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AFM #327
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Discussion Starter #1
So, if I reflash the ECU and lower the engine braking, can I use the rear brakes while leaned to adjust corner speeds? I used to do that as a beginner, but since have not touched rear brakes on the track at all.

What I'm looking for are relation of contact patch, lean angles, braking forces etc... I know touching the front brake leaned over is a bad idea :nono
 

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I would suggest staying away from the rear brake for now. With your boot on, you won't have a good gauge of how much pressure you're adding so it might fishtail you (ask me how I know :laugh). Just trail brake into the corner, which is what you're supposed to do anyways. I engine brake before I trail brake.
 

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AFM #327
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15,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would suggest staying away from the rear brake for now. With your boot on, you won't have a good gauge of how much pressure you're adding so it might fishtail you (ask me how I know :laugh). Just trail brake into the corner, which is what you're supposed to do anyways. I engine brake before I trail brake.
i want to test with and without engine braking on the same day if possible to see if I do like or unlike engine braking. Without a feel for it, I dunno if I want to lower it at all. A spare ECU with the flash will help test :laugh

Laguna will be the test track if I get the spare ECU
 

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i want to test with and without engine braking on the same day if possible to see if I do like or unlike engine braking. Without a feel for it, I dunno if I want to lower it at all. A spare ECU with the flash will help test :laugh

Laguna will be the test track if I get the spare ECU
Are you getting the ECU tuned by Anthony? I have mine tuned by him as well and still use the engine braking even though it's been reduced.
 

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AFM #327
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15,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Are you getting the ECU tuned by Anthony? I have mine tuned by him as well and still use the engine braking even though it's been reduced.
Yes, tuned by "The Bauce" only!!! I'd like to keep engine braking, but dont know how much. Is there a way to change it yourself after the flash?
 

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Yes, tuned by "The Bauce" only!!! I'd like to keep engine braking, but dont know how much. Is there a way to change it yourself after the flash?
Most likely not but you'd have to ask him yourself. I just trusted him with the ECU and had him work his magic. Just let him know what you want and he'll work with you. He's probably the best person to reply to your question.
 

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AFM #327
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15,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Most likely not but you'd have to ask him yourself. I just trusted him with the ECU and had him work his magic. Just let him know what you want and he'll work with you. He's probably the best person to reply to your question.
:yes

he's hte best when it comes to answering questions. Helped me out a lot with the QS install as well. Will call/text him when I get the spare ECU.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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there is no reason to not try using the rear brake. Most race boots are thin enough in the sole to allow good feel (i wear SIDI .. awesome boots). Your not wearing a MX boot, but even on a dirt bike you feel the controls, so how will you not feel it with a rr boot ?

Just apply gradually. yea, if you stomp on it, or apply with a lot of sudden force, the rear is gonna step out. Don't do that. Baby steps and learn how to do it.

If you have 2 ecu's that can be flashed with different eb settings, that would be ideal. Anthony did mine and i have another with more eb taken out, but i'm still loving the one with a decent amount of EB left in (i have more eb that most of the boxes he does so ask him what may work for you).

Remember, if you wanna reduce eb without flashing again, you can cut the fingers off one of the 3 "Y" springs in the clutch basket. Put the remaining washer back in place on top of the other 2 full "Y" springs, torque the center hub nut, rest of clutch, go.
You can further reduce engine braking by removing the fingers of the 2nd spring but you must leave 1 spring in place. One hot setup that some used, was this : 1 full spring, then 6mm cut off fingers of 2nd, then 12mm cut off the top spring. I personally am using 2 full, top spring with 12mm cut off fingers, and mild eb reduction.
 

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AFM #327
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15,209 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
there is no reason to not try using the rear brake. Most race boots are thin enough in the sole to allow good feel (i wear SIDI .. awesome boots). Your not wearing a MX boot, but even on a dirt bike you feel the controls, so how will you not feel it with a rr boot ?

Just apply gradually. yea, if you stomp on it, or apply with a lot of sudden force, the rear is gonna step out. Don't do that. Baby steps and learn how to do it.

If you have 2 ecu's that can be flashed with different eb settings, that would be ideal. Anthony did mine and i have another with more eb taken out, but i'm still loving the one with a decent amount of EB left in (i have more eb that most of the boxes he does so ask him what may work for you).

Remember, if you wanna reduce eb without flashing again, you can cut the fingers off one of the 3 "Y" springs in the clutch basket. Put the remaining washer back in place on top of the other 2 full "Y" springs, torque the center hub nut, rest of clutch, go.
You can further reduce engine braking by removing the fingers of the 2nd spring but you must leave 1 spring in place. One hot setup that some used, was this : 1 full spring, then 6mm cut off fingers of 2nd, then 12mm cut off the top spring. I personally am using 2 full, top spring with 12mm cut off fingers, and mild eb reduction.
Thx Greg. I dont think I'm gonna mess with the clutch basket for now. Imma try flash both ECU's, keep 80% and 50% eb and test both out to see which one I like.

As for rear braking, I grew up on rear brakes in turns back on 100cc in India, I know, completely different story, but point is I feel like I would be comfortable with it.

Will try out next time out on track and update.
 

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I get paid to get high
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there is no reason to not try using the rear brake. Most race boots are thin enough in the sole to allow good feel (i wear SIDI .. awesome boots). Your not wearing a MX boot, but even on a dirt bike you feel the controls, so how will you not feel it with a rr boot ?

Just apply gradually. yea, if you stomp on it, or apply with a lot of sudden force, the rear is gonna step out. Don't do that. Baby steps and learn how to do it.

If you have 2 ecu's that can be flashed with different eb settings, that would be ideal. Anthony did mine and i have another with more eb taken out, but i'm still loving the one with a decent amount of EB left in (i have more eb that most of the boxes he does so ask him what may work for you).

Remember, if you wanna reduce eb without flashing again, you can cut the fingers off one of the 3 "Y" springs in the clutch basket. Put the remaining washer back in place on top of the other 2 full "Y" springs, torque the center hub nut, rest of clutch, go.
You can further reduce engine braking by removing the fingers of the 2nd spring but you must leave 1 spring in place. One hot setup that some used, was this : 1 full spring, then 6mm cut off fingers of 2nd, then 12mm cut off the top spring. I personally am using 2 full, top spring with 12mm cut off fingers, and mild eb reduction.
This is extremely interesting. I don't ride track....yet, but definitely interesting. I'm assuming this will work on first gens, that is if the clutch is similar? Or at least some variation.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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This is extremely interesting. I don't ride track....yet, but definitely interesting. I'm assuming this will work on first gens, that is if the clutch is similar? Or at least some variation.
nope. only 3rd gen as it has a slipper clutch. Those "Y" springs are what put tension on the center hub that rises up on ramps on decel (pushing on the pressure plate and spreading the clutch stack). A center hub of a bike without a slipper doesn't move up and down, it's fixed in place and only disengages when you pull the clutch lever..
 
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