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Hey guys, i finally ditched the "quiet" R6 status and got a full system. However, i read a variety of different opinions and am stuck on a conclusion; Will i need a Jet Kit no matter what since i have a full system? I am going to buy one anyway, but i was curious. Finally, if i ride it for like 20 minutes will this lean/rich issue affect my pistons severly? I am almost 100% positive it is rich cuz its boggy a little bit till i hit like 7-8k. My buddy says no matter what, i am going to burn a hole in my piston if i keep riding it like i do. Is this for real? I am a newbie to most internal components, but i understand the bare essentials. Thanks for the help.

Toomuchskillz
 

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An open race system will always lean out a bike no matter what (unless it's a clever bike like teh TL1000 that compensates automatically) but that does not mean it will damage the bike. It's a question of how lean and therefore how hot it gets...

And sorry to say there is no clear rule for the R6 - some have probs and some dont but your best bet is to take it to a dealer and have them check if you're worried or just go for broke and jet it up
 

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If it is real lean, the bog you are getting could be cause of it. You could have plug pilot jets, and or out of adjustment.

You can defintly melt some metal in your engine, or cause damage from detonation if it runs too hot from being lean.


jet it!
 

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How can you tell if you are running lean (or rich for that matter)?

Also, when I bought my bike it had a jet kit (still does I guess) and a stock exhaust. Can this setup do any damage??

I just got a slip-on, but i ran it that way for like 10000miles or so...
 

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anytime you change anything to the engine like air filter, exhaust, cams or what ever you need to re jet the carbs again. if you live in denver and went to pomona, ca to race you need to re jet for the altitude.
 

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Reading the spark plugs can tell you all kinds of stuff!! Plug readings are the only way an engine can talk to you, without high dollar exhaust gas analyzers. Even then, i'd rather go by plug readings.

You can look at porcelain insulator for color (white and dry is very lean, black and wet is rich) A nice tan to chocolate is color you want. You can look look at electrode and ground for burning (ground can actually burn away, electrode can burn and look like tiny spots of corrosion from lean conditions and detonation. Detonation is caused by lean conditions and can literally destroy your plug, lots of damage will be present. If you see a gray tint, or tiny aluminum specs on the plug.......too late.

You can also look at the top of the piston (hard to do without a bore scope on your bike) to look for pitting that is cause from lean and detonation. This is mostly valuable and best when diagnosing 2strokes.


I wish i could think of a website that shows pics and better explanations of plug reading, i'll try to find one. Plug reading and learning to jet is a very beneful thing to learn. then you don't have to have a shop do all the expensive labor.
 

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Oh yeah, in his situation guys.......I keep forgetting about the choke since i no longer have one :moon

Anywho......when it bogs, pull the choke on about 3rd of the way or so. If the bog goes away.....you are way lean in the area that you have the bog. So if you have to pull the choke half third throttle, you'll be looking at the pilot jets, and needle position. At full throttle, you'll be lean on your main jets. so on.

If the choke makes it worse.......its rich and you need to go leaner in that area.

Of course to get the most ponies by jetting, you do have to have it on a dyno while making these changes and see how it goes. Otherwise, this is just a way to get you good jetting and real close to optimial performance.
 
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