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Discussion Starter #41
Haven't read the thread; skimmed parts of of the first page. But that and you were saying it cold-started missing, sounds like my experiences with failing spark plug coils. See my comments on testing coils here... 2005 r6

Okay I see the bike is modified. When troubleshooting, the general idea is to set things back into parameter... which often means stock. But if other things are modified, such as the exhaust, the PCIII may have been added to compensate; in which case it's best to leave it be; unless you have the original parts.
It's all over the place, nothing is consistent. It will cold start miss one day, it will run perfectly until it warms up the next, and the first few days it went away with fuel system cleaner. I think it's getting progressively more common but less annoying. I think it used to sputter up to 6k, now it seems to go away after 2 or 3k. Annoying for traffic but pretty OK around town.

The issue I'm worried about now is the cold cylinder. I switched the coils with 1 and 2 and it did nothing. I pulled the harness out (broke the clip on my cam sensor...fak!) and all the wires LOOKED fine. I don't know if there's a plug up stream where I could take it off the bike and continuity test them all?
 

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Failing ignition coils aren't necessarily consistent. Test in the manner described to eliminate the possibility.

EDIT: Just saw that you rotated them. The method described will help eliminate the wire harness/ECU... though either of those would be highly unusual from what I've seen here. The only other things that would create a cold cylinder is fueling or/and compression, as air is pretty well guaranteed. It would be unusual for compression to be the cause as cylinder wear is typically close. (unless you're running nitrous)
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
Failing ignition coils aren't necessarily consistent. Test in the manner described to eliminate the possibility.

EDIT: Just saw that you rotated them. The method described will help eliminate the wire harness/ECU... though either of those would be highly unusual from what I've seen here. The only other things that would create a cold cylinder is fueling or/and compression, as air is pretty well guaranteed. It would be unusual for compression to be the cause as cylinder wear is typically close. (unless you're running nitrous)
I pulled the coil and plug out, I was cleaning off the compression tester because it had grease and shit all up in the threads and in the bore. As I was looking at it, I noticed that the adapter was wayyyy bigger than the plug I just pulled out. Sure enough it is M18/M14 only. Probably should have known that but to be honest I didn't even open the thing until I got the plug out. I applied for a new job and it's right next door to a harbor freight so I might grab their little 30 dollar tester if I'm over there lol.

I messed around in diag mode, coil 1 and 2 were the same. Edit: they were the same on the coil 1 circuit, was testing wiring more than spark health.

I don't have a spark gap tester but I saw them arc 2 or 3 inches when I missed grounding the plug.

also I had my cylinders backwards lol. I figured (when sitting on the bike) the right most cylinder would be #1 as it has the oil and water pump as well as the timing chain. Cylinder 4 is my cold cylinder and I've been rotation coils with cylinder 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
DEBACLE! I tried taking the fuel rail off so I could test the injectors with diagnostic mode. The whole bike is put together with allens besides the fuel rail it would seem, which uses brittle philips head screws. I stripped the ever loving shit out of one of them last night. This morning I went to the hardware store and bought some socket heads to replace them. I've lost two of the large o-rings deep between the engine and transmission. It will be a week before I get new o-rings, so I think I'm just going to send my injectors out and have them cleaned and tested.

Oh, and it turns out I could have just looked down the throttle body to see the fuel spray while the engine was running...
 

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Yep, #1 is left side from the riding position.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
ugh. Guess I'm not getting those injector "gaskets" unless I take my starter off. Not much work at all but I really want to start putting my bike back together rather than taking it apart more lol. Those seals are 15 years old and so are the injectors. I really want to send them off for cleaning and new seals. Buying 4 seals and o-rings is going to be around 60 dollars, getting them tested and cleaned is 120. probably around the same wait time.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Well, I spoke to Jim at ProFlow. Cool guy, I'll definitely be sending my injectors over. He told me that the upper o-rings should be replaced and he stocks/replaces them, but the large o-rings/gaskets/seals (he informed me they're insulators) are pretty much good for the life of the bike and thus he does not stock them. That means I had to dig in my bike and get the two that were down there.

I knew the removing the starter was going to be a 5 minute job. And it was. I got my insulators back in 5 minutes. I could technically put it back together and be riding right now. Or checking the compression. The issue is that whoever put the ring terminal on the starter put it on the wrong way, so you couldn't get a wrench on it. The little plastic anti spin thing on the brush holder disintegrated and the terminal post on the starter is totally disconnected from the brushes. Yep, gotta buy a 50 dollar brush set (old ones were getting to be toast anyways) and wait for that to ship in. Tell me that's not fcking annoying.

Worse than that, I drove like a complete moron to get to horrible freight 2 minutes before they closed. I had to rush in there and grab a compression tester and I can't even use it until I fix my starter. This is nothing new to me, that's why I said I wanted to start putting my bike together rather than taking it apart more :LOL:
 

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Yeah, I am to the point of not buying any more "simple, 5 minute" projects. Stuff breaking on disassembly really chaps my hide. Bought a VF750F interceptor. First ride found a stuck front caliper. Well that turned into.replacing oem rubber parts in the caliper mounts and fork anti dive link that took a year to find. Ongoing... 3 years later, I'm replacing a chopped wiring harness and converting to coil on plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Yeah, I am to the point of not buying any more "simple, 5 minute" projects. Stuff breaking on disassembly really chaps my hide. Bought a VF750F interceptor. First ride found a stuck front caliper. Well that turned into.replacing oem rubber parts in the caliper mounts and fork anti dive link that took a year to find. Ongoing... 3 years later, I'm replacing a chopped wiring harness and converting to coil on plugs.
I blew a radiator hose wide open while 4 wheeling in the mountains. I had no choice but to drive it out of there for 10 miles with zero coolant in the truck. I knew the aluminum head was gonna be gone but I was just going to drop a cheap ebay head on the cast iron block and run it till the bottom end blew out. Would have been like 150 bucks and a day of work. Well, my 1985 model year truck had the 1984 drivetrain and not only do the 85-95 heads not fit on the 81-84 blocks, no one makes the 81-84 heads at all. Turned into buying a 1985 core block, reproduction crank, rebuilt rods, whole rebuild kit, and a performance 85-95 head among a shit load of other expenses.

All because a 12 month old chinese engine mount blew apart and put the lower rad hose into the alternator. A nail keeps a shoe...ffs. I'm just mad cause the starter is the only thing I needed right now. Could have snapped the fuel rail in half, cracked a throttle body casting, heck, broke the frame in half and still done a compression check....and I kill the starter.
 
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