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hey guys

i just finished building an r6 as my next season race bike. i took it on the first track day last weekend , loved the bike but hated the shifting feel. is there away to make the bike shift smoother, came off 2012 gsxr 1000 and had the same set up on it and shifting was a lot smoother.

would under cutting the trany make the bike shift smoother, maybe a factory shifter pro star upgrade (could not find one online).

thanks
sami
 

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I have the factory pro shift star kit in our drag bike and dude, that thing is the shit. With that thing, it clicks into gear SO nicely and has not missed a shift since, even with a ragged gear set. Back cutting and cryo hardening the tranny gears will help with engagement and slip and reliablility/longevity. You may want to try something as simple as adjusting your shift pedal, too. A LOT of people overlook that and have it set up incorrectly, usually too high in my experience. Honestly though, the R6 shifts pretty decent, or at least my 08 did. You can also try to go to a high quality synthetic oil, I would recommend the Motul 300V. Its expensive, but worth it.
 

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Mine is very sensitive to where the knuckle is set. 1 spline off and if shifts like crap. Both GP & standard shift. If your bike has alot of miles on it... may want to check the shift forks.
 

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Mine is very sensitive to where the knuckle is set. 1 spline off and if shifts like crap. Both GP & standard shift. If your bike has alot of miles on it... may want to check the shift forks.
you got a pic of where your's at? or where/how it changes based on where your shift point is?
 

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Can you guys post a pic?

FYI setup is woodcraft gp rearsets with QS if that matters.

I'm positive mine is off the mark incorrectly.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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hey guys

i just finished building an r6 as my next season race bike. i took it on the first track day last weekend , loved the bike but hated the shifting feel. is there away to make the bike shift smoother, came off 2012 gsxr 1000 and had the same set up on it and shifting was a lot smoother.

would under cutting the trany make the bike shift smoother, maybe a factory shifter pro star upgrade (could not find one online).

thanks
sami
are you using a quick shifter? in years and years, and owning good number of these bikes (and a few spare motors), i find the transmissions to be very good. Few that roadrace an r6, are undercutting or cryo treating. just no real need. If you stomp on the shifter, and end up bending a shift fork, well, that's another story.
If you are NOT using a quick shifter.. get one :) (i standard shift )

it's possible that drag racing puts a different demand on the trans.
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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i would tend to agree.. for what it's worth, i have been racing the same trans in my supersport bike since 2008. Every year, full seasons. My sb i replaced the trans (with a used trans), and it was in service since 2007 when i built it new. Around 2011 i replaced it when a con rod bolt broke and took out a lot of stuff..
 

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Can you guys post a pic?

FYI setup is woodcraft gp rearsets with QS if that matters.

I'm positive mine is off the mark incorrectly.
The important part is that you get the shift rod and shift arm at 90 degrees from each other. With the woodcrafts having the rod coming from a different location, the dot on the shaft is going to be way off.
 

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Just to add in on this topic. I use standard shift. and always put the dot on the line for when i ever have to move the shift rod. Also ive never really heard of as to why it has to be on a certain way and why. If someone could expain that be great!! :swordfigh
 

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I have mine on backwards and upside down with a bent shift rod. It's the only way I could get clearance and functionality out of my weird rearsets. Just keep moving it around to see what works for you.
 

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Just to add in on this topic. I use standard shift. and always put the dot on the line for when i ever have to move the shift rod. Also ive never really heard of as to why it has to be on a certain way and why. If someone could expain that be great!! :swordfigh
When you shift, the rod pushes on the arm, which rotates the shaft. When you have the arm and shaft at 90 degrees, the amount of rod movement required to turn the shaft is minimized.
 

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i don't think it's so much that the movement is minimized, as it is more leverage (and easier to shift) when the arm is at a 90deg to the shift rod.
 

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i don't think it's so much that the movement is minimized, as it is more leverage (and easier to shift) when the arm is at a 90deg to the shift rod.
You are correct, my post actually has it backwards. There is actually less rod movement required if the angle is less than 90 degrees, but it will require more effort. And of course you don't really want to make it any easier bend the shift rod.
 
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