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I have a 2017 r6.
The other day commuting back home my bike’s overheat warning light came on, while i stopped to fill up gas. The temp went up to around 258 so i shut off the engine for 3 minutes and the warning disappeared and i went on my way.

What possibilities caused my engine temp to reach so high while i was stationary getting gas??

I just want to make sure its nothing of concern.
 

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Check your coolant and make sure it’s full, check the Rad cap and make sure it’s on tight if it’s lose or defective it will not build pressure properly. One more thing to check is the fans... make sure they are coming on if not check the fuses. I am putting money on the Rad cap or maybe low fluid.
 

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Man! i've been scouring the internet for days over this exact thing! i have a 2019 r6 and almost the same exact thing happened! I was omw to the gas station, it was between 93-97 out in the middle of the day, and there is a small amount of traffic right before the gas station due to a few poorly placed stopsigns (Kentucky roads are aids sometimes)

As i pulled into the gas station, i saw it rise from the normal-ish 210 to i think 248 before i saw the light and hit the killswitch and coasted to the pump, i let it chill for a few minutes after i got gas, and it didn't happen again. I rode it home, and the next day i did a coolant flush. It had what i believe is stock coolant? it was like a blue/green almost like blue raspberry colored coolant. (This is my first r6 so idk if its stock)
But just to be safe i did a flush on it and put some Cool-Aide in it, made sure to burp it. I think i'm going to switch to engine ice though, heard nothing but good stuff about it. I haven't had any overheating since, hopefully i don't either.
 

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Man! i've been scouring the internet for days over this exact thing! i have a 2019 r6 and almost the same exact thing happened! I was omw to the gas station, it was between 93-97 out in the middle of the day, and there is a small amount of traffic right before the gas station due to a few poorly placed stopsigns (Kentucky roads are aids sometimes)

As i pulled into the gas station, i saw it rise from the normal-ish 210 to i think 248 before i saw the light and hit the killswitch and coasted to the pump, i let it chill for a few minutes after i got gas, and it didn't happen again. I rode it home, and the next day i did a coolant flush. It had what i believe is stock coolant? it was like a blue/green almost like blue raspberry colored coolant. (This is my first r6 so idk if its stock)
But just to be safe i did a flush on it and put some Cool-Aide in it, made sure to burp it. I think i'm going to switch to engine ice though, heard nothing but good stuff about it. I haven't had any overheating since, hopefully i don't either.
just use normal coolant. every bike I've seen with that engine ice has puked it out after a hard ride. it's junk. the blue coolant is stock. a lot of companies are starting to make different color coolants for some reason. blue seems to be japan stuff now. and some european cars too.

keep in mind a new engine will run hotter for a while until it's broke in. my R1 was hitting 220 in traffic when it was brand new. but I flashed the ecu to have the fans come on around 214 now and it stays much cooler in traffic. your fans don't come on till around 218. the manufactures have to meet very strict european emissions so making them run hotter helps keep the converter hotter so it works better.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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My bone stock still breaking in 2017 runs about 168f at speed and hits 200-220f sitting in traffic then fans come one.
 

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I was having overheating issues with mine. I flushed the system about 4 times with distilled water and then I added Engine Ice, problem solved. Bike runs between 150f-170f while cruising and when I stop it fluctuates between 200f-212f. Im not saying Engine Ice is the solution, it might've been that the old coolant was loosing its heat absorbing properties. But that's just what worked for me.
 

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Why yes I don't!!!!!!!!!!
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I was having overheating issues with mine. I flushed the system about 4 times with distilled water and then I added Engine Ice, problem solved. Bike runs between 150f-170f while cruising and when I stop it fluctuates between 200f-212f. Im not saying Engine Ice is the solution, it might've been that the old coolant was loosing its heat absorbing properties. But that's just what worked for me.
I find that conclusion to be laughable. Or it could have been that your "stock" coolant mixture was 50/50. Simply diluting your stock coolant to 30% glycol content and 70% water would have netted the same results. Now you have EI which is garbage pre diluted garbage at that. So EI thinks you are too silly to mix their product...they do it for you. :fact
 

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I find that conclusion to be laughable. Or it could have been that your "stock" coolant mixture was 50/50. Simply diluting your stock coolant to 30% glycol content and 70% water would have netted the same results. Now you have EI which is garbage pre diluted garbage at that. So EI thinks you are too silly to mix their product...they do it for you. :fact
Whatever the case may be it worked for me. Same thing was happening to a friends gixxer, we flushed the system and put Engine Ice in it and it never goes above 215F now. The "Pre diluted garbage" works for me and my friend and my wife's bike too. So yes, laugh all you want, my bikes are running cooler now.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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I avoid pre-mix, pre-diluted anything when a concentrated version is available. It is a RTFM or don't use [insert product or item] thing. Plus you control the ratio and dilutants whilest ensuring maximum cost savings.
 

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I find that conclusion to be laughable. Or it could have been that your "stock" coolant mixture was 50/50. Simply diluting your stock coolant to 30% glycol content and 70% water would have netted the same results. Now you have EI which is garbage pre diluted garbage at that. So EI thinks you are too silly to mix their product...they do it for you.
Whatever the case may be it worked for me. Same thing was happening to a friends gixxer, we flushed the system and put Engine Ice in it and it never goes above 215F now. The "Pre diluted garbage" works for me and my friend and my wife's bike too. So yes, laugh all you want, my bikes are running cooler now.
That's normal temps. So it's not the engine ice. You guys are leaving the coolant in the bike too long. It needs changed every 2 years. Read your owners manual.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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I think it said 2.5 qts for 2017. No wonder!
 

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i just bought my 19' R6 and its like my 4th bike. Never put any down either just found what i liked. Anyhow, bike had 1300 miles i think on it, i rode it to around 1500 and was just worrying about it having a stock yama oil filter, as it wasn't brought to the shop for its break in. So i ordered a new oil kit, coolant looked fine but i figured change it anyways. I used cool aide (always used it on my other street bikes) it mixes good and its always done me right. after i flushed that, did an oil change, put about 220 miles on the bike before it spat out coolant one hot day during a 20 some mile trip. (and yes, i properly flushed it when i installed it)I was also getting surges in traffic of up to 240, almost light temp indicator... so idk

So i dug back into the right side, tried to re-burp it but air wasn't the problem, and it wasn't overfilled. It was just overheating when run hard and i think spittin out the overflow. So i drained like 1/4 qt, put in 1/4 qt diluted, went out, spat it out again after doing like 120 again.(closed road but say what ya will) Said **** it, ima try this engine ice. used about a gallon of water flushing, kept the cool-aide in case w/e reason.. and put in engine ice. I've put i'm at 1960 miles and no overflow, nothing. So, for me.... I do like this engine ice, and its the first time i've tried it. Run it hard too so, just my 2 cents. I might try something else whenever i finally get my gear setup to be able to go to a track but...

Idk feelin a lot of hate on the EI when i think its doing the best so far, for this bike anyways.
and btw, i do my flushes right. I got a degree from UTI although it was automotive, not braggin just saying..I know a little bout what i'm doing =p
 

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Assuming fan and mix are okay, (which one or both probably weren't), check the radiator cap seal, and its seat on the radiator for debris. If it doesn't properly seal, then the radiator (and cooling system) can't build pressure and just "pukes" it out the reservoir and/or the cap itself. I'm assuming that the 3rd Gen bikes don't have sealed cooling systems. If they are sealed, they definitely shouldn't be "puking" coolant unless it got hot enough to boil. (which would probably mean that it wasn't mixed right)

Check your radiator for damage. Restriction or blockage can also contribute to overflow and overheat. I had one radiator that developed a micro-fracture after hitting it with a concentrated blast of cold water. (exceeded the aluminum alloy's thermal gradient) The immediate result wasn't a water/coolant leak, but an air leak. My first clue that there was a problem, was hearing a wet sucking sound, within a few minutes of the engine being shutdown. (takes a relatively quiet environment and a driveway wall to notice) For a time, it was easier for the cooling system to suck in air through that fracture, versus suck in coolant from the reservoir. Over the course of weeks, that fracture gapped to the point that a fluid leak started to occur with expansion. (it was a cold running engine with an over-engineered cooling system so the air in the coolant never bothered it)

TOpping Off: Topping off with water lowers the boiling point. Using higher concentrations of "coolant" decreases heat transfer efficiency, but to a point, will raise boiling temp.

Our caps are 1.0 PSI, memory serving.

 
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