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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know where I can order a bolt for the circled section on my 03? The little fairing piece that the bolt goes into isn't shown on any of the parts diagrams I looked at.
376852
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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It’s on the Frame diagram. Item #15, part # 90111-05006-00/bolt-hex-socket-button
 

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There’s not a Yamaha dealership near you?
 

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Since the fairing bolts that are threaded directly into the frame cannot handle the torque necessary to keep them in place, use a thread-locker adhesive or silicon o-ring. I just helicoil-ed the one at the relative 5 O'clock position since the already weak threads were done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Since the fairing bolts that are threaded directly into the frame cannot handle the torque necessary to keep them in place, use a thread-locker adhesive or silicon o-ring. I just helicoil-ed the one at the relative 5 O'clock position since the already weak threads were done.
Good call about the torque. I figured the same thing so I never torqued them to spec. Instead snugged them tight. Every few rides I go over them all and still come across some fairing bolts that loosened up a bit from the vibrations.
 

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I'd personally go to a local hardware store and search there. It doesn't have to be original OEM screws as long as they're identical on both left & right sides. When I wrecked my previous bike a few years ago, this is what I did.
You may end up using a washer too if you can't find the right head diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd personally go to a local hardware store and search there. It doesn't have to be original OEM screws as long as they're identical on both left & right sides. When I wrecked my previous bike a few years ago, this is what I did.
You may end up using a washer too if you can't find the right head diameter.
Unfortunately all stores are closed and are curbside pickup. Lockdown in effect from covid so I can't enter and compare bolts to see what would fit lol
 

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Unfortunately all stores are closed and are curbside pickup. Lockdown in effect from covid so I can't enter and compare bolts to see what would fit lol
I was curious reading this thread the lengths do matter? Like I can't throw a bolt with the same thread count and like a hair bigger in there. I have an 03 r6 and scratched some bolts on the right side crank case cover. They were almost impossible to get out with vice grips as they were so damaged I couldn't use an alan wrench. But I have spare bolts with the same thread count but they are different lengths by literally millimeters.

Does it matter? And are they a certain torque
 

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Does it matter? And are they a certain torque
For almost all applications, the depth of thread engagement should be at least 1.5x the diameter of the bolt. But since this isn't a heavy clamp force, you might be fine with less-than-perfect scenario. If the bolts are slightly longer, then make sure they won't bottom out and leave a thin gap and leak oil. If they are on the shorter side, make sure there's enough thread engagement. A quick trip to Ace or any hardware store should help a ton.

Hope this helps:

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For almost all applications, the depth of thread engagement should be at least 1.5x the diameter of the bolt. But since this isn't a heavy clamp force, you might be fine with less-than-perfect scenario. If the bolts are slightly longer, then make sure they won't bottom out and leave a thin gap and leak oil. If they are on the shorter side, make sure there's enough thread engagement. A quick trip to Ace or any hardware store should help a ton.

Hope this helps:

View attachment 377356
Ok thanks a ton, was just making sure that it wasn't gonna come in to contact with anything on the inside and mess something up in the crank case.
 

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Ok thanks a ton, was just making sure that it wasn't gonna come in to contact with anything on the inside and mess something up in the crank case.
I'd say try to get some screws at a local store as close to OEM lengths as possible. They should all be standard metric sizes with standard length, so it's very unlikely to not find an identical length.
 

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I'd say try to get some screws at a local store as close to OEM lengths as possible. They should all be standard metric sizes with standard length, so it's very unlikely to not find an identical length.
Cool thanks again I will do that, another unrelated question but I have to ask because I can't find anything on it.
The previous owner must have overtigntened the exhaust header nuts and I went to loosen them and tighten them to spec and they sheered off not sure what to do from here because it seems I would have to take the head off to get to the bolts? And if that's the case I am gonna be upset cus that's gonna be the rest of the riding season to fix.

Wondering if the bolt that goes into the header has a head or if I can loosen it from the outside with either a vicegrip or weld a nut on to the end of the broken bolt?
 

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For the amount of heat, air, water that they see... and road salt for where I live, it's normal for those header bolts to break; particularly with age and mileage. Once you take the header off, asses the condition of the stud that remains exposed. If it looks like it will take the torque, you may be able to use parrot-nosed pliers to counter-clockwise them free. If the stud is also too badly corroded, then the options for removing that stud begin to dwindle.
 

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For the amount of heat, air, water that they see... and road salt for where I live, it's normal for those header bolts to break; particularly with age and mileage. Once you take the header off, asses the condition of the stud that remains exposed. If it looks like it will take the torque, you may be able to use parrot-nosed pliers to counter-clockwise them free. If the stud is also too badly corroded, then the options for removing that stud begin to dwindle.
It looks pretty rusted cus I'm in Wisconsin and have the road salt too, but I used some WD-40 and saw silver again but it also looked like cheap bolts almost as if they were cast lol. I was just hoping that with the little amount still sticking out of the head I could just back them out.

It is also 1, 2, & 4 pipes 3 on the outside right is fine moves as if it was loose before and the rust was holding it in place.

Just got the AI delete done too fml.
 

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Now I see all the threads on it I was searching broken exhaust header nuts, should have searched seized header bolts.
 

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I'm not sure where to find, but a left-hand threaded bolt might give you some luck? Not sure, but might worth a try.
I'd highly advise against using a torch to loosen the bolts - aluminum is already soft enough; using heat might make it even softer and threads could strip off. A lot of PB blaster is the first option.

Here's a 2nd option (tedious but should be safe):
  • Find the depth of the stud hole (maybe buy 1 OEM stud for reference) so you won't drill too deep
  • Cut off the stud that's sticking out
  • Drill a small hole through the stud for an EZ out/ bolt extractor.

377360
 
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