[8Ball]

Directly from the service manual (“that isn’t help….”)

For the primary measurement you’d use the 200 ohm range. For the secondary coil measurement you’d use the 20k ohm range. Basically you use the closest setting higher than you expect the reading to be.

 

[8Ball]

The primary numbers you have may look like they are too high, but at the low setting, put the leads together and read the resistance of the leads. Likely, you wil see .3-.4 ohms. Subtract that from the reading, and you are probably aroun 1.2 ohms. That would be close enough.

What makes you suspect bad coils? Have you sprayed water on the headers with a spray bottle to be sure they are getting hot evenly? If one seems “cooler” than the others, swap that coil with one of the hotter ones and repeat the test to see if the issue follows the coil or stays with that cylinder. If it stays put, then your issue is not the coil. It could be a spark plug, or tight valve lash, or injector, or a host of other issues. Eliminate the coil first with the water spritz test.

 

[8Ball]

Removing the cats is a big change to exhaust flow velocity (commonly referred to as back pressure) that will cause significant dips in the low end of the torque curve. The ECU flash should get back most of that, but not eliminate it completely. That’s probably your biggest issue.