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Hey all. New to the forum, new to motorcycles in general. I am an automotive technician by trade, just got my first bike about a month ago. I’ll do a quick background first:

The bike is a 2001 R6. Just shy of 50k miles. I acquired it through a trade for one of my cars that I had listed for sale. I don’t have a whole lot of information about the bike prior to me taking ownership. It’s pretty a pretty vague history; there was evidence of it being layed down on both sides, but seemed like minor damage and I believe it had frame sliders.

It had an issue with dying when coming to a stop; I’ve rebuilt the carbs with a AllBalls rebuild kit, cleaned everything thoroughly during the rebuild. It runs better, but idles high, and if I adjust the idle using the adjustment dial, it starts dying at stops again. If I let the idle stay high at around 1600-1700 it runs fine but if I adjust it down to spec, around 1300, it dies at stops and when blipping the throttle. It dips too low on the comedown and sputters, only recovers half the time. I’ve decided to perform a valve clearance inspection and adjustment, as it also becomes harder to restart when warm. Also once I get the valves done I plan to check and adjust the pilot jetting for the carbs, as they are currently just set to the stock 2 turns out and I didn’t try to tune that at all after the rebuild, only did a carb synch using the CarbTune device that I’m sure everyone is familiar with. During the work for the valves, I am also going to do an oil and filter change, new spark plugs, and a new fuel filter.

My purpose for this post is to ask if anyone can point out anything I’m overlooking that I should take care of during this tear down. I’m hoping to get everything major done this time around and be able to get at least a decent year of riding practice before I have to take it back down again for anything major.

I’ve considered cooling parts; thermostat, water pump. The water pump appears to be external from the motor, simply a housing with rebuildable internals, can anyone confirm? And on that note, can anyone give me an idea about its life cycle on these bikes?

I also considered a new timing chain and or guides and tensioner... thoughts?

And anything else I’m overlooking, that can be done during the same tear down to reduce more labor in the future?

FYI: I do plan on a chain and sprockets soon as well. And I don’t need any info about the oil or filters or plugs. All OEM ready to be ordered. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I place it.
 

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the first gen R6 (1999 to 2002) did not like aftermarket air filters. if you can't take it to a tuner and try new jets put the stock foam air filter in it. you can look up Ivans jet kits. they put together a jet kit for that gen that a lot of guys was running and said it worked good. I have no experience with it. this too could be the reason it doesn't idle.

the water pump is rebuildable. the housing was known for developing a leak at the small hose barb. not sure how long one typically lasts. I think it's mainly the seal you need to worry about. keep the coolant changed every 2 years and you'll probably never have to worry about it.

while you're in there I would replace the timing chain and guides. check the operation of the chain tensioner. it's a spring type and in my opinion better than the one being used now that operates via oil pressure.

if you need a factory service manual one is available on the R6messagenet in the maintenance section.
 

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Thanks, I appreciate the thoughtful and informative response as opposed to the usual “search” I’m new to this forum but have been a member of many automotive forums for years and I don’t post often but I read and search a lot.


I do want to do the timing chain, guides, and tensioner; I’ve found the chain and guides on various sites that offer oem parts: partzilla, bikebandit, revzilla... but haven’t been able to find the oem automatic tensioner. I’d rather not do a manual tensioner just yet because I don’t have any intention on running this bike hard anytime remotely soon and would rather not have the doubt about the manual tensioner unless I start to track the bike and want to spend more time “under the hood” so to speak. Any idea where I can get a new oem tensioner?

I’ve heard the same about the aftermarket air filters, I haven’t actually physically checked yet if it’s stock or not. I’ll add that to my list while I have everything torn down. Thanks for the reminder.

I actually do already have pdf files of the FSM, Owners manual, and supplemental service manual for 2001 specific; managed to find those before I even got the bike. They’re great, and pretty damn thorough, just difficult to navigate at times. But I do refer to them consistently.

Is there anything that we haven’t already covered that you would recommend I replace, or at least check? I don’t own my own compression gauge though I could probably borrow one from my shop, I just have a suspicion that there’s not going to be an adapter that fits the threads of the bike. Also I do own a leak down tester but my home compressor is a bit weak and again, I don’t think it will fit the threads
 

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Check the rectifier/regulator- they run destructively hot on gen1's, damages the wires and plugs. Various cooler running aftermarket alternatives exist.

Airbox cleanout and replacement of filter very important. My 99's filter was crumbling when i got the bike last year.

change the plugs too- mine were likely the originals.. helped idling and off-idling performance a lot
 

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Check the rectifier/regulator- they run destructively hot on gen1's, damages the wires and plugs. Various cooler running aftermarket alternatives exist.

Airbox cleanout and replacement of filter very important. My 99's filter was crumbling when i got the bike last year.

change the plugs too- mine were likely the originals.. helped idling and off-idling performance a lot
I’m kinda surprised I’m not getting a**hole replies so far. Seemed like a pretty regular occurrence from what I’ve seen :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for the tip. I have read that the electrical system on this bike is prone to issues. Any tips for aftermarket alternatives, or should I just go with oem?

I’ll add an oem air filter to my order. Surely wouldn’t hurt to just go ahead and replace it.
 

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I’m kinda surprised I’m not getting a**hole replies so far. Seemed like a pretty regular occurrence from what I’ve seen :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for the tip. I have read that the electrical system on this bike is prone to issues. Any tips for aftermarket alternatives, or should I just go with oem?

I’ll add an oem air filter to my order. Surely wouldn’t hurt to just go ahead and replace it.
F***, the oem air filter is $48... I’m gonna have to wait til I tear it down, and inspect it. If it’s aftermarket or looking shoddy I’ll replace it but I’m not gonna spend $50 on an air filter if it’s not needed, God DAYUM! I’ll replace it in a few months for the piece of mind but this bill is already running up and I’m just a lowly mechanic lol, can’t drop that kind of coin for no reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Check the rectifier/regulator- they run destructively hot on gen1's, damages the wires and plugs. Various cooler running aftermarket alternatives exist.

Airbox cleanout and replacement of filter very important. My 99's filter was crumbling when i got the bike last year.

change the plugs too- mine were likely the originals.. helped idling and off-idling performance a lot
Revzilla shows OE “Rectifier/Regulator Assembly” for $129. Do you think it’s worth it to go OEM in this situation or would I be better off with something aftermarket, and if so, do you have any recommendations? Or at least point me in the right direction?

I will say that the electrical side of the bike seems to be operating fine. Battery doesn’t seem to have any parasitic draws, I’ve let it sit for a couple weeks while I was doing the carb rebuild and it started right up nice and strong when I finally got back to it. All lighting seems to be working fine (besides the fact that the headlights have been dual modded, poorly I might add) that reminds me, I’m gonna order a used front lighting sub harness off of eBay.

Edit: just realized I triple posted. Honestly I don’t know how strict you guys are about that type of shit on this forum, because I didn’t read the rules. I’ve been a member of enough forums that it’s all pretty common sense by now, but I know it’s a no-no on other forums and I do apologize if I’m breaking rules. Mods, edit my shit and make it one post and delete my others or reduce my post count or whatever. I’m not just trying to up my post count, I could care less about post count. Genuinely sorry for the triple post!
 

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OEM rectifier/reg is the problem on the gen 1, a new one will be just as bad. there are a number of threads on here about it. it works fine electrically but the heat it lets off is problematic. the win is to put on an aftermarket alternative that runs cooler.

yeah the air filter $$$ but it lasts- i put an emgo in mine... at least open up the airbox and clean the bugs and dirt out, maybe yours wont be falling apart.
 

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Test compressions as well on all 4 cylinders, especially since you don't have much history on its past usage. And if you're gonna open up the crank case, check 2nd and 5th gear cogs. If you see any pitting or any other damage, replace them. Also inspect the shift forks and shift cam slots. I have also heard of cases with bent shift lever, which causes the return spring to break. Those era 600cc transmissions were notorious for grinding 2nd gear. 5th gear is meshed with 2nd (if I remember correctly, you'll have to double check), so if you replace 2nd, also replace 5th.

Cheapcycleparts has free shipping on $125+ purchases I think. But if you can find a low-mileage totaled bike with transmission intact (keyword: intact), you may take a risk with that. Bikebandit used to be great some 6-7 years ago. But lately their shipping and customer service were less than satisfactory. My personal opinions are free, so take them for what they're worth. Never bought anything from Partzilla or Revzilla.
 

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Revzilla shows OE “Rectifier/Regulator Assembly” for $129. Do you think it’s worth it to go OEM in this situation or would I be better off with something aftermarket, and if so, do you have any recommendations? Or at least point me in the right direction?

I will say that the electrical side of the bike seems to be operating fine. Battery doesn’t seem to have any parasitic draws, I’ve let it sit for a couple weeks while I was doing the carb rebuild and it started right up nice and strong when I finally got back to it. All lighting seems to be working fine (besides the fact that the headlights have been dual modded, poorly I might add) that reminds me, I’m gonna order a used front lighting sub harness off of eBay.

Edit: just realized I triple posted. Honestly I don’t know how strict you guys are about that type of shit on this forum, because I didn’t read the rules. I’ve been a member of enough forums that it’s all pretty common sense by now, but I know it’s a no-no on other forums and I do apologize if I’m breaking rules. Mods, edit my shit and make it one post and delete my others or reduce my post count or whatever. I’m not just trying to up my post count, I could care less about post count. Genuinely sorry for the triple post!
the only aftermarket company I trust since I've previously worked at a dealership as a mechanic is Rick's motorsport electrics. and we don't care if you're a post whore loll.

Thanks, I appreciate the thoughtful and informative response as opposed to the usual “search” I’m new to this forum but have been a member of many automotive forums for years and I don’t post often but I read and search a lot.


I do want to do the timing chain, guides, and tensioner; I’ve found the chain and guides on various sites that offer oem parts: partzilla, bikebandit, revzilla... but haven’t been able to find the oem automatic tensioner. I’d rather not do a manual tensioner just yet because I don’t have any intention on running this bike hard anytime remotely soon and would rather not have the doubt about the manual tensioner unless I start to track the bike and want to spend more time “under the hood” so to speak. Any idea where I can get a new oem tensioner?

I’ve heard the same about the aftermarket air filters, I haven’t actually physically checked yet if it’s stock or not. I’ll add that to my list while I have everything torn down. Thanks for the reminder.

I actually do already have pdf files of the FSM, Owners manual, and supplemental service manual for 2001 specific; managed to find those before I even got the bike. They’re great, and pretty damn thorough, just difficult to navigate at times. But I do refer to them consistently.

Is there anything that we haven’t already covered that you would recommend I replace, or at least check? I don’t own my own compression gauge though I could probably borrow one from my shop, I just have a suspicion that there’s not going to be an adapter that fits the threads of the bike. Also I do own a leak down tester but my home compressor is a bit weak and again, I don’t think it will fit the threads
partzilla is another site that sells oem parts at a discount. as for an adapter, so far every kit i've had my hands on has an adapter that fits the R6. I have a craftsman kit and it has one. too bad sears is gone because you could get that kit for $65. and it's a damn decent compression tester kit. you might find one on ebay. I wouldn't go too crazy with buying stuff and worrying about what to fix in the engine. to be honest, it's so old it's not worth it. they were also known to have a 2nd gear problem. the stock gears only have 3 dogs on them to engage with one another. if they got rounded off too much under hard acceleration in 2nd gear it would momentarily slip out of gear. if the bike has this problem you can buy a transmission assembly from a 2nd gen R6 aka the R6s. it's a direct fit no mods needed. starting with the 2nd gen in 2003 yamaha put 5 dogs on the gears. thus eliminating the problem forever. the problem vanished.

F***, the oem air filter is $48... I’m gonna have to wait til I tear it down, and inspect it. If it’s aftermarket or looking shoddy I’ll replace it but I’m not gonna spend $50 on an air filter if it’s not needed, God DAYUM! I’ll replace it in a few months for the piece of mind but this bill is already running up and I’m just a lowly mechanic lol, can’t drop that kind of coin for no reason.
welcome to motorcycles. where parts are way overpriced for no reason. $48 for a stock air filter is quite good actually. aftermarket you're looking at $70 - $200
you want sticker shock? check this out, (notice the price is EA), https://www.superbikeunlimited.com/brembo-108mm-p4.3438-monobloc-with-nickel-coating-right?search=brembo&page=2
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
the only aftermarket company I trust since I've previously worked at a dealership as a mechanic is Rick's motorsport electrics. and we don't care if you're a post whore loll.



partzilla is another site that sells oem parts at a discount. as for an adapter, so far every kit i've had my hands on has an adapter that fits the R6. I have a craftsman kit and it has one. too bad sears is gone because you could get that kit for $65. and it's a damn decent compression tester kit. you might find one on ebay. I wouldn't go too crazy with buying stuff and worrying about what to fix in the engine. to be honest, it's so old it's not worth it. they were also known to have a 2nd gear problem. the stock gears only have 3 dogs on them to engage with one another. if they got rounded off too much under hard acceleration in 2nd gear it would momentarily slip out of gear. if the bike has this problem you can buy a transmission assembly from a 2nd gen R6 aka the R6s. it's a direct fit no mods needed. starting with the 2nd gen in 2003 yamaha put 5 dogs on the gears. thus eliminating the problem forever. the problem vanished.


welcome to motorcycles. where parts are way overpriced for no reason. $48 for a stock air filter is quite good actually. aftermarket you're looking at $70 - $200
you want sticker shock? check this out, (notice the price is EA), https://www.superbikeunlimited.com/brembo-108mm-p4.3438-monobloc-with-nickel-coating-right?search=brembo&page=2
Awesome, great info. I’m going to hold off on the transmission stuff for the moment because I haven’t felt anything in that sense to be concerned about, but I’ll keep it in mind down the line.

As for the air filter I really don’t have a problem dropping $50 on one, it’s just with everything else I’m spending money on, parts, gear, etc, I can’t justify preemptively ordering one without having actually inspecting what I’m currently not working with. I’ll be tearing the bike back down tomorrow so I’ll know then whether or not I need to order one.

Finally, the rectifier regulator;

Found that one based on your recommendation. Looks to me like what has been talked about. Looks good to you?

And could you give me a brief rundown of what exactly happens when the OE unit overheats? Are we talking like, melted harness? Damaging other electronic components? Charging system failure?

Edit: and yeah I’ve noticed the astronomical prices on some parts that makes no sense hahaha... my tank petcock leaks slowly when closed so I was going to replace it thinkin it would cost maybe $40... ended up finding it to be north of $200 and was just baffled.
 

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Awesome, great info. I’m going to hold off on the transmission stuff for the moment because I haven’t felt anything in that sense to be concerned about, but I’ll keep it in mind down the line.

As for the air filter I really don’t have a problem dropping $50 on one, it’s just with everything else I’m spending money on, parts, gear, etc, I can’t justify preemptively ordering one without having actually inspecting what I’m currently not working with. I’ll be tearing the bike back down tomorrow so I’ll know then whether or not I need to order one.

Finally, the rectifier regulator;

Found that one based on your recommendation. Looks to me like what has been talked about. Looks good to you?

And could you give me a brief rundown of what exactly happens when the OE unit overheats? Are we talking like, melted harness? Damaging other electronic components? Charging system failure?

Edit: and yeah I’ve noticed the astronomical prices on some parts that makes no sense hahaha... my tank petcock leaks slowly when closed so I was going to replace it thinkin it would cost maybe $40... ended up finding it to be north of $200 and was just baffled.
yes the melted connector was it's biggest issue. the wiring heats up from corrosion. if it's charging 14v at a min of 5000 rpm it's in working condition.
 

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Cool, thanks for all the help. To everyone who replied, thanks. I think I’m going to hold off on the rectifier as well, for now. I’ll probably replace it after a couple more paychecks just out of precaution. My main concern right now is just to get it running right and idling right so I can start getting used to it and be able to practice braking and getting going from a stop, and once I’m comfortable with emergency braking and clutch engagement I’ll move on to slow speed maneuvers and u-turns and the like before I take it into real world situations. Thanks again.
 

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You can certainly help the OEM reg/rec by unplugging it, clean the terminals, spread a small dab of bulb grease on the connector block to make removal easier later. some relocate the unit to the underside or side of the battery tray to get it out into the airstream- cool it off a bit. other folks have mounted fans.. Before replacing mine i tried a heatsink plate, didnt help noticably- it will get hot enough to burn you.
 

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............... there was evidence of it being layed down on both sides, but seemed like minor damage and I believe it had frame sliders. .................
 

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Thanks for sharing those. They would worry me if I hadn’t already looked over the frame throughly and hadn’t checked the engine mounting bolts. They turn smoothly and I have retorqued them down. The scratches are very minor, I don’t think it could have been at a significant speed. All of the welds on the frame are solid and it looks to be in fine shape.
I’ll keep an eye out for anything concerning though while I’m going through everything again.

I just got all of the fairings back off and the tank, pulled the air filter and to me it looks like it’s in alright shape. I’ll try to attach a picture, see if anyone has any thoughts on it. It’s a little bit dirty. Being foam, I believe it can be cleaned, yes? Any advice on best method or substances to clean them?
 

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Hey all. New to the forum, new to motorcycles in general. I am an automotive technician by trade, just got my first bike about a month ago. I’ll do a quick background first:

The bike is a 2001 R6. Just shy of 50k miles. I acquired it through a trade for one of my cars that I had listed for sale. I don’t have a whole lot of information about the bike prior to me taking ownership. It’s pretty a pretty vague history; there was evidence of it being layed down on both sides, but seemed like minor damage and I believe it had frame sliders.

It had an issue with dying when coming to a stop; I’ve rebuilt the carbs with a AllBalls rebuild kit, cleaned everything thoroughly during the rebuild. It runs better, but idles high, and if I adjust the idle using the adjustment dial, it starts dying at stops again. If I let the idle stay high at around 1600-1700 it runs fine but if I adjust it down to spec, around 1300, it dies at stops and when blipping the throttle. It dips too low on the comedown and sputters, only recovers half the time. I’ve decided to perform a valve clearance inspection and adjustment, as it also becomes harder to restart when warm. Also once I get the valves done I plan to check and adjust the pilot jetting for the carbs, as they are currently just set to the stock 2 turns out and I didn’t try to tune that at all after the rebuild, only did a carb synch using the CarbTune device that I’m sure everyone is familiar with. During the work for the valves, I am also going to do an oil and filter change, new spark plugs, and a new fuel filter.

My purpose for this post is to ask if anyone can point out anything I’m overlooking that I should take care of during this tear down. I’m hoping to get everything major done this time around and be able to get at least a decent year of riding practice before I have to take it back down again for anything major.

I’ve considered cooling parts; thermostat, water pump. The water pump appears to be external from the motor, simply a housing with rebuildable internals, can anyone confirm? And on that note, can anyone give me an idea about its life cycle on these bikes?

I also considered a new timing chain and or guides and tensioner... thoughts?

And anything else I’m overlooking, that can be done during the same tear down to reduce more labor in the future?

FYI: I do plan on a chain and sprockets soon as well. And I don’t need any info about the oil or filters or plugs. All OEM ready to be ordered. Just want to make sure I’m not missing anything before I place it.
Does it have an aftermarket exhaust as well? In that case you would reset the needle height as well as the jetting. Does it have problems with cold starts or hot starts?

Compression and leak down would have been my first checks as they require barely any time at all and can save time and money. Test coils for primary and secondary resistance.

If compression is out of spec, do a leak down. If the leak down is more than 12% listen through the airbox, exhaust, and oil fill hole. That will tell you whether it's the rings, exhaust or intake valve or seats. Get a top end kit (pistons, rings, wrist pins, bearings, gaskets) if you plan on keeping it for a while. Just my two cents
 

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Does it have an aftermarket exhaust as well? In that case you would reset the needle height as well as the jetting. Does it have problems with cold starts or hot starts?

Compression and leak down would have been my first checks as they require barely any time at all and can save time and money. Test coils for primary and secondary resistance.

If compression is out of spec, do a leak down. If the leak down is more than 12% listen through the airbox, exhaust, and oil fill hole. That will tell you whether it's the rings, exhaust or intake valve or seats. Get a top end kit (pistons, rings, wrist pins, bearings, gaskets) if you plan on keeping it for a while. Just my two cents
It’s stock piping but has a Yoshimura slip on. Cold starts have no problem, I use the choke and it works flawlessly. Let it run for 30 seconds or so then wean off the choke and it never has an issue. Has a little trouble with hot starts which is why I was suspecting valve lash but I finally got around to measuring and all 16 are in spec.
Can you elaborate some on what you mean by resetting needle height, or if that even still applies with it just being a slip-on?
I’ll be doing a bunch of work on it Thursday, my Mac guy comes to the shops on Wednesdays; I might just say screw it and finally invest in a compression kit. Anyone know off the top of their heads, the diameter/thread pitch of these plugs? Actually nevermind, I’ll bring one in and check it if I can’t find the info somewhere online or in the service manual. I’m sure I can find it somewhere.
I have a leak down tester, just not sure my home compressor has enough balls to be able to use it. I’ll run the tests on Thursday since everything is still relatively open.

I am interested in anything you can tell me carb related, though. This is pretty much the first carburetor I’ve ever really dealt with.
 

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Before I rejetted my old Bandit it was a bit fussy with warm starts- if you're still on the stock jets then that could be a contributor. My 99's prev owner put in a Dynojet kit which I've not messed with because the engine is running well- cold start needs enrichener for a bit, warm starts generally don't.
 

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What do you spark plugs look like? That's a real good indication of whether your jetting is correct. Your looking for a nice even burn with the end of the threads nice and mocha colored. If you look down into the ceramic part, it should change drastically in color. The more white and chalky, too lean/ not enough fuel. Dark and wet, too much gas.

The 01 carbs have a fuel mixture screw as opposed to air mixture so if you don't have correct jetting, you're limited in your range of adjustment.

You can adjust the needle height by adding a spacer(s) but if you're running rich, you definitely have to change jetting.

Basic jetting works like this:
0-1/4 throttle is the pilot jet and mixture screw
1/8 to about 3/4 throttle is your needle jet (height and size), in direct correspondence to the full throttle, which is your main jet. This is also affected at different rpm ranges. Carbs are a pain in the ass because they don't work at every range. Elevation affects it as well due to atmospheric pressure and oxygen levels. Basically find a good baseline, go out and test all throttle positions at a few different rpm ranges and that will tell you which of the jetting is your issue. Hope that helps
 
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