the leading edge, most inner side, that would contact the rotor first when you are putting the rear wheel in .. just putting a 45deg angle on that leading edge so there is a "^" that the rotor slides into instead of hitting square edges. The more you grind (making the bevel larger) the less surface area of the actual pad makes contact with the rotor surface. As the pad wears, the bevel will go away, so ya need to eventually hit the brake pad edge with the file/grinder again.
yup. That is the case. it has limitations obviously (right handers) but is a tool that with practice, can be useful. The sooner one starts trying it, the sooner they are comfortable.In theory use of the rear brake while leaned over brings the bike back around if you're drifting out.
I could be off but I believe I read this in one of the motorcycle racing technique books.
i don't know about that one.. air bubbles are funny things, and the "soft/spongy" feel won't always be consistent. You would be better off bleeding the lines properly, and then doing what Scott Russell suggested in the vid (in my opinion).. of lowering the pedal, bevel/cut the pads, and if really going extreme, lightening the rear rotor for less surface area (along with beveling the pads).Another thing I've seen/been told is to not bleed the brakes as well as you would for the front which results in a soft/spongy lever. This way if you still somehow manage to stomp on the brake it's not (theoretically) going to lock the rear wheel since there is air in the line but you'll still have significant stopping power.