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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #22

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Damn Liberals...
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wow, impressive and extremely well written, nice job!
 

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Me and a friend finally did ours today and wow, the front sag was WAAAYYYY off!!! I swear the bike was set up for a 130 lbs girl... I haven't had the chance to do any really aggressive riding but i swear I can feel a difference.. My friend did most all the research and I basically just let him show me what to do, but after reading through your write-up I'm very confident he knew what he was talking about... I only wish I had done this like a year ago!! After just riding casually I swear the bike feels more stuck to the ground and the front doesn't dive nearly as much as it used to.. Before today I had kinda experimented with the compression and rebound settings, but I think getting the sag right was extremely important.. Maybe it's all in my head, but I know for sure that it at least isn't diving as much anymore.. GREAT write-up, after reading through it I feel even better about finally taking the time to set my bike up, I'm stoked to get more seat time with it all custom fitted!! Everyone should definitely do this!
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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3,251 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Me and a friend finally did ours today and wow, the front sag was WAAAYYYY off!!! I swear the bike was set up for a 130 lbs girl... I haven't had the chance to do any really aggressive riding but i swear I can feel a difference.. My friend did most all the research and I basically just let him show me what to do, but after reading through your write-up I'm very confident he knew what he was talking about... I only wish I had done this like a year ago!! After just riding casually I swear the bike feels more stuck to the ground and the front doesn't dive nearly as much as it used to.. Before today I had kinda experimented with the compression and rebound settings, but I think getting the sag right was extremely important.. Maybe it's all in my head, but I know for sure that it at least isn't diving as much anymore.. GREAT write-up, after reading through it I feel even better about finally taking the time to set my bike up, I'm stoked to get more seat time with it all custom fitted!! Everyone should definitely do this!
Thanks for the read, and the feedback.

I wrote this in what I feel is order of importance. It's also the order I do my suspension setups in, and having watched a few others, the same order as they do theirs.

Hopefully soon I'll be posting some troubleshooting information, followed by service and upgrades.
 

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I miss Cali rides :/
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nice write up! very noticeable difference when the bike is set up properly. i did mine about a year ago, and set up a few other people. they noticed it also right away. will be needing to do again soon since i have put alot of miles on and bike was sitting through deployment. will follow your guide to see if i missed anything in my previous setup. again, well done!
 

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Thanks for the read, and the feedback.

I wrote this in what I feel is order of importance. It's also the order I do my suspension setups in, and having watched a few others, the same order as they do theirs.

Hopefully soon I'll be posting some troubleshooting information, followed by service and upgrades.
My friend must have read your write-up or a similar one, because we did ours basically exactly in the order you described... Today is supposed to be a hot one and I mite go try and hit the canyons to get a feel for it and further fine-tune the compression and rebound settings. I'm super stoked, and ya thanks again the write-up is really helpful! :YEA
 

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vroom vroom?
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Nothing makes my eyes water more than a write up that normal people and engineers can understand. I say them in that order because these kinds of things are usual watered down so the everyday joe can understand what's going on. But in doing so they lose the accuracy afforded by using those long and confusing technical words and you'll find guys like me (BS Engineering and Business) pulling their hairs out in frustration.

Then you'll get the other side with the guys that can't speak plain English. I went to school with them and if it wasn't so detrimental to getting shit done I'd have laughed my ass off every time I saw one blumber through a presentation.

Great write up. Hits the middle ground perfectly and does a great job with descriptions and instruction. Now if my recently graduated @$$ wasn't so broke, I'd go do the work right now. Need to get the tools first. =\

Regardless.. . A+ Dan. What's your background in anyways?
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #30
Nothing makes my eyes water more than a write up that normal people and engineers can understand. I say them in that order because these kinds of things are usual watered down so the everyday joe can understand what's going on. But in doing so they lose the accuracy afforded by using those long and confusing technical words and you'll find guys like me (BS Engineering and Business) pulling their hairs out in frustration.

Then you'll get the other side with the guys that can't speak plain English. I went to school with them and if it wasn't so detrimental to getting shit done I'd have laughed my ass off every time I saw one blumber through a presentation.

Great write up. Hits the middle ground perfectly and does a great job with descriptions and instruction. Now if my recently graduated @$$ wasn't so broke, I'd go do the work right now. Need to get the tools first. =\

Regardless.. . A+ Dan. What's your background in anyways?
Thanks for the feedback.

I'm a retired US Marine and I work in computer systems. But I became extremely interested in chassis and suspension, so I try to learn from every means possible. Being broke helps because it forces me to do things myself.

In the near future I'm planning to add troubleshooting and maintenance to this thread. So hopefully it will become worth more to everyone.
 

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vroom vroom?
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Small world. I'm currently playing paperwork tag with MEPS to get medical clearance for OCS:thumbdown My OSO was trying to get me in this summer but we got held up with MEPS of course. So now I'm looking to get in October.
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #33
Small world. I'm currently playing paperwork tag with MEPS to get medical clearance for OCS:thumbdown My OSO was trying to get me in this summer but we got held up with MEPS of course. So now I'm looking to get in October.
That's always fun. Good luck with it all! :usa

thanks for the write up!
Thank you for the feedback. Hopefully it will continue to grow and be worth using.
 

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Hi Dan. Nice write up.

I have a couple comments/questions.

A little back ground. Last yr I got ahold of a guy on here (cant remember his name) and he gave me a base setup that he was putting on the 06+r6's at the track he rides at. I put it on and wow, the bike was great from there. The only problem I had was it felt unstable when really tipped over in a turn. I lowered the front ride hight (slid the forks up in the clamp) about 4mm and it was perfect. It was smooth as glass when leaned over hard.
Whats the down side to that adjustment? It does take more effort to change directions but its soo smooth now.

I did have to take a few clicks of compression damping out of the front and rear cause of the harshness around town. Took the bike to the track for the first time last yr and it was awsome all day. Im new to sportbikes so Im not really sure what a dialed bike is supposta feel like but, I could feel the front and rear tires all day long. Well, after a day of hammering on my bike the only thing I could think of that needs work (besides me) was the bike didnt want to transition onpower. Even 1/3 throttle made it push the front tire. I know my form needs some work and could throw a little more body up there but, anything in the suspention that could help??

Thanks
DK
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #35
Hi Dan. Nice write up.

I have a couple comments/questions.

A little back ground. Last yr I got ahold of a guy on here (cant remember his name) and he gave me a base setup that he was putting on the 06+r6's at the track he rides at. I put it on and wow, the bike was great from there. The only problem I had was it felt unstable when really tipped over in a turn. I lowered the front ride hight (slid the forks up in the clamp) about 4mm and it was perfect. It was smooth as glass when leaned over hard.
Whats the down side to that adjustment? It does take more effort to change directions but its soo smooth now.

I did have to take a few clicks of compression damping out of the front and rear cause of the harshness around town. Took the bike to the track for the first time last yr and it was awsome all day. Im new to sportbikes so Im not really sure what a dialed bike is supposta feel like but, I could feel the front and rear tires all day long. Well, after a day of hammering on my bike the only thing I could think of that needs work (besides me) was the bike didnt want to transition onpower. Even 1/3 throttle made it push the front tire. I know my form needs some work and could throw a little more body up there but, anything in the suspention that could help??

Thanks
DK
Thanks for the read, feedback and questions.

What type of rear shock do you have? And what are your sag numbers? Reason I ask is typically pulling the forks through the triples to lower the front quickens the steering. and it can take less effort to go into a turn, but possible a little effort to exit (get the bike to return to upright).

It's interesting that you ask about a downside the the adjustment you made. It's obvious you understand suspension a little more than you may think. There are few absolutes in suspension tuning. The same end can often be achieved in more ways than one very often. For example: you wanted to quicken your steering so you lowered the front by pulling the forks through the tubes. This will lower the front end, changing the rake angle slightly as well as decreasing the trail minutely (about 1mm for every 4mm of drop). This same offset bias could be achieved by increasing the front sag a few mm (watching for bottoming). Or, increasing the rear ride height or even sag a few mm. All the methods would have different overall affects on the chassis.

For an R6 I prefer to try to use the fork height within the tubes as a last means of adjustment. The R6 is pretty easily capable of dragging hard parts, so bringing it closer to the ground isn't something I like to do. But opinions vary. I know several that do it routinely with excellent results.

As for the push you are describing, could you be more descriptive? I am still working on my troubleshooting vocabulary. At what point in the corner are you talking? Entrance, mid corner, or exit?
 

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I understand how suspensions work but, just trying to translate it to 2 wheeled machines.

well, Im short (5'8") and tipy toe at lights as it is so, raising the back or lowering the front?.....I dropped the front. After dropping the nose it needed more muscle to tip the bike in and felt like it was slower to transition but it was way more stable when leaned over. When I raise the front it gets really light and easy to tip over. Even going from left to right it snaps right to. I love it like that but hate how unstable it gets when lean all the way over. If I breath on the bars when leaned over it wants to wonder around. Very scary to me.

I was at Gratten and between turn 3 and 4 is up hill and turn 4 is up and over the hill while leaned over. I had the hardest time getting the bike to go from full left lean to full right with out having to lift the throttle. I was pushing the front tire up the hill. Now it could have been just me but I followed a few other guys and they all were leaving me in that spot. I changed lines hoping to get a better exit on 3 so I could lift and get the bike rotated faster but nothing really worked like I thought it should so I just cruised that part of the track and worked on somthing else.

Anyway, just wondering what steps would be taken to counter somthing like that.

Oh, my bike is all stock as far as suspention goes, cept for the new ohilns fork oil. Sag is set to 30mm front and rear I believe.

Thanks
DK
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #37
I understand how suspensions work but, just trying to translate it to 2 wheeled machines.

well, Im short (5'8") and tipy toe at lights as it is so, raising the back or lowering the front?.....I dropped the front. After dropping the nose it needed more muscle to tip the bike in and felt like it was slower to transition but it was way more stable when leaned over. When I raise the front it gets really light and easy to tip over. Even going from left to right it snaps right to. I love it like that but hate how unstable it gets when lean all the way over. If I breath on the bars when leaned over it wants to wonder around. Very scary to me.

I was at Gratten and between turn 3 and 4 is up hill and turn 4 is up and over the hill while leaned over. I had the hardest time getting the bike to go from full left lean to full right with out having to lift the throttle. I was pushing the front tire up the hill. Now it could have been just me but I followed a few other guys and they all were leaving me in that spot. I changed lines hoping to get a better exit on 3 so I could lift and get the bike rotated faster but nothing really worked like I thought it should so I just cruised that part of the track and worked on somthing else.

Anyway, just wondering what steps would be taken to counter somthing like that.

Oh, my bike is all stock as far as suspention goes, cept for the new ohilns fork oil. Sag is set to 30mm front and rear I believe.

Thanks
DK
If the side to side transitions are slower and a little heavier than you might like, try lowering the front a few more mm. And mayber increase the sag to 32 mm (2mm in the tubes and 2mm increased sag). It will have you a little lower in the transitional areas but nearly the same height as now when on the throttle.

If you take this approach, keep an eye out for total front suspension travel. We want to use nearly all the suspension travel in the front without bottoming.
 

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If the side to side transitions are slower and a little heavier than you might like, try lowering the front a few more mm. And mayber increase the sag to 32 mm (2mm in the tubes and 2mm increased sag). It will have you a little lower in the transitional areas but nearly the same height as now when on the throttle.

If you take this approach, keep an eye out for total front suspension travel. We want to use nearly all the suspension travel in the front without bottoming.
That would put more weight on the front. Wouldnt that make it transition slower?

What we need is a little tuning guide. Simple stuff like softer damping in the back will give more steering mid and exiting a corner but wont turn in as fast? This way if we have a problem we can just look it up in the guide to see what certin adjusments do to handling and can pick witch change would suit it better?

DK
 

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Yamaha Blue in any color
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Discussion Starter #39
That would put more weight on the front. Wouldnt that make it transition slower?

What we need is a little tuning guide. Simple stuff like softer damping in the back will give more steering mid and exiting a corner but wont turn in as fast? This way if we have a problem we can just look it up in the guide to see what certin adjusments do to handling and can pick witch change would suit it better?

DK
That depends on if you are on the gas or off (unless you are braking, you should be on the gas 99% of the time). It will change the bias for the weight slightly forward, plus it will make the angle of the forks slightly steeper, making it transition faster.

I'm working on troubleshooting tips, but my real job keeps getting in the way. :yuk:
 

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ok, guess I was backwards. I was thinking that the more weight I put up there the slower it will react but, makes sense that the forks are at a steeper angle and react faster.

So what happens when the front gets too low? A push going in? Maybe a better chance of a low side?

DK
 
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