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Discussion Starter #1
So... Quickshifters

Do you use them? Which brand do you prefer/recommend?

I'm definitely looking to get one this winter for next season, but there are a lot of options. I have a 06 R6 with PCV/AT... but want to know if anyone likes/dislikes the Power Commander add-on or if they prefer/use another brand. I prefer an all-in-one package in stead of having to buy the sensor, shift arm and QS expansion separately.

There's also the

stand alone Bazazz QS4

HM http://bluestreakracing.ca/electronics-quick-shifters-and-controllers/quick-shifters/hm-quick-shifter-pc-with-strain-gauge.html

Annatori http://bluestreakracing.ca/electronics-quick-shifters-and-controllers/quick-shifters/annitori-rl-quickshift.html
 

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i think the bazzaz setup is about the smoothest from what i've read. if i could redo it all, i'd get the annitori rl and an ecu reflash with a PIMP map. :)
 

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Bazzaz is great with the individual gear kill times. However you're almost balls deep with Power Commander, so it may be cheaper to stick with them. Both are very good regardless.

You'll have to get the Ignition Module going the PC route. Yes you'll see threads where it works without it. But the reasoning is simple, most 600s these days fire on 8 injectors, the PC controls 4. So if you don't use the Ign Mod, when the QS initiates your engine is still combusting with half fuel resulting in jerky or not efficient shifts.

With the Ign Mod, you're cutting spark entirely resulting in a more efficient and smoother shift that's also better for your engine components in the long run.

I use PC on my personal bike, and have used Bazzaz on the shop bikes. I like both and have no problems with my PC setup.

Also, if you're anywhere near a college campus, talk to someone in the engineering school with access to the in-house machine shop to cut down your stock shift rod. The ones that come with the PC or Bazzaz setup are meh.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)

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That works as well, but this prevents you from adjusting ignition mapping which can be very beneficial if you've got a tuner able to do so.
 

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I have the annotori b/c I was too cheap to spring for a whole system. I have no complaints. When you're ringing it out, it's still pretty darn smooth.
 

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My buddy has a Dynojet one on his 636 track bike and it started wigging out, randomly cutting out power when he'd go over bumps and stuff. Ran into another guy having similar issues at my last track day.

Apparently the spring on it wears out and this starts happening. Dunno how frequently it happens, or how much parts to fix it are, but found it interesting that I've run into at least 2 people who've encountered the problem.
 

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My buddy has a Dynojet one on his 636 track bike and it started wigging out, randomly cutting out power when he'd go over bumps and stuff. Ran into another guy having similar issues at my last track day.

Apparently the spring on it wears out and this starts happening. Dunno how frequently it happens, or how much parts to fix it are, but found it interesting that I've run into at least 2 people who've encountered the problem.
Ignition module is probably bad if he's using one.
 

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I run the HM plus standalone and a bazzaz ZFI + AFM and a flashed ECU as well. Nothing is smoother than an ignition cutting quickshifter IMO. The kill times are what really makes it work smooth and well. No popping or other BS either. Just clean FAST shifts! I got everything you can have on this hog. :laugh

My buddy has a Dynojet one on his 636 track bike and it started wigging out, randomly cutting out power when he'd go over bumps and stuff. Ran into another guy having similar issues at my last track day.

Apparently the spring on it wears out and this starts happening. Dunno how frequently it happens, or how much parts to fix it are, but found it interesting that I've run into at least 2 people who've encountered the problem.
Anything with moving parts will wear. That's the big selling point on the HM and annitori units. Then again, my HM did this, so did two people's annitori RL units I know of. All replaced and work well now though.

I believe you can run the wire for the dynojet QS into the 21st pin on the ECU and ground it. This allows the ECU to recognize the signal and cut timing, etc to allow it's use. At least with ECU unleashed and what I do too this is an option. I am working on the B bike's ECU and quickshifter setup and will let you know how it works. There's kill time per gear in the ECU setup I flash which is nice. You should see the difference in kill times from R1's to R6's. :eek5 over 100 ms difference. :yuk:
 

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Im running a danos setup which with their shift rod.
Works really well once I got the angle of the sensor right.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a stock ECU with PCV.... but I like the features of the Annitori and HM. Electronics are hit or miss, sometimes you'll get a unit that works for decades but someone else will get one that lasts 2 weeks, but a replacement will be the 'decades' worker.

So I might be going with Annitori... but will the kill time adjustment through the Annitori device be sufficient enough? It may need a little more reading into from myself, but seems like it's that or HM.
 

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i don't know of the other brands, so maybe something out there is better.. but Dynojet quick shifters are very good. I have been racing with them for 9 years. In 9 years only had 1 fail, and my current 08 bikes i have raced 4 seasons now. no issues. My superbike has a flashed box with PCIII so i can only set 1 kill time for all gears. My ss bike has a YEC box so i can set different kill times for each gear. I start off with around 80ms for 1st to second, then down to 55 or so for the 5th to 6th shift. Varies on the course too.. more sweeping corner ya may wan't a little more kill time if you are shifting leaned over..

A word on the bouncing around.. yea, if your shift lever is jiggly, it's gonna move the sensor and make the ecu belive it's supposed to kill time. Same goes if your foot is hitting the shift rod. One thing that occurs as well will depend on your rear sets. The Graves rear sets are AWESOME. all i will use. But if you allow the peg bolt to loosen, the footpeg can rotate forward and move the shift lever just enough as you move around to make the motor hickup.. so just look over your bolts from time to time :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the info on the vibrations.... I use Vortex and have the stock style shift lever (under the frame). But I basically "pre-load" the shfit lever before I push it down all the way.... you know, that half push until you feel pressure. So I wouldn't want something like that or jiggling to affect the QS.
 

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Thanks for the info on the vibrations.... I use Vortex and have the stock style shift lever (under the frame). But I basically "pre-load" the shfit lever before I push it down all the way.... you know, that half push until you feel pressure. So I wouldn't want something like that or jiggling to affect the QS.
stop doing the "pre-load" thing, especially once you get a quick shifter.. IF you do that with a quick shifter, your motor is gonna cut out non-stop. Just hold the throttle wide open, once you are at the desired rpm, just bang the shift! easy. No preload needed. and as i stated, if you keep doing that, your gonna just create problems. The quick shifter kills the ignition for a few milliseconds that allows a FULL THROTTLE CLUTCHLESS (caps for emphasis :) ) upshifts.
 
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