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Alright boys so been having a PITA problem here. Used red lockite, on my woodcraft frame slider bolt. tried to remove it. it broke... i forgot to heat it..... so After buying ez out, and drilling out the bolt a bit, i heated that sucker up and tried to remove the bolt.... the first EZ out bolt. just stripped(second pic).... then I went and got a better set, irwin spiral extractor set..... it seemed to catch.. but then the end of the bit broke off inside the old bolt (first/third pic in the first pic you ca see the silver color in the middle is the broken spiral set)....... im just lost... i cant seem to use an extractor set to remove it... i even used a hammer drill or whatever to get the sucker out cuz at first my regular drill would catch but not enough power to unscrew it.

asking for what i should do or instructions on how to Drill this out on my own.... i dont have many of the tools, but i could go buy them... not familiar with the drill out process/tools needed so any explained help on what exactly to do and what tools would be great......

really appreciate anyone who can take the time to help.
 

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damn... you royally screwed up. Youll need some fine drill bits & a high speed drill (like from an air compressor or dremel). Drill around the perimeter of the extraction tools to get them out. THen learn to properly drill the length of the bolt. Its ~35mm long. Use tons of penetrant.
 

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ouch, yea that's a PITA for sure. Same thing just happened to me but different bolt. I have to drill it out and re-tap the hole all while worrying about not drilling to far past the frame and piercing something bad. Sucks.

Good Luck.
 

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Moderator - In Memorium
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Contact a welder to have a bolt tacked onto the broken fastener. Heat up as needed and unscrew.
 

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m3lover2
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damn... you royally screwed up. Youll need some fine drill bits & a high speed drill (like from an air compressor or dremel). Drill around the perimeter of the extraction tools to get them out. THen learn to properly drill the length of the bolt. Its ~35mm long. Use tons of penetrant.
Please do the opposite of this.




High speed is what burns the brill bits (The blue color on yours)



You can use a high speed drill just to start a small dimple.. So you can keep the drill but center. Then slowly drill it so your dont overheat your drill bit.
 

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m3lover2
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Contact a welder to have a bolt tacked onto the broken fastener. Heat up as needed and unscrew.
This is also a good idea, but will not work because that broken bolt is pretty deep in there.




What will work is putting a nut over that bolt... and welding the center..
 

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Please do the opposite of this.

High speed is what burns the brill bits (The blue color on yours)
You can use a high speed drill just to start a small dimple.. So you can keep the drill but center. Then slowly drill it so your dont overheat your drill bit.
Um... how many of these have you done? If you run the bits dry... yeap they'll over heat. Maybe you missed the "Use tons of penetrant" reco in my post.

Myself...Ive done this 2 times after the technique was demonstrated to me by an expert machinist. I have a better set of extraction tools and a good set of indexed drill bits. Aint no way youre drilling out a hardened extraction bit after you break it.
 

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You CANNOT use heat on a screw extractor, they will strip and break every time. And yes, go woth the weld a nut on the broken bolt trick, that is the slickest thing you will ever see.
 

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Use a sharp punch to make a dimple in the center
Use a small bit first
Use light pressure (about what the weight of the drill would be if you were drilling straight down) and low speed
Tap oil would be best, but PB blast will do

Basically, make a mark as perfectly centered on the broken bolt as possible
Line your center punch up on the mark and smack it with a hammer, take your time, if you mess this step up it'll cost you a lot of time

Now since you have hardened steel broken off in there, you bought a couple high quality bits, right? good.

Begin to drill slowly with lots of oil/pb blast, this will be your pilot hole.
Bring the bit out every now and then and oil it, or PB blast it for cooling/cleaning purposes

Once you have that hole drilled down a good bit of the length of the broken bolt you can step up the size of the bit and repeat the process, try not to drill quite as far this time.

Move up to your final bit which should be just a little smaller than the bolt, think of it as being a very little bit smaller than the bolt would be if it didn't have threads, or a bit from a tap and die set that corresponds to that size bolt (example: M8 x 1.25)

Now don't drill down quite as far as last time.
Does your bolt extractor fit better now?
Smack the extractor with a hammer a couple times (not trying to break anything) and then use a tool, preferably one that you would use on a tap for re-threading bolt holes, and determine if the bolt can now be backed out with an extractor.
I've only ever done more damage with an extractor attached to a drill than good.

If you piddle with that for a while with no luck it's time to drill deeper, which will be best done by starting with the small drill bit again.
once you're threw with the last bit if you haven't damaged the old threads a tap of the same size bolt will clean out the remaining bolt.
If you didn't get it just right, you're going up a bolt size, so you'll need a tap for the next bolt size up and a drill bit.

Prepare to spend a lot of time, the more time you spend getting it centered the less headache you're likely to encounter toward the end.

Any more questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to help you out.

This procedure is simply my opinion and may or may not be the best or correct method.

EDIT: The easiest method is definitely having a nut welded on the end, see above if not an option
 

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UR B-hind Da 8 Ball
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Does it escape everyone...except Turboblew.... that there is a broken extractor in the bolt?
 

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This might have been mentioned, and I don't think this will matter at this point if you've broken off a hardened steel extractor inside the hole, but one thing that really makes a difference when first starting off is to use left hand drill bits when you're drilling out the old broken bolt. I've had to drill out numerous bolts, and I've actually had a couple come out during the drilling process, just by using left-hand drill bits. The bold will slowly loosen as you drill, as opposed to tightening even further with a normal right-hand drill bit.
 

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nom nom nom nom nom nom
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Um... how many of these have you done? If you run the bits dry... yeap they'll over heat. Maybe you missed the "Use tons of penetrant" reco in my post.

Myself...Ive done this 2 times after the technique was demonstrated to me by an expert machinist. I have a better set of extraction tools and a good set of indexed drill bits. Aint no way youre drilling out a hardened extraction bit after you break it.
You said "Penetrant", not "lubricant". I read that as "use a lot of penetrant", not "use a lot of lubricant"


Does it escape everyone...except Turboblew.... that there is a broken extractor in the bolt?


Use a drill and buy a cheap screw extractor set from wal mart/canadian tire/any tool store
That sounds exactly like why he had this problem.

Please read the whole thread, or at least the first post. HERE is a nice link about how to read threads.
 

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nom nom nom nom nom nom
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so they are not synonymous?? :lmao :secret
Well you gotta gave the lube if you want to penetrate. Nobody likes it when you go in dry.



Penetrating oil and cutting oil have different requirements. Will one work in the place of the other? In a pinch? Sure, but never as well as the real thing. If you are using WD-40 as a cutting fluid and a penetrant, you are missing out.
 
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