whereas the Pirelli is a lot more pliable. Something to consider depending on what you have already been running and where your set up is. If you get the chance to speak to someone who is fast and has moved one direction or the other in regards to what tire they run, that would be a good conversation to have to ask them what they changed in regards to chassis set-up.

Defiantely will do that.

Also, maybe people who've been on both will continue to chime in on this thread as well. The deeper one gets, the more one learns.
 

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There are more qualified people to provide input than me, and the Dunlop vs et all has probably been debated ad nauseum. Regardless:

I used Pirelli slicks in different compounds all summer on two R6s and an R1. I ran Dunlop GPAs medium/medium plus last year on my R1. I had couple cold tire low sides on the Dunlops when I was careless with my warmers/sat in the pits. That's not the tire's fault, but it reinforced for me what I believe is the consensus: the Dunlop's require a lot of heat to work, i.e. are better the faster you are.

Is this actually true? Does someone have data? I don't know.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Upon reading reviews, I have found that some people like a firm/stiff carcus while others like a carcus that's soft and flexible. I don't know the difference in feeling, so I guess I'll eventually end up trying both to see what my personal preference is.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Why do the reccomended pressures for slicks differ that much more than that of a DOT tire?

For example (and my example could be slightly off, so feel free to chim in), @ sea level, 10% relative humidity, and the ambient air temperature is 80 degrees F, why is it recommended to run, let's say a Q3 at 30f/29r and a NTEC at 29f/26r? Is it for the flexing of the slick?

EDIT: Is it that it could be for the extra air expansion in the tire attribuatble to higher temps from a faster pace (more thermal loading on the tire). Hotter air expands while cooler air is more condensed.
 

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Why do the reccomended pressures for slicks differ that much more than that of a DOT tire?

For example (and my example could be slightly off, so feel free to chim in), @ sea level, 10% relative humidity, and the ambient air temperature is 80 degrees F, why is it recommended to run, let's say a Q3 at 30f/29r and a NTEC at 29f/26r? Is it for the flexing of the slick?

EDIT: Is it that it could be for the extra air expansion in the tire attribuatble to higher temps from a faster pace (more thermal loading on the tire). Hotter air expands while cooler air is more condensed.
Those are about the pressures you would use for a DOT on the track as well. 30/30 is a decent starting point if you have absolutely no idea and no-one there with more knowledge. You wouldn't want to commute on those pressures (your tire would square off quickly) but you sure as hell can get a lot more traction for braking, accelerating and cornering.
 

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Qq

Why do the reccomended pressures for slicks differ that much more than that of a DOT tire?
For example (and my example could be slightly off, so feel free to chim in), @ sea level, 10% relative humidity, and the ambient air temperature is 80 degrees F, why is it recommended to run, let's say a Q3 at 30f/29r and a NTEC at 29f/26r? Is it for the flexing of the slick?
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difference between the 2? Operating temperature.
Also dont let the "recommended" thing fool you. Someone that runs near track record pace is going to get different recos than someone who is 15 seconds off the pace. Dunlop will publish a "reco" pressure but that number may not work for everyone (thats actually checking their tires)
The faster you go... the higher your front tire pressure needs and the lower your rear tire pressure drops.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Me running 28/29 in the rear and 30 in the front on a 90 degree plus day in the desert felt perfect (Chuckwalla). I also ran these same pressures at Laguna Seca in 68 degree weather with no problems. Both times I was using a SP V2. I guess I'l have to get back to playing with pressure on slicks to see what I prefer.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
... My sc3 is lasting quite a bit and the grip is there
Please chime in if you have been on a Diablo Supercorsa SP V2, a Diablo Supercorsa SC2, and/or a Diablo Superbike SC3 - anyone.

How does the Superbike SC3 stack up in terms of grip to the Supercorsa SC2 and the Supercorsa SP V2?

I've looked at Pirelli longevity vs. grip chart for the different compounds, but it's not there for the SP V2.
 

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dunflops feel like your ridding on the street in the rain..... having to use the outer rubber to feel the grip

poorellis feel like your riding in the dirt with a flat tyre.... having to use the carcass to feel the grip

each to their own, personally I cant stand the feeling of dunflop but my buddy beside me cutting the same laps cant stand poorelli

and everyone has a different skill level, if your coming back in and the slicks are colder than when you took the warmers off you need to ride harder or stay on cut slicks ( the cut slicks assist in generating a bit of heat)

just my 2 cents
 
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