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Discussion Starter #1
Now that the bike had it's first service done, it was time to tear it apart.
I decided on getting the Graves Works7 full titanium exhaust and a FlashTune bike side harness.
STG had a sale before Xmas, so I also threw in the auto-blipper and the Driven block off plates.
I also ordered the Spiegler ABS-delete brake lines.
Of course nothing shipped until after New Year's, plus I missed the delivery due to a signature requirement, so last week Tuesday I finally got my parts.
I had already taken apart the bike, and removed the stock exhaust.
I weighed it on my bathroom scale (even the individual parts were too heavy for the postal scale), and with the servo and all the mounting hardware it came to about 10.5 kg, or just over 23 lbs for you imperialists.
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Here are the new parts on the scale. End can:

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Collector:

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Header Right:

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Header Left:

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I forgot to weigh the springs :( but the total is 3657 gr, or a smidge over 8 lbs.

Exhaust came in a box with nothing else but a sticker. No instructions. Nothing. Sigh. I followed the instructions from their Works 3 exhaust, and it went on without a hitch. I didn't know if the OEM O2 sensor needed to be installed or not, but it turned out the sensor bung is in a different position, which makes the sensor cable to short to reach the plug anyway, so I left it off. Later, I learned from their support (via email, no phone support !!!) that the sensor is not needed.
I also installed the block off plates since I had the bike apart already.
Here is the rat's nest it removes:

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After getting the FT ECU bike side harness installed, I installed the software on my laptop, but I couldn't get it to work. I called Flash Tune's support, and they walked me through my first flash. Nice.
Unfortunately, there was no map for the Works7 exhaust to be found anywhere, so, back to Graves email support. They wanted proof of purchase, and ECU number, and FTECU license number to build a custom map. I'm assuming it's custom in the sense that it only works with my ECU (Always nice to see a company making the customers suffer to protect their IP /s ).
This process took a full 48 hours from sending all info to getting a map.
Friday (I started Tuesday :( ) I could finally flash the ECU with the correct map. I then installed the auto-blipper from FTECU as well, and enabled it in the flash. After disabling all the error codes from the Exhaust servo, the dash was happy again.

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Meanwhile, my Spiegler ABS delete brake lines had arrived, and I ripped out all the ABS lines (messy). I left in the ABS ECU (which is glued to the pump), pulled the ABS pump fuse, and installed the new lines.
The rear line is definitely too long, the front lines are fine (I ordered the Rennsport lines with the T junction):

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I still need to tuck in the speed sensor wire.

With the fuse pulled, the pump is off (I couldn't find matching M10x1.0 bolts to plug the pump connections, so I left them open after draining), and traction control should still work; it does however leave the ABS light on on the dash. For another $250 (WTF!!) I could get the plug from FTECU and lose another 2.5 lbs, but for now this will have to do.

Sunday morning, I installed the Ohlins Steering Damper. There seems to be a lot of confusion around which version to buy, There is the SD055 ($600) for the 17+ R6 and the SD020 for the previous years R6. Amazon had the SD020 on sale for half off, so I bit the bullet. It installed straight-forward, minus the shimming under the tank bolt, which is a bit of a pain.
I'm definitely not liking the looks of this arrangement, and would prefer mounting on the lower triple clamp, but that's a no go with a key lock. I will have to live with it for right now, but the thought of having to remove a 115Nm nut every time you need the tank off is not too appealing.

So that's where the bike sits right now:

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I only managed to get in a short test ride so far. The weight loss is noticeable of course, noise is not too loud (which is why I picked the Graves), so the old ladies in the neighborhood won't get too upset. Bike is still not fully broken in, so final assessment will have to wait, but I love the exhaust, I just wish the initial installation and setup process had been documented somewhere so it could be streamlined more.

Now I'm waiting for the race plastics from Motoprixcambi, which shipped on time, but are currently on the slow boat form Italy. Planning the paint job, and case savers, frame sliders etc.

First track day is planned for March, can't wait.
- Michael
 

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Great looking bike! I might be a bit biased though, as I own a 2018 in the exact same colour haha.

I look forward to seeing your thoughts on the Motoprixcambi fairings. I've been eyeing them off as they're pretty well priced. Also, when you load pictures up next time, can you please post up one of the Ohlins steering damper? Cheers

P.s What rearsets are you running? I like the look of them(y)
 

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I'm the largest Ohlins dealer in the world and I still couldn't get my hands on enough of the SD 055 dampers originally so I ended up putting an SD 020 damper on our 2018 project bike. It fit up perfect. I mean I maybe had to use one additional washer out of my tool kit or something, but it fits exactly as you would expect.

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Discussion Starter #4
Great looking bike! I might be a bit biased though, as I own a 2018 in the exact same colour haha.

I look forward to seeing your thoughts on the Motoprixcambi fairings. I've been eyeing them off as they're pretty well priced. Also, when you load pictures up next time, can you please post up one of the Ohlins steering damper? Cheers

P.s What rearsets are you running? I like the look of them(y)
Rearsets are Vortex V3s, have them on two of my other bikes. They're not the best looking, and I wish their footpegs where cut at an angle, but otherwise they're great.

I got the fairings, and mounted them up. Pictures to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here is a picture of the mounted up Ohlins damper, same as LDH's, minus the expensive forks ;) No additional washers were required in my case. The only hard part is shimming the front tank mount, it's really not accessible to add shims without removing the whole mount again.

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Discussion Starter #7
So I ordered the Motoprixcambi unpainted race fairings from Italy just before Christmas. They had a nice sale going on, and said the fairings would ship January 2nd. I got the full set including the tank cover and front fender. Pricing was very good, and shipping from Italy was cheaper than shipping from some US sellers, by a lot.
I got an update on January 2nd, that my fairings were shipped, then they spent about 14 days on a slow boat, and on Jan 16th, I got a notification that they were out for delivery (they ship Poste Italiane, so they get delivered bu USPS).
You do not want to miss that shipment, they require a signature, and the box is HUGE! even if you have normal sized hands ;)

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Everything was carefully wrapped, and soon enough I had all the pieces layed out, inspected, and a huge pile of packing materials.

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The fairings have a nice, shiny gelcoat on them, they're a little stiff (all my others were epoxy based, so more flexible). They have the usual mold separation lines on them, and one or two spots were the gelcoat was uneven around a mold line.
Here is the surface:
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They're not pre-drilled. I really believe these are made by bikesplast for MPC, minus the drilling. The pictures on their website are exactly the same as bikesplast's.

They even marked the cutouts for frame silders:
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I started by mounting the seat, undertail, and tank cover.

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These went on without much of a problem, although I did need some extra fasteners to mount the untertail (the black piece). I also taped up the OEM tank to prevent it from getting scratched.
The rest of the pieces went on as expected. Most holes were right on the center of the markings, the side pieces at the top were a little off and are hard to line up when drilling. Drilling took me a long time, since I forgot to order a step drill bit, so I spent 50% of my time swapping drill bits. Amateur!

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They pretty much follow the exact shape of the OEM fairings (unfortunately), including that weird extra bit behind the stator cover that's always bothered me. So I trimmed it off.

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Here is the right side, which required a tiny little trimming around the Graves exhaust:
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I will be using the bike on the street, so the headlights went back in (no DLRs):

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I also mounted the LED strips for turn signals that I used on the OEM fairings.
The rear has a 3d printed mount for the license plate and LED strips for taillight, brake, and turn signals.
Overall ,I'm very happy with the fairings, it was a bit of work to mount everything (mostly for the lack of a step drill bit), the surface is good enough to ride around with.
One little extra note: I ordered their neoprene seat, and it is TINY! That was not worth the 30 some dollars they charge for it. I will have to make my own.
Bike feels completely different now, much more direct, and solid under my butt.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another note for the racers out there, the fairings are mounted with a mix of DZUS (I used black button heads), and OEM fasteners. This makes them not really quick to come off and on.
On my GSXR with the Carbonin fairings, they include aluminum standoffs to bolt to the stock mounts that accept DZUS fasteners, and allow very quick removal of all the fairings. But I don't think anyone offers that for the R6.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Next up, designing the paint job. I'm partial to the 50th or 60th anniversary paint schemes, I like the bumblebee look. However, Yamaha decided to wrinkle the fairings for the R6 in every possible way instead of giving them some smooth surfaces, so all the straight lines will get wobbly when painted over the various ridges.

I spent over a week trying to figure out a paint scheme, and this is how far I got:

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Needs some Yamaha stickers, but otherwise, it's tolerable or least offensive to my eyes. All the lines follow the fairing contours. Phew.
 

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for your brake lines, everything was the correct length? or did you add on a little longer lines? ive been reading they have been coming in short for the +17
 

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Well, it's a mixed bag. If I were to do it again, I would just order them custom.
The rear is long, accommodates an extra bend, which isn't needed, especially if one removes the 90 degree fitting on the brake master, and uses a brake line fitting with a different angle.
The front is a T-line, the right line is perfect, the left could be 1.5 inches shorter I guess. It fits, but is a little long.
My advice, just order them custom, pretty sure that's not even more expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Progress is slow. After a lot of sanding to scuff up the shiny fairings, I got the first layers of paint on. I'm using Rust-oleum Painter's choice, no primer (let's see how that works out ;) ).
First pieces are all the white paint, and the all black parts:

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More sanding, and masking for the yellow and the partially black tail:

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I had a choice of two yellows, a darker one called "Golden Sunset" and the lemony "Sun Yellow". The ideal color was somewhere in between the two. I wanted to layer the light yellow over the darker one, but when I sprayed the Golden Sunset in the sun, it looked fine, so I'm keeping it for now. It looks darker in the indoor light than it is.

I added a light dusting of metal flake on the yellow (into the wet coat). You can only see it in the sun, but it turned out ok. Here is where the bike is right now:
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A couple of days drying time, then the remainder of the black paint, bottom of tank cover, bottom of front fairing, and trim lines on side fairings and front. This being a rattle can paint job, it looks ok from about 5 ft ;)

Hopefully, we'll have some more days of 60 degree weather over the weekend to finish the black. Then I have to decide if I want to keep the sides of the tail white, or if I should extend the yellow all the way to the back.
Meanwhile, ordering stickers and decals, plus cutting and shaping the seat pad. As it is, the seat pan is slanted forward too much, I want to raise the front a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A productive day today, 3 hours of masking paint. Spraying black for the final little touches.

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A few paint mishaps, but it looks ok from 5 ft. Also, I ran over the fender, so that will need some extra attention. D'oh.
Stickers and decals next...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The bike is doing great, absolutely perfect for the track.
I haven't done much to it since, some frame sliders, case savers. Replaced the stock levers with Vortex adjustable levers for brake and clutch, Added some Eazi-grip tank grips.
After one session at the track, I've changed over to Dunlop slicks, I don't think I'll be riding the R6 on the street anymore. The Dunlops come in 180/60 only and I had some issues with the tire warmers getting stuck between the tire and swingarm, not enough clearance. I swapped the chain and sprockets to 520 size and added two links to gain some clearance, that was about the only issue.
I was impressed with how well the quickshifter and auto-blipper work at the track, due to the higher revs, on the street the downshifts were kind of clunky.

Bike has been to Thunderhill for 6 trackdays and spent one day at Sonoma so far. The rear tire lasted about 6 days (flipped over after 3 days, TH causes very uneven tire wear).
Ready to go for anpther 3 days next weekend. The best part so far, bike hasn't had a single issue. I occasionally check the oil level, change brake fluid, and check brake pads. I wanted to change the pads, but the OEM pads are only half way worn, Very low maintenance, which is great, so I can concentrate on riding at the track.
Three more days at TH coming up next weekend.


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