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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody used this lowering link? http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/29569/i/psr-fully-adjustable-lowering-links

It is the fully adjustable one from psr, I am currently sharing my bike until we can get the other person the zx6r shes been looking for, I am 6' tall and dont have an issue holding the bike up however she does.

I am not planning on track riding with my r6 until next summer at the least, I know everybody here hates lowering bikes, I am planning to drop the rear no more than a 1 1/2" and the front no more than 1" I will obviously redial in my suspension afterwords but how bad will street riding the bike be afterwords? I have never had to ride a lowered bike before
 

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You honestly wont notice much of a difference between lowered and not.

As for those links, I dont know much about PSR, but I have similar links to those on my Ninja, only mine are made by Naarden. That one in the pic looks like a Ducati ride height adjuster though. Anyway, they are okay but you kinda have to know what youre doing so you get them exactly the same length. If you dont, you can bind the linkage which leads to premature wear of the linkage parts and bearings. Not only that, but its one thing to lower the bike, its another to adjust kick stand length. Lowering it 1.5 inches is going to make it stand straight up and down, so it wont take much at all to knock it over. And it takes a good few minutes to adjust the links. The biggest issue, though, will be the kickstand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You honestly wont notice much of a difference between lowered and not.

As for those links, I dont know much about PSR, but I have similar links to those on my Ninja, only mine are made by Naarden. That one in the pic looks like a Ducati ride height adjuster though. Anyway, they are okay but you kinda have to know what youre doing so you get them exactly the same length. If you dont, you can bind the linkage which leads to premature wear of the linkage parts and bearings. Not only that, but its one thing to lower the bike, its another to adjust kick stand length. Lowering it 1.5 inches is going to make it stand straight up and down, so it wont take much at all to knock it over. And it takes a good few minutes to adjust the links. The biggest issue, though, will be the kickstand.
Ah yes I forgot about the kickstand, I really would rather buy lowering links with the holes punched in them but I can only find them for 2" I don't really like the kind I posted but I cannot find links that lower only 1" seems like everyone wants to lower their bikes 2-4"

I'll have to figure something out with the kickstand, if I wasnt going to change it back to stock height in a year I would just cut and reweld it
 

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Ah yes I forgot about the kickstand, I really would rather buy lowering links with the holes punched in them but I can only find them for 2" I don't really like the kind I posted but I cannot find links that lower only 1" seems like everyone wants to lower their bikes 2-4"

I'll have to figure something out with the kickstand, if I wasnt going to change it back to stock height in a year I would just cut and reweld it
They make adjustable stands... And I would pick these links over multihole links. I lower mine 4-5 inches in the rear and strap the front for drag racing, so it takes me much longer. I would say its not that hard to do, and getting them right is as easy as making a tool out of something like a paint stick. Get your desired length figured out, mark it off on the stick, cut the stick to lenght, and adjust the link accordingly. I use a caliper, but same deal. Front is much more of a pain in the ass, as you have to loosen all the triple clamp pinch bolts, and then move the forks up through. This may even require removal of the front wheel, brakes, and fender each and every time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They make adjustable stands... And I would pick these links over multihole links. I lower mine 4-5 inches in the rear and strap the front for drag racing, so it takes me much longer. I would say its not that hard to do, and getting them right is as easy as making a tool out of something like a paint stick. Get your desired length figured out, mark it off on the stick, cut the stick to lenght, and adjust the link accordingly. I use a caliper, but same deal. Front is much more of a pain in the ass, as you have to loosen all the triple clamp pinch bolts, and then move the forks up through. This may even require removal of the front wheel, brakes, and fender each and every time.
Ok, so say I want to drop an 1 1/2" would I take the stock dogbone and measure center to center on the holes then match the psr links, but then make them an 1 1/2" longer to drop the rear ?
 

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Ok, so say I want to drop an 1 1/2" would I take the stock dogbone and measure center to center on the holes then match the psr links, but then make them an 1 1/2" longer to drop the rear ?
I would measure (roughly) the distance from the tire to the tail in a specific spot, or footpegs to the ground works, but not as accurately. Do this with the stock links. You cant just measure the links and add 1.5 inches or they will be WAY too long, as its not linear that way. Once you have a set height number to work with, remove the stock links, and measure center to center, and set up the PSRs to that length, then install. Now, adjust the PSRs, so that you get it close to where you want it. Measure the height drop and see if that is where you want them. Once you get that right, make a quick reference tool that you can use to hold up against the link to see if they are the right length and that both links are the same length. I used the captive distance between the two ends, not the eye to eye centers, as those are a little harder to see both ends of at the same time. I use a small metal caliper that tells me in mm how big that gap is on both links so I can be sure that its the same and wont bind the linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would measure (roughly) the distance from the tire to the tail in a specific spot, or footpegs to the ground works, but not as accurately. Do this with the stock links. You cant just measure the links and add 1.5 inches or they will be WAY too long, as its not linear that way. Once you have a set height number to work with, remove the stock links, and measure center to center, and set up the PSRs to that length, then install. Now, adjust the PSRs, so that you get it close to where you want it. Measure the height drop and see if that is where you want them. Once you get that right, make a quick reference tool that you can use to hold up against the link to see if they are the right length and that both links are the same length. I used the captive distance between the two ends, not the eye to eye centers, as those are a little harder to see both ends of at the same time. I use a small metal caliper that tells me in mm how big that gap is on both links so I can be sure that its the same and wont bind the linkage.
great info, thanks for all your help man, I'm going to try to drop it only an 1" and see if that helps her at all, will post back when the links get here hopefully early next week
 

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great info, thanks for all your help man, I'm going to try to drop it only an 1" and see if that helps her at all, will post back when the links get here hopefully early next week
Another thing you can do is get an extra seat and shave down some of the foam, then recover it. That will help in the inseam area for sure. Also, tell her to get some stripper shoes.:laugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Another thing you can do is get an extra seat and shave down some of the foam, then recover it. That will help in the inseam area for sure. Also, tell her to get some stripper shoes.:laugh
Lol not sure if that will happen, on a side note my links should be here Tuesday, I'll post back
 
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