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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I am new here at R6 forum. Anyways, I've done all my search here, but couldn't find it.

I will be purchasing either 2009 or 2010 yamaha R6, and have couple of installation questions.

***delay relay for HID***
1) I bought HID, and also 10 seconds delay relay for it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180544858770&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Where does this exactly go (or replace)?


***Scorpio i900***
1) I bought scorpio i900 along oem plug and play connector. it came with R1 and R6 connector, and told to use R6 connector which has total 4 wires, 2 wires with T tap, and 2 more wires which each of them separates into two wires with round shaped connector on each side. *refer to top picture, wires on left with green tap at the end* http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72730&highlight=scorpio+i900+installation
I know T tap goes to brake light, but for the other wires, I am not sure. The thing is I bought motodynamics integrated taillight, and it has same lookin connector for signal. So do i unplug those on taillight, and connect this from i900 in between them?

2) i was told ignition disable wires go to lean angle sensor. where is that?


***motodynamics integrated taillight***
1)on the instruction sheet, it says if front leg signals are installed (which I do, proton turn signal), resistors must be installed in front. what does that mean? what resistors? and where in front?

Thank you guys so much in advance.
 

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The relay you could wire up a couple different ways. It doesn't really replace anything unfortunately, its more of a universal thing in this case.

I would wire it this way (This way would take all the load off of the factory harness and place the load on the battery):
85 - Ground
86 - Factory headlight 12v+
30 - Battery
87 - Headlight
87a - Nothing

I guess you could also do this (This way would allow you to use all the wires that are already together without running one back to the battery, but will place on the load on the factory harness, which is fine really.):
85 - Ground
86 - Factory Headlight 12v+
30 - Factory Headlight 12v+
87 - Headlight
87a - Nothing

Are you having a problem with your HIDs? Mine work fine without the relay on my 07.

As for the alarm, I'm not entirely sure but it sounds like it goes in between the two, so yours has both a male and female end on it?

The lean angle sensor is between the ECM and the battery under the seat.

As for the motodynamic taillight, it will work without the resistors on the front.

Without the resistors on the front it will flash a little fast:

Video of mine without resistors on the front.

This thread is how I fixed mine, using a cheap electronic automotive flasher Or you can buy the CustomLED flasher for $20, it is plug and play but doesn't have the hanger to put it in the factory spot, so you'll need to zip-tie it or something.

This is a video of mine flashing with the automotive turnsignal flasher in there.

If you wish to install the resistors, just hook one end to the positive turn signal wire, the other end to the negative turn signal wire. Generally 20 watts at 5 ohms is enough. In some situations though you may need more. I would just go the electronic flasher route above, either the automotive route, or buy the customled one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thank you so much for taking time and answering my questions.

about the delay relay, top method, what's difference between headlight and factory headlight? so i am guessing T tap the wire and plug into relay? I see lots on connecting, but are there any disconnecting? like cut this and that wire, unplug this and that?
 

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Yes the relay is only for the low beam in this case. Some people run into a problem when they start their bike and the headlight turns on immediately the battery hasn't recovered quick enough so there is not enough voltage to ignite the ballast. The delay relay gives everything a chance to recover so the battery is back up to full voltage when the lights actually turn on.

Factory Headlight 12v+ = The factory 12 volt line to the headlight.
Headlight = The new 12v line to the HID, so this would actually be one of the lines coming out of the ballast.

*edit* ^^ I thought about this (above) and this is probably confusing. 86 would go to the factory headlight harness 12v+ line, while pin 87 would go to the wire that is mean to plug into the 12v+ line from the HIDs. *edit*

The goal is to have the headlight power wire trip the relay, whether you have the load placed on the battery (top method) or the load place on the factory wiring (bottom method) doesn't really matter. If you are a little unclear on how relays work, I have more detailed explanation here on my Jeep site.

Just for reference, I'm running HIDs from KryptonBulbs too, no relays, no delays, just hooked up straight to the factory wiring, no problems. So unless you are actually having problems, I wouldn't over complicate this.
 

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That kit that you linked too, is just a kit to take the load off of the factory wiring harness, it doesn't appear to be a delay kit.

Josh from Kryptonbulbs was supposed to be getting delay kits in, you might PM or call him and see if he has them in yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
[/IMG]Thank you.

I drew a little sloppy but diagram of delay relay for hid using my understood knowledge. can you please check and see if i get this correctly?

meanwhile,
1) where is the best place for ground?
2) so i can basically t tap for every wires in the diagram?
3) do you possibly have real picture of lean angle sensor?
 

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Yes that diagram looks correct. 87 and 86 should not cross, I'm assuming that they are just passing over each other in the image and not connected.

As for a ground, it could be anything metal really. Since you are already running a wire to the battery, you could always run one more to negative too.

I don't have an actual picture of the lean angle sensor, but it is right next to the battery, on the right side (sitting on the bike).

*edit*

And yes you can T-tap the connections. That would not be my preferred method though. I try and always solder and heat shrink all connections whenever possible.

*edit*
 
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