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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Project 2005 R6 is underway. Getting her into safety inspection and rideable condition is first. Not sure how far I will go with this one but it will be a challenge as I don't have a garage. :p

So far, got the front cleaned up and was about to install a 520 conversion when a stuck primary drive nut (the 32mm front sprocket nut) halted the progress. Even with a 1/2" socket and breaker bar I can't get this thing to budge. Next step is to use an impact wrench. There is as good rent-all shop close by.

However, I'm not sure about what spec impact wrench I need to do the job. Does anyone have experience loosening this nut? Power is an issue as there is none available where I work on my bike so I'll have to use a battery powered one. What "strength" impact wrench should it be?
 

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My R6 eats Ninjas.
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Might wanna wait for some other guys to chime in with their advice, but I'm pretty sure the 05 r6 was one of the year bikes that had a habit of losing that nut and stripping the threads, Some guys rather than take it to the dealership to get it fixed properly would weld it on there. Might wanna check it out to make sure it's not welded before you break something trying to take it off.

If nothing else works to take it off, you can get a nut breaker and break the nut in half and replace it with a new one. But I would recommend this as a last resort.

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161061&highlight=front+sprocket+nut+came

http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302970&highlight=front+sprocket+nut+came
 

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Bridgestone my new friend
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You can always buy an electric impact wrench. Its a great tool to have and not used every day but like my tap and die set when needed its priceless. I have a pneumatic one with I think 450ftlbs max. I have never needed more. Its great for getting away from needing other special tools like a flywheel holder etc.

I wouldn't waste the money renting and just buy one. Trust me you will be happy you did.
 

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As far as loosening torque out of an impact gun ... I'd guess you would start out just above the tightening torque and add as necessary.

Make sure you lift any punched down sections of the nut before you loosen. Work on loosening the nut after a ride, so the nut and output shaft have some heat in them. Adding heat from a torch could melt the oil seal behind the sprocket.

Make sure the trans is in neutral and throw a padded bar through the wheel/swingarm or have someone apply the rear brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Copy that. I inspected the nut. It's not welded on, it has a folded washer/spacer that I carefully flattened the best I could prior to loosening it.

That's what I do: padded bar between through the rear rim to keep it from spinning.

Is the threading for the front sprocket reversed?? Did I just completely miss that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks, thedub. I sure wouldn't want to strip it.

If an impact wrench was used installing the nut, the thing to do is use an impact wrench to get it off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the front sprocket nut off today. Heavier duty breaker bar, cheater, assistant. :flex: That nut was probably impacted on 10k rusty miles ago, well over the 65ft/lbs torque :yuk:
 
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