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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my Greggs LED today and decided to install them on my headlight. Had my flushmounts for awhile. I think they look pretty darn spiffy together.


first pic is with the headlight signal off.



Didn't want running lights for my headlights. Wanted another signal for the front since sometimes it maybe hard to see my flushmounts during the day.

Second pic the signal is on and i have my flushmounts lights going.



3rd pic both headlight and flushmount is signaling. I have my flushmount set up as running lights and signals. Flushmounts just blinks off and on.


What do you guys think??
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Actually they are orange.. I went through http://www.greggscustoms.com they have a couple of sites where you can go to purchase the LEDs depending on where you live. I got mine through EMA-USA.com they were pretty fast on delivery since they were on the west coast about 3 buxx for shipping I got in 3 days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I thought it would be hard but I said f#$% it and just did it. Used a dremmel and grinded away at the spot where I was going to install it. I also had a vacuum running at the same time so I wouldn't get anything in the headlight casing. Took about 45 mins. That's including taking fairings apart, looking for solder, shrink wrap and etc.
 

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heebiedabajeebies!
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Here is my cheaper version of this.
It cost me $11 for the bulbs & sockets from Pepboys
It might not be as bright as the Greggs LED's but enough that
you can see it. If you can get a dual filament bulbs, then you
can integrate the signals into the running lights with a simple
wire-splicing.



 

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hey mikeeh can you tell me what part numbers the lights and sockets are? or what brand they are?
 

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heebiedabajeebies!
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R6Victor said:
hey mikeeh can you tell me what part numbers the lights and sockets are? or what brand they are?
Hey Victor, what's up man. I am sorry to tell you that I do not have the part numbers from Pepboys(since I got rid of the packaging/receipt) or recall the brand name for the socket. But it should be the one that is for the 194-type bulb. Just go to the light bulb section @ Pepboys or ask the guys there that you need 194 sockets. The bulbs are like $2 for a pair and the sockets were $4-$5ea.
Here are pics of the sockets & bulbs, the socket also comes with wires.



Also, I recently replaced the 194 bulbs with 194 LED's. I got these from AutoZone for $9.99 a pair. I got the Hyper Bulbs 4 LED wide angle Amber ones. A bit more expensive but alot brighter than the Sylvania 194's. And the LED's uses less power & last longer.
They are made by JamStrait.
Click the image to go to their site


So after getting the LEDs from jamstrait, the whole mod is still cheaper than just getting the LED's from Gregg's. I also replaced the bulbs in my flushmounts for signals.
Here is a shot of the LED's in action


Hope these help, hope you are able to find those sockets, sometimes they run out of those. But just ask the guys/gals @ Pepboys.

~Mike~ :cheers
 

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Help!!!!

Ok guys, if anyone is still reading this, I need your help, hardcore! I bought the LED and installed them, soldered them to the switch, all that is working fine, I connected them to the batter, and the cable burned, I knew it wasn't big enough from the beginning (speaker wire), but the guy at Radioshack said it would work. But anyway, so then I got and get batteries, a battery holder, and the thicker wire, and I use that, instead of the bike battery, BUT the batteries (8AA) get hot in the holder, and they only work once, meaning I turn them on, all is good, but when I flick the switch off and then on, they don't work anymore. Everytime the switch is off, the batteries get hot again. I don't know what the deal is, maybe I should just try to my battery again with the thicker wire, but I'm a little scared on how to do it, big sparks and lots of smoke last time. Little help PLEASE!!
 

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You should put a fuse on the positive wire. It sounds like your swtich maybe deffective and when it is in the "Off" position, it is causing a short.

Only a short can cause the wire and the batteries to be that hot. By all mean, put a fuse on the positive wire about 3-5 inch from the battery terminal. That way, if it is a short, the fuse will pop and the wire and battery doesn't get burn.

Try a different switch or direct the connect the wire for testing purpose.
 

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Fixed the problem

Wow, I'm so Polish. So I've always wired with switches that have three prongs, but the one I was using only has two, and I didn't know that the positives go to both terminals, and the switch just cuts the power supply flow. Fixed the problem, and the LED's look awesome! Thanks for the help.
 
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