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I try..honest I do...
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127 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Thought I would spend a few moments going through 'YoungBull's' slipper clutch mod for the 2CO, maybe put a few worries to rest and also try to describe the various combinations of mods and thier effects.... by the way... Youngbull, I would like to thank you personally for this information post, it has spurred me into experimenting with the slipper clutch over the last 3 months.
The R6 slipper clutch is what is known as a 'ramped' slipper clutch, it works basically by having angled, shouldered ramps on the base of the clutch boss assembly, as drive is applied the clutch twists and touched the ramp shoulders, this creates full cantact and drive, however, as soon as you apply back-torque (via the rear wheel) the clutch moves in the opposite direction, thus hitting the ramps and 'skipping' over them, what allows the skipping to happen is the Y washers, they apply thrust to the whole assembly essentially reducing the skipping action, once you remove a washer, then less thrust is applied and bingo, slipper clutch action comes in withless force needed for it to slip. The R6 clutch works in the same way as a Sigma slipper clutch, a brand well known in the UK.
Youngbull mentioned removing one Y washer completely, this does have an effect howver it also allows the clutch to 'ramp' higher than spec (one washer less=higher ramp) this could effect the ball bearings on the ramps that are used to help the transition of the ramp, the ramp gap being larger could make it easier for the balls to work loose of thier ramp confinement, BUT I must stress this is very remote, almost impossible, but feasable... a solution is to remove the tangs fron the first Y washer and refit it, thus keeping the ramping within spec... for a more effective slipper action Youngbull suggests using the 0-1-0 method (first washer tangs removed, second washer standard, third washer tangs removed) this is far superior and I have used this method to great success, it works brilliantly, but on a couple of occasions tangs have snapped off of the standard washer due to stress, but again, this is VERY remote, the Y washer on its own just hasnt enough strength to constantly take the ramping abuse on its own, I then experimented with shortening various Y washers by removing different amounts from the tangs and this has been quite successful, and as yet zero failure... washer one standard, washer two 6mm removed from tangs, washer three 12mm removed from tangs, so to recap first washer on is standard, second washer on 6mm off the tangs, and then 12mm off washer three then the nut...try it, you'll love it
as long as you retain the three washers to keep the ramping within spec, and you ONLY shorten washers two and three, the variation is limitless according to what length you cut the tangs, and...as long as you accurately cut the tangs the whole thing works brilliantly
 

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Who's the Daddy?
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37 Posts
Nice write up Rob,

Do you have any pics; I am having trouble viewing Youngbull's and all I see is a Red square.
 
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