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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Yamaha r6, and I've noticed the bike is loosing oil. I checked for leaks, and its not leaking anywhere. I went to do a coolant flush because I was going from distilled water to engine ice and I noticed it was pissing a nice mix of Motul and distilled water. I also noticed the bike looses oil as I ride it through the week to work and back and out on the weekends, its not too bad but its noticeable on starts sometimes, sounds like the head isn't getting enough oil on startup and settles down. Bike runs strong no issues other than when I ride it hard keeping the rpms high my oil light consistently comes on. I filled the bike with oil near the top of the dipstick and for some reason when I keep it pinned riding hard the oil light comes on. If I settle down and keep the rpms under 12k the oil light goes away, but once I get on the throttle it comes right back. Im worried about blowing the motor as this is my second motor in the bike. Any solutions?? please help! The motor has about 8k miles on it and I run Motul 300v 10w40 if it helps to know. Thank you for any advice given, id like to hopefully avoid taking the motor apart if I can.
 

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LHRB
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What do you mean the coolant was a mix of "motul and water?" You definitely detected oil in the coolant? Oil should float to the top if you let that sit.

How do you check your oil level?
Dipstick should be inserted but not screwed in with the bike level. Not tilted front to back or side to side.

Sounds like your oil level is low.

Besides that, it is not unusual for the R6 to consume some oil if you ride regularly at high RPMs.

Mine always does, and many report the same oil consumption issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What do you mean the coolant was a mix of "motul and water?" You definitely detected oil in the coolant? Oil should float to the top if you let that sit.

How do you check your oil level?
Dipstick should be inserted but not screwed in with the bike level. Not tilted front to back or side to side.

Sounds like your oil level is low.

Besides that, it is not unusual for the R6 to consume some oil if you ride regularly at high RPMs.

Mine always does, and many report the same oil consumption issue.
I am aware how to check the oil level but the oil light comes on even though the bike has oil level full up to the top of the dipstick markings, I wish I had pictures of what it looked like. I had swapped to a new motor and in a rush to get it running again I used distilled water instead of coolant, since I heard some people run it in warmer weather and at the track ( I live in Maryland and it has been really hot this summer so no risk of freezing my "coolant"). so when I went to flush the system and switch to engine ice my distilled water came out pure green, instead of clear like the water that was in it. And it was definitely mostly Motul since it was shimmery and floating to the top. Good to know oil consumption is a regular thing on the r6. could It be the head gasket going bad? its a new motor with 7k miles
 

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Well over 60k and it doesn't consume oil but I'm always in the appropriate gear. I don't read about oil consumption on these forums. Leaks are another matter; typically related to crash damage. I just replaced a non-OEM silicon seal out of the oil fill cap for leaking.

Don't know about 3rd Gen but 2nd Gen just has an oil level switch. It does not read oil pressure.

Furthering on Pard's comments, at high RPM, the oil pump may pull more oil out of the crankcase faster than is able to drip back down. With borderline oil level, you will get an engine light. To verify whether this is the issue, add another 1/2 quart of oil. I filled mine on the sidestand for years which amounts to 1/2~3/4 more. It's not going to hurt it. If your oil light ceases, you've discovered the issue.

Regarding oil/coolant mix, do you have coolant in your oil? While oil in coolant isn't very impactful, the reverse very much is. There are pump-up cooling system pressure testers that help locate leaks. Just keep in mind that the default config is just a measly 1 bar of pressure. Leaks can also be dependent up on engine temp. So try to locate it on a hot engine if are unable to locate on a room temp engine.
 
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LHRB
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To clarify, street riding is not the same as track riding in terms of RPM range being used and oil consumption.

After a track day running the engine near redline, some oil will be consumed mostly due to oil getting past the seals, so I am told. Talking single digit ounces, not quarts of consumption.

Street riding at 10K or below will not cause the same stress on seals. Oil should not be consumed to any significant degree.

OP said he runs above 12k regularly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
To clarify, street riding is not the same as track riding in terms of RPM range being used and oil consumption.

After a track day running the engine near redline, some oil will be consumed mostly due to oil getting past the seals, so I am told. Talking single digit ounces, not quarts of consumption.

Street riding at 10K or below will not cause the same stress on seals. Oil should not be consumed to any significant degree.

OP said he runs above 12k regularly.
I run my bike regularly over 10k rpms, it rarely sees any riding under 10k unless im pulling off from a stop light really. Most of my miles come from highway riding and keeping it pinned. should I replace the water pump seals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well over 60k and it doesn't consume oil but I'm always in the appropriate gear. I don't read about oil consumption on these forums. Leaks are another matter; typically related to crash damage. I just replaced a non-OEM silicon seal out of the oil fill cap for leaking.

Don't know about 3rd Gen but 2nd Gen just has an oil level switch. It does not read oil pressure.

Furthering on Pard's comments, at high RPM, the oil pump may pull more oil out of the crankcase faster than is able to drip back down. With borderline oil level, you will get an engine light. To verify whether this is the issue, add another 1/2 quart of oil. I filled mine on the sidestand for years which amounts to 1/2~3/4 more. It's not going to hurt it. If your oil light ceases, you've discovered the issue.

Regarding oil/coolant mix, do you have coolant in your oil? While oil in coolant isn't very impactful, the reverse very much is. There are pump-up cooling system pressure testers that help locate leaks. Just keep in mind that the default config is just a measly 1 bar of pressure. Leaks can also be dependent up on engine temp. So try to locate it on a hot engine if are unable to locate on a room temp engine.
I plan on doing an oil change soon so I haven't seen any coolant in my oil, but well see after I change the oil this week but that makes sense, I run max oil level though im worried about over filling it as too much oil can pressurize certain parts of the motor, are you saying I should over fill it by a small amount?
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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10k rpm? I'm curious if you are riding in 2nd gear or have 4 more teeth on you sprocket? You can't shit a shitter. 10k in 6 is 110mph. As to the oil. Does the dipstick look like chocolate milk after the engine has ran? Then water in large volume is in the pan. Otherwise you have a oil cooler or headgasket failure to fill the water jackets. 28k original miles and mine doesn't consume a detectable volume of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
10k rpm? I'm curious if you are riding in 2nd gear or have 4 more teeth on you sprocket? You can't shit a shitter. 10k in 6 is 110mph. As to the oil. Does the dipstick look like chocolate milk after the engine has ran? Then water in large volume is in the pan. Otherwise you have a oil cooler or headgasket failure to fill the water jackets. 28k original miles and mine doesn't consume a detectable volume of oil.
the dipstick looks good its color comes out green, I ride in the city between 1st and 2nd. I'm geared 1 down in the front and up 2 in the rear and I enjoy slapping limiter in 6th gear down the highway but not too often, full tuck down the toll roads is my natural habitat :) . a small amount of oil consumption is acceptable for me because I do oil changes every 1200-2000 miles and ride the bike every day
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Green oil? Hrmm. What asshole would dye there product green. You are positive you have not had ethylene glycol in the block or pan?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Green oil? Hrmm. What asshole would dye there product green. You are positive you have not had ethylene glycol in the block or pan?
well the asshole goes by the name of "Motul" I run engine ice so my coolant is blue, I can't be positive about the glycol in the pan or block, its a new motor with 7k miles since my last one sent a valve to the moon. I've been thinking about swapping in the sensor from my old motor into the new one incase its a faulty sensor but I highly doubt it. I don't think I have any coolant going into the oil because none shows on the dipstick. Its definitely oil going into the coolant at consistent high rpms and, or its pulling too much oil from the pan at higher rpms, I let off the throttle and it takes about a minute for the light to go off at the longest so its not a huge issue I would hope but then again I blew one of my motors already....
 

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Old antifreeze (ethylene glycol) is green, now the long life crap is red. Is the oil filter new? Smashed filter? Yeah a dent in the side can prevent the anti drain back from opening thereby bypassing the filter. The oil cooler is the first place a failure can mix the two. Intermittent oil light is a float switch. As in the oil is NOT drainning back to the pan. This only happens to me below 35F for a minute or two on startup due to viscosity. You have a galley blocked if the oil is at operating temp and still trapped up top.
 

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@mordantly - Based on his avatar I think he stunts. So he wants that instantaneously available torque available at ultra high 12k RPM. Yeah I agree it seems that Motul's color of choice isn't the best but it's aimed at track folk who don't run the traditional green ethylene glycol product.

@intelligentyams - If the light comes on while at extreme angle (wheel standing) then that slows oil drain. I presume that oil return is just gravity fed. The pump just sucks oil from the pan. Having more or less in the pan theoretically would not impact volume. If you look at PartZilla's engine rebuild videos (videos.bing.com) you'll see that oil pan is pretty deep and partitioned. Yes, overfill and confirm.

Extended high RPM (77% of max) at low speeds can be a real problem for cooling. What kind of temperature spikes are you seeing? Some kind of upgraded cooling may be needed to deal with hot-spots; keeping in mind that stator output is very limited.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@mordantly - Based on his avatar I think he stunts. So he wants that instantaneously available torque available at ultra high 12k RPM. Yeah I agree it seems that Motul's color of choice isn't the best but it's aimed at track folk who don't run the traditional green ethylene glycol product.

@intelligentyams - If the light comes on while at extreme angle (wheel standing) then that slows oil drain. I presume that oil return is just gravity fed. The pump just sucks oil from the pan. Having more or less in the pan theoretically would not impact volume. If you look at PartZilla's engine rebuild videos (videos.bing.com) you'll see that oil pan is pretty deep and partitioned. Yes, overfill and confirm.

Extended high RPM (77% of max) at low speeds can be a real problem for cooling. What kind of temperature spikes are you seeing? Some kind of upgraded cooling may be needed to deal with hot-spots; keeping in mind that stator output is very limited.
@Intuit yes I have an mt07 I enjoy wheeling any hour of the day, and yes I enjoy that instant torque at high rpms 12k and above lol, I have seen partzilla's video on the r6 engine build. I plan on doing an oil change because I run the 300v and it is only good for 3k miles and I'm nearing that threshold. The oil is on the way in the mail, and I wouldn't say I see heat spikes, it really just seems like the bike runs hot as hell in general. it sits around 198-205 regularly and goes up to 210-218 if I'm really moving it down my local highway or empty toll road. I would wheelie my r6 but I just doesn't seem to have enough in her to smoothly bring the wheel up and keep it up :(, but cutting up corners and watching my pirellis shed rubber on the side of the tire is a great feeling :). side note should I invest in some aftermarket Samco hoses? I don't see much of a point its just rubber hoses like I have now, maybe they insulate better I would assume but if its worth it I'll get them.
 
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