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Just wondering if anyone could tell me what i need and how i would wire in a keyless start for track days. thanks (pics would be get if possible)
 

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08 Yamaha R6
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08 Yamaha R6
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mailbox killin' werewolf
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disconnect the 4 wires going to the ignition. Put a toggle switch between the two thicker wires, connect the two thinner wires together. Tada! you're done.
I'm gonna try this for now just to see if she will start. I havn't gotten a chance to try since my key went missing during my accident. Do you have to cut any wires or anything?? Would i be able to reconnect these wires to a new ignition down the road??

Thanks
 

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08 in the crate
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$100 for that!!!!!
If you have your ignition off the bike what you can do is cut the wires after the plug because you don't have the key anyway then you can plug in the connection and solder the two smaller wires together and put a switch on the two bigger wires if that is how it's wired. Then you can pull the plug off if you get another ignition. Another option that we have done is wire the ignition into the run/stop switch making it the ignition and the run button. Then you don't have to buy anything, just hook it up. T
 

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I'm gonna try this for now just to see if she will start. I havn't gotten a chance to try since my key went missing during my accident. Do you have to cut any wires or anything?? Would i be able to reconnect these wires to a new ignition down the road??

Thanks
When you cut the wires just leave enough on all the original connectors so that you can solder them back together later. That way if you change your mind you can redo the ignition.


*EDIT, If i remember correctly, the thicker wires on the bikes harness can have male spade connectors inserted, so you won't have to cut that connector off. The two thinner wires can probably have a little jumper wire made the same way, with either male or female space connectors shoved into the wiring harness.
 

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www.1seven1.com
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On my old R6 race bike I ran a 12v relay in the ignition lines and tripped the relay with voltage running through the kill-switch on the handle bars. It worked pretty slick ... no need for a key and the ignition went off when you flipped the red button.

On my new race bike I just safety wired wired the key into the ignition.
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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i was looking at it last night. It looks like i can just cut the wires about 3-4 inches after the connector and put the two small wires together to one side of a toggle switch and the two larger wires to the other side of the switch. If i cut the wires before the connector i should be able to just unplug the ignition wire plugs and plug a new ignition module into it when i get a new one right? My ignition is crushed pretty bad from when the bike went end over end down the highway. I just want to do this temporary to see if it will start. I am going to get a new ignition and lock set that comes with a key off ebay in the spring.
 

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i was looking at it last night. It looks like i can just cut the wires about 3-4 inches after the connector and put the two small wires together to one side of a toggle switch and the two larger wires to the other side of the switch. If i cut the wires before the connector i should be able to just unplug the ignition wire plugs and plug a new ignition module into it when i get a new one right? My ignition is crushed pretty bad from when the bike went end over end down the highway. I just want to do this temporary to see if it will start. I am going to get a new ignition and lock set that comes with a key off ebay in the spring.
if you put the two larger wires on the same side of the toggle switch, then the bike will be on constantly. If you connect the two thinner wires to a +12 volt source, you'll fry your starter circuit cutoff relay. If you attempt to do this, never connect the thin wires to the thicker wires, only bad things will happen.
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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if you put the two larger wires on the same side of the toggle switch, then the bike will be on constantly. If you connect the two thinner wires to a +12 volt source, you'll fry your starter circuit cutoff relay. If you attempt to do this, never connect the thin wires to the thicker wires, only bad things will happen.
Ok thats good to know. How would i wire it up?
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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Thick wires:
Put one thick wire on one side of the toggle switch, put the other thick wire on the other side of the toggle switch.


Thin wires: connect them together somehow (butt connector, vampire clip, cut and twist, etc)
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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Thick wires:
Put one thick wire on one side of the toggle switch, put the other thick wire on the other side of the toggle switch.


Thin wires: connect them together somehow (butt connector, vampire clip, cut and twist, etc)
ok thank you. I'll try that and see how it works
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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does the toggle switch need to be able to handle a certain amount of amp?

I have an 8 amp switch. Will that work?
 

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mailbox killin' werewolf
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ok i just did this today. It worked out great and my bike did turn over which makes me extremely happy.

Does this create a constant draw on the battery or does it shut it off when the switch is in the off position?

Thanks
 

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The switch in the off position is the exact same as when you turn the key off. There is no current draw. As far as current draw, 8 amps is plenty. I think I have a 1/2 or 1 amp switch thats rated at 120 volts, so its (kinda) capable of 10 amps at 12 volts. Not that the math works out like that, but the point is 8 amps is plenty.
 

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iCrash
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on my honda im using a 30 amp switch.
judging by the size of the wires running to the stock ignition, there is some serious power running through there. (not to mention the fuse on the start circuit is 30 amp for my application)

u can get them at electrical supply stores for a few bucks.
they look much like this and come in whatever amperage u need, mine has rubber covering the switch and looks very professional.
http://asia.electrocomponents.com/largeimages/C354299-01.jpg
 

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[wORkiNPRoGReSs]
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The switch in the off position is the exact same as when you turn the key off. There is no current draw. As far as current draw, 8 amps is plenty. I think I have a 1/2 or 1 amp switch thats rated at 120 volts, so its (kinda) capable of 10 amps at 12 volts. Not that the math works out like that, but the point is 8 amps is plenty.
Hey Agent4573,

I was just wondering if you're still selling your subframe? I sent ya a PM.. Wasn't sure if you got the chance to read it. Thanks in advance:)
 
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