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Mario J's Apple Juice
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8,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stripped my oil pan while going the wrong direction to take it off. Got an oversized Oil drain bolt from AutoZone size M14 - 1.5. Threaded it, cleaned out the metal shavings. Put in new oil and now it leaks, not a lot but a couple of drops every 15 minutes or so.

Would replacing the washer fix this? Currently have the washer that came with the bolt on there, it's a half inch rubber washer I believe. Change it to a crush washer?
 

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Mario J's Apple Juice
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8,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Did a little research, the washer is the seal for the drain plug. Usually you torque the drain plug 31 ft/lb IF there is a new washer in there.

So I took my torque wrench and seat it to 10 ft/lb and turned it slowly, lets just hope it doesn't leak.
 

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'08 R6 Track Only!
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60 Posts
Use Copper washer, and renew after every time you've take it loose.
Also for other Copper washers used on you're bike.
 

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Mario J's Apple Juice
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8,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Went to go check it out, no leaks so far. Then again I haven't started up the engine yet.
 

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Registered
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221 Posts
Go buy a stubby wrench as well. Maybe even write with a sharpie on the bottom of your oil pan which way to loosen. I know it's pretty common for people to do what you did but it really should never happen.
 

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Mario J's Apple Juice
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8,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For future references if anyone were to have the same problem then this method worked.

Thanks goes to Chris for suggesting this idea to me.

$3 oversized bolt (M14, 1.5) from Autozone. Screw it in to strip the original threads then out and clean the metal shavings out. After all that use a torque wrench and set it on about 5 or 6 ft/lbs. You want the washer to seal it.
 

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R6 2006
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860 Posts
i hope you are willing to bet your life that won't leak, your tires will run right over any leaking oil. I hope that it is nice and tight.

I made the same mistake, I decided to replace the oil pan 150$ but worth the piece of mind in my opinion. Also I think you can go to the dealership and buy a helicoil, that would have probably also fixed your issue too.
 

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I ride the Raven
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71 Posts
Hi there all I'm about to change the oil in my bike for the first time since I've bought it but
if I'm correct isn't it almost always left to loosen and right to tighten it I just can't afford
to strip the bolt I don't want to waste time and money doing something I'm pretty sure I
can do on my own.
 

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Mario J's Apple Juice
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8,180 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you took the oil pan off and didn't replace it?

you can always use thread sealant.
http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm
Yeah I took it off and didn't replace it. I saw some threads where people used a heli-coil kit fine and they didn't sell any of them around here. To this day the oil hasn't leaked. Changing my oil in about 1,800 miles and then I'll see if it'll leak.

Hi there all I'm about to change the oil in my bike for the first time since I've bought it but
if I'm correct isn't it almost always left to loosen and right to tighten it I just can't afford
to strip the bolt I don't want to waste time and money doing something I'm pretty sure I
can do on my own.
Yep it's lefty loosey righty tighty. My head just wasn't working that day and I was thinking more towards don't use a torque wrench to tighten it back on. Also never had the oil drain plug on the bottom before, used to it being on the side so I can see the bolt.
 

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Banned
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7,347 Posts
Hi there all I'm about to change the oil in my bike for the first time since I've bought it but
if I'm correct isn't it almost always left to loosen and right to tighten it I just can't afford
to strip the bolt I don't want to waste time and money doing something I'm pretty sure I
can do on my own.
yes it's left to loosen. but it's better to say counter clockwise to loosen.
this way no matter how you are looking at a bolt, it's easier to tell.
 

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New Member
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9 Posts
I just stripped my oil pan also :(

I will go and get that bigger screw, now could you tell me what new washer you put in there?
 

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Registered
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449 Posts
Did you try Heli-Coil yet?

If you can get the oil pan off, go to the auto parts store, bring in your drain plug and pickup some Heli-Coil. Tap out the existing threads, then insert the Heli-Coil. The guy at the store should know what thread size you need based on your drain plug.
 

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shred the gnar
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34 Posts
Saw a video from Eric the Car Guy that said just putting in a longer bolt of the same size and threads would solve the issue of a stripped out aluminum oil pan....can anyone confirm this?
 

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Just lean harder...
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887 Posts
You can't fix stupid, but you can numb it with a 2x4.....
 

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Yamaha 4 Life
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514 Posts
Saw a video from Eric the Car Guy that said just putting in a longer bolt of the same size and threads would solve the issue of a stripped out aluminum oil pan....can anyone confirm this?
No.

The oversized bolt fix works fine but I personally wouldnt consider it permanent.

I did it one weekend at the track just so I cold get out and ride and it worked, but the bolt did "sweat" a little. Also worth mentioning, the composite crush washer that came with the bolt was a piece of garbage so I made sure to buy a proper copper one when I did the job.

After the weekend was over I bought a new pan and Stahlbus drain plug so I will never have to worry about this again :D
 
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