[Raf]

Hello I'm new and this is my first post.

I installed new rear rotor and brake pads about 300 miles ago.

I can see uneven wear on the rotor and pads. I have cleaned calipers, changed brake fluid and bleed.

Is it still bedding in or please help me ?

 

[mordantly]

You have dirty slide pins, or bent pins, stuck piston, or you were way to agresdive on the pads if those pads were brand new as well. New pads need light braking for a couple hundred miles to fully seat the contact surfaces to the rotor. In a car 300 miles is plenty. Rear brakes hardly get used by most people, so expect 500 miles light use.

 

[Raf]

You have dirty slide pins, or bent pins, stuck piston, or you were way to agresdive on the pads if those pads were brand new as well. New pads need light braking for a couple hundred miles to fully seat the contact surfaces to the rotor. In a car 300 miles is plenty. Rear brakes hardly get used by most people, so expect 500 miles light use.

Thank so much for your reply. I found a rust on the slide pin. So pads propably struggling to move. I'll order new pin and apply very light coat of copper grease ??

I cleaned piston and I am able to push it by hand and also checked operation by rear break.

 

[mordantly]

Polish them with sand paper, and maybe the pads will correct themselves if you reverse them and still have a flat rotor.

 

[Raf]

Polish them with sand paper, and maybe the pads will correct themselves if you reverse them and still have a flat rotor.

That's what I done before installing new pads, I cleaned with P400 sand paper and after that rust appeared. New pin coming Thursday.

 

[Intuit]

This side of the pad, rests on the carrier, which is basically just a ledge.

What happens over time is, the pads wear a deep grove in it. That grove prevents them from backing-off and moving like they should. Only resolution is to replace the brake caliper carrier. While there might be some way to improvise, you generally don't mess around when it comes to brakes. The rear brake was not designed to STOP the bike... only slow the bike. So if it's being over utilized, this will cause the aforementioned damage.

They call it "bracket support" in this diagram [#10] and, good luck finding one.

Inspect your existing one. The damage if present, will be obvious.

 

[Raf]

This side of the pad, rests on the carrier, which is basically just a ledge.
View attachment 378019
What happens over time is, the pads wear a deep grove in it. That grove prevents them from backing-off and moving like they should. Only resolution is to replace the brake caliper carrier. While there might be some way to improvise, you generally don't mess around when it comes to brakes. The rear brake was not designed to STOP the bike... only slow the bike. So if it's being over utilized, this will cause the aforementioned damage.

They call it "bracket support" in this diagram [#10] and, good luck finding one.

View attachment 378020

Inspect your existing one. The damage if present, will be obvious.

Thank you for your help, I have inspected today bracket support and can't see any damage. I've applied grease on the pin and spring/clip and will see tommorow if it improved.

Also my old pads been wearing on an angle but that's how I bought bike. My old rotor below to compare.

 

[Intuit]

Cool. As the others stated, cleanup and relube the slide mounts.

What year is your cycle? My 2nd-Gen lacks that replaceable metal seat altogether. (it's just the bare metal support bracket)

 

[Raf]

Cool. As the others stated, cleanup and relube the slide mounts.

What year is your cycle? My 2nd-Gen lacks that replaceable metal seat altogether. (it's just the bare metal support bracket)

Yamaha R6 2003

 

[Intuit]

Well alrighty then; thanks for the info. I'll be visiting the motorcycle shop to see if they have the seat.