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Discussion Starter #1
So I’m a brand new rider , bought a 02 r6 had oil change tires done , a week later stator rectifier went. Had them replaced, bikes seems to run great (24k miles on it) have out about 1k miles on it since oil change, tonight started it up after doing 200 or so miles today oil light/temp light popped on after a quick 1/4 mile ride around the neighborhood ..
Checked oil it’s reading low .... seeing how it’s only 1k miles in since oil change would it burn this much oil ?( no apparent leaks ) Or could it be related to the stator replacement

Also any know anything about hard shifting into 2nd gear ( or missing it ) or it’s just my noob ass 😂
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Oil level may have been low to start with. Don't thread the stick in to check. Check clutch adjustment. sounds possible no fully disengaging. Should be able to roll engine hot in gear not running with clutch in. You will feel drag but should freely roll.
 
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Shut it down immediately or did you keep riding? Oil fill cap, or its o-ring missing? Is there oil anywhere around the bike?

There's a large ratio jump between 1 and 2. Until you get a "feel for it", or rather, an understanding, pull in the clutch lever slightly while at the very same time, shifting. It is a sequential transmission meaning, you can do clutchless shifting. The longer you delay your shift after neutralizing throttle and pulling the clutch, the rougher your shift. It just takes a bit of practice and experience. Absolutely do not hit first gear, at anything other than crawl speeds.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Brand new oil can be hard to see the wet spot on the stick.. I take mine into full sun to see the reflection. Oh, and if the block is 19F and you have 15w40 oil, the oil level light will come on as the oil gets trapped in the transmission or somewhere until it warms up enough to drain down.
 

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you said youre a noob... does this mean you dont own service stands? How are you checking the oil?? My 02 has a dipstick like the later models.
You can put a piece of wood under the kickstand to hold the bike upright.
And speaking of tires... what did you use to check the air pressure in them???
 

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Also, when replacing the Oil filter, it takes extra oil to fill it up, Did you replace the oil filter as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks! for the shifting tip that makes a lot of sense , and between 1st and 2nd seems to be a harder shift in to gear , yeah I shut it down. literally just took a ride around neighbor hood less then a 1/4 mile
did a quick check on the oil with bike on stand and off was low so just added a 1/4 of a quart will keep a eye on but seems odd oil would drop that fast less then a 1k on oil change
Shut it down immediately or did you keep riding? Oil fill cap, or its o-ring missing? Is there oil anywhere around the bike?

There's a large ratio jump between 1 and 2. Until you get a "feel for it", or rather, an understanding, pull in the clutch lever slightly while at the very same time, shifting. It is a sequential transmission meaning, you can do clutchless shifting. The longer you delay your shift after neutralizing throttle and pulling the clutch, the rougher your shift. It just takes a bit of practice and experience. Absolutely do not hit first gear, at anything other than crawl speeds.

Shut it down immediately or did you keep riding? Oil fill cap, or its o-ring missing? Is there oil anywhere around the bike?

There's a large ratio jump between 1 and 2. Until you get a "feel for it", or rather, an understanding, pull in the clutch lever slightly while at the very same time, shifting. It is a sequential transmission meaning, you can do clutchless shifting. The longer you delay your shift after neutralizing throttle and pulling the clutch, the rougher your shift. It just takes a bit of practice and experience. Absolutely do not hit first gear, at anything other than crawl speeds.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Brand new oil can be hard to see the wet spot on the stick.. I take mine into full sun to see the reflection. Oh, and if the block is 19F and you have 15w40 oil, the oil level light will come on as the oil gets trapped in the transmission or somewhere until it warms up enough to drain down.
Running 10-40 Mobil 4t ( that what manual says
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you said youre a noob... does this mean you dont own service stands? How are you checking the oil?? My 02 has a dipstick like the later models.
You can put a piece of wood under the kickstand to hold the bike upright.
And speaking of tires... what did you use to check the air pressure in them???
yess as h I just got stands in the mss as I’m yesterday , and a jaco tire pressure Guage, which I haven’t used yet
 

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yess as h I just got stands in the mss as I’m yesterday , and a jaco tire pressure Guage, which I haven’t used yet
Ok take the gauge down to a local tire shop and have it bench marked at the pressures youre using. Probably 25psi to 45 should be sufficient. Shouldn't be a charge to do that but you
may have to wait on them to mount a tire to do that. FYI those $1 pencil type gauges tend to be very accurate out of the box. Not much to bang around in them and easy to keep on the bike.
 

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So to check the oil I warmed the bike up to about 160 shut it off for a few mins, straight up used dip stick ( not screwing it in )
water temp is different from oil. At that temp Id bet the oil isnt near 100 degrees.
Best way to check oil temp is just put your hand on the right or left side cases near the crankshaft. Dont burn yourself doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok take the gauge down to a local tire shop and have it bench marked at the pressures youre using. Probably 25psi to 45 should be sufficient. Shouldn't be a charge to do that but you
may have to wait on them to mount a tire to do that. FYI those $1 pencil type gauges tend to be very accurate out of the box. Not much to bang around in them and easy to keep on the bike.
oh i didnt even know i had to bring the the tire guage( jaco elitepro digitial) to be calibrated, ty my man ! reading the manual (haynes) it says psi shoulg be like 32/36 under 200lb, or like 46psi over 200lbs so i was thinking going like 42
 

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32psi in the front is going to be very heavy steering and shit tire life. Around 38-40psi front and rear should be a good range. Fine tune as you ride for tire temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
32psi in the front is going to be very heavy steering and shit tire life.
guess ill have to do a little research im completly new this is my first bike , still on my permit have about 5-10hrs riding exp, doing the msf couse the last weekend of this month
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Go with 38-40 then. The msf will get you started indeed. The rest comes with practice. Over 10.5 years since I got my CA M1. Around 65 or 70k miles over 6 motorcycles and I can say 80% of the dangers I face daily are outside my control. The rest is bad riding techniques. Day dreaming. Bad posture. Choking the grips. The herky jerky throttle.
 

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Get rid of it, I had one. rectifier melted, the run hot because the carb mixture is lean. You need to add a fan switch to turn on manually. Also the shift dog is worn your 2nd gear is going out all 02 have this problem mine went out too. Use full synthetic castrol 10-40t seems to help for smoother shifting. Don't let anyone take your carbs off because to re clamp them are a pain in the ass and most will give up and it will run like crap. They jump time too, mine did. Junk.!!!!!!
 
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