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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, so my front brake felt really shitty and had little stopping power. i checked the fluid, and sure enough there wasnt a drop in there. so i bought some dot 4 fluid, and ATTEMPTED to 'bleed' the system. upon starting this, i cant get it to work for shit. i can pull the brake lever all the way to the peg, with ease. how do you properly bleed it so the brakes regain pressure? i need help bad!
 

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It sounds like air in your lines, but if the resivour was empty you might have a leak somewhere. Anyways, you can get a one man bleader kit. It's the exact same way to bleed a cars system. You can do it without the kit, but it makes a mess and brake fluid likes to eat paint and ruin surfaces. So heres my half-assed step by step.

1. Inspect for any leaks.
2. Fill the resivour with brake fluid.
3. Squeeze the brake lever a few times and hold it. With the lever held down, carefully loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper. Don't break it or you'll be screwed.
4. Once you hear either the air or see fluid squirt out of the bleeder, gently tighten the valve.

Continue step 3 and 4 until there is no more air in the line. Make sure you keep and eye on the resivour fluid level. Run out and you'll get air in the lines and you'll have to re-do it. If anybody would like to add something or have any other methods please add. I hope that helps you josh, and if worse comes to worse, get a bud that knows what they're doing. :cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
that helps but i ran out of air... im taking it to the yamaha dealership tuesday first thing when they open and have them fix it. worse comes to worse, ill buy stainless steel lines and upgrade. there are no leaks in the lines that i can see. id rather let someone else **** with it and have them cover anything if it breaks.
 

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Not quite

1. Inspect for any leaks.
2. Fill the resivour with brake fluid.
3. Squeeze the brake lever a few times and hold it. With the lever held down, carefully loosen the bleeder valve on the caliper. Don't break it or you'll be screwed.
4. Once you hear either the air or see fluid squirt out of the bleeder, gently tighten the valve.

I think the proceedure is

1 as above
2 as above
3 Losen the bleeber screw then pull the brakes. When fliud or air stop coming out tighten the screw.
4 Repeat this process untill only fluid comes out. But be sure to do it enough to purge the whole line.
5 Repeat on the other caliper.

This bleeds all the current content out of the lines replacing it with just fluid. It is also a good idea to get a small rubber tube that fits over the screw and drain it into a clean bottle. You can then reuse the fluid if its still good. Make sure to keep the fluid topped up.
 

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I think that you pump the brakes up first so you get the air bubbles into the bleeder so you waste less oil. That is how I've done it on cars when ever I do them.

The rest seems to be right. It might work out better if you have someone else pull the lever for you.
 

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Proper method to bleed the brakes.

1. Get an ice pick.
2. Stab your evil brake lines repeatedly.
3. They should be bleeding profusely by now.

Sorry, my post count was a little behind. :mrgreen:
 

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Dude go to a parts store and BUY an hydrolic bleeder....we tried to bleed my kevlar brake lines by hand and it took forever....With the bleeder it took all of 15 minutes....
 

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The steps mentioned above will work just use the bleeder instead of manually pumping the brakes.....takes forever.....also wouldn't hurt to get another set of hands in on the job...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i just did it by myself in 15 mins. pumping the brake is the easiest. i got all the air, as far as i could tell(pumped a full length of the line out with no bubbles). however, my front brakes STILL SUCK BALLS. it feels like they have no stopping power unless you pull the lever all the way... do you guys think its time for new rotors/pads? the bike has near 10k miles on it, and im pretty sure its never had new brakes... i know for a fact it hasnt had new ones since at LEAST 5800 miles, cause thats when i bought it.

do you think i should buy new pads at least, and if that doesnt fix it go with rotors?
 

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I would double check the bleeding, it almost sounds like there is still air.

However also check to see how much pad is left. The caliper only has X amount of movement, and it also could cause this type of problem.

I would try a new set of pads anyways, since 10K is a lot of miles, and I tihnk they are kinda cheap; compared to rotors that is....
 

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try holding the brake lever half way and zip tie it. next leave the resevoir cover off a bit to let it breathe. and leave the bike alone overnight. then in the morning i usually suck out all the brake fluid out with a turkey baster type thing and pour in new fluid. i used to do this on my dirt bike. the theory behind this is with the piston in the brake master is half way the air has a place to escape. since air rises up it, in theory will end up in the resevoir. i dont know the specs of dot 4 brake fluid, i dont know if it is hydorscopic(absorbs moisture). i have never played with my brakes on my 6 so i dont really have any first hand experience on this.
 

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josh6544 said:
i just did it by myself in 15 mins. pumping the brake is the easiest. i got all the air, as far as i could tell(pumped a full length of the line out with no bubbles). however, my front brakes STILL SUCK BALLS. it feels like they have no stopping power unless you pull the lever all the way... do you guys think its time for new rotors/pads? the bike has near 10k miles on it, and im pretty sure its never had new brakes... i know for a fact it hasnt had new ones since at LEAST 5800 miles, cause thats when i bought it.

do you think i should buy new pads at least, and if that doesnt fix it go with rotors?
u still have air, trust me, go and get a brake bleeeder or hydraulic bleeder. it will be so much easier and will actually get the air out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
i bought the brake bleeder... i took it by yamaha and they said that there is probably still air in there, and bleed it again. they said my pads look good, and rotors are fine. ill bleed it again tomorrow, if i have time.
 
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