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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2007 r6 won't idle

Hi all, this is my first post, did a lot of research before posting.

I have a 07 r6, and it is hard to start and will not idle (stalls whenever the rpms drop too low).

At first I though it was the TPS, but I ran DIAG mode and all values were within the good range.

Error codes given were 46 and 50, electrical failure and ecu malfunction. I tested the battery twice over two days, and it has held a charge of 12.87 V.

Next I pulled off the r/r and on of the connections were black and the connecter for that connection had melted a little. does this mean the r/r is shot?

I'm guessing I should replace my r/r, but what about the connector? can I still use it?

Does this also sound like a stator problem? I can't start the bike because I have the airbox and gas tank off, also I don't have access to a multimeter right now.

I'm hoping someone can guide my diagnosis in the right direction.

Thanks ahead of time!
 

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"The Dude abides .. "
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ya need a $10 cheap multi-meter.
Yes, i would bet the r/r is shot since the plug burned. You want to try and salvage that plug, but chiefsmokedog did post a place that sells just the plug (when it happened to me i had a spare wire harness and cut the plug off). But if the wires are not burned, and the connectors are still in place, just some melted plastic, you should be able to hook it up to another reg/rec. Just get one from ebay used from a reputable seller, look at pics that the prongs are not burned up and soft side isn't melted (side opposite the fins).

12.8vt at the battery is decent for sitting idle, but you want to see 14vt at the battery terminals on the multi-meter with the bike running at 5000 rpm. You can just have the tank propped up (as long as there is enough gas) and the air box lid can be off, just don't rev above 8000 or the upper injectors will spray all over. If you have 14vt your stator is good.. if it's bouncing way above 14vt (like 16vt) the reg/rec is not working and is allowing overcharging and that is bad..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ya need a $10 cheap multi-meter.
Yes, i would bet the r/r is shot since the plug burned. You want to try and salvage that plug, but chiefsmokedog did post a place that sells just the plug (when it happened to me i had a spare wire harness and cut the plug off). But if the wires are not burned, and the connectors are still in place, just some melted plastic, you should be able to hook it up to another reg/rec. Just get one from ebay used from a reputable seller, look at pics that the prongs are not burned up and soft side isn't melted (side opposite the fins).

12.8vt at the battery is decent for sitting idle, but you want to see 14vt at the battery terminals on the multi-meter with the bike running at 5000 rpm. You can just have the tank propped up (as long as there is enough gas) and the air box lid can be off, just don't rev above 8000 or the upper injectors will spray all over. If you have 14vt your stator is good.. if it's bouncing way above 14vt (like 16vt) the reg/rec is not working and is allowing overcharging and that is bad..
Thanks for the fast reply, The plug should be salvageable, there's only a little melted plastic. I will definitely order a new r/r.

Would overcharging or undercharging cause the bike to not be able to idle?
 

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Thanks for the fast reply, The plug should be salvageable, there's only a little melted plastic. I will definitely order a new r/r.

Would overcharging or undercharging cause the bike to not be able to idle?
yes.. overcharge will cook other parts, undercharge (due to a faulty stator, if not getting 14vts at the battery terminals holding 5000 rpm) will have other problems. If just below 14vt, ya may see lights dim on high-beam at idle and get bright when you rev. worst case there won't be enough charge to run injectors and spark at higher rpm, and the engine will start to miss, using battery power till it's depleted, then die altogether. My race bikes don't have lights, so it sneaks up on me more than it will you watching the headlights..

there is no problem with buying used, just get from a reputable ebay seller. new ones are expensive, i wouldn't waste any money on aftermarket ones. Get OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yes.. overcharge will cook other parts, undercharge (due to a faulty stator, if not getting 14vts at the battery terminals holding 5000 rpm) will have other problems. If just below 14vt, ya may see lights dim on high-beam at idle and get bright when you rev. worst case there won't be enough charge to run injectors and spark at higher rpm, and the engine will start to miss, using battery power till it's depleted, then die altogether. My race bikes don't have lights, so it sneaks up on me more than it will you watching the headlights..

there is no problem with buying used, just get from a reputable ebay seller. new ones are expensive, i wouldn't waste any money on aftermarket ones. Get OEM.
I just purchased used oem from a reputable seller on ebay. I also ordered a multimeter, it was only $8!

While I wait on the r/r and multimeter to come in, based on my symptoms:

Good battery
Bad r/r
Not idling/hard start

Do you think it's just a r/r problem since the stator is not discharging the battery until depletion?

I'll check the 5000 rpm battery voltage when I get the multimeter, if I run the bike with the good r/r will a bad stator damage the r/r?

Thanks again
 

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I just purchased used oem from a reputable seller on ebay. I also ordered a multimeter, it was only $8!

While I wait on the r/r and multimeter to come in, based on my symptoms:

Good battery
Bad r/r
Not idling/hard start

Do you think it's just a r/r problem since the stator is not discharging the battery until depletion?

I'll check the 5000 rpm battery voltage when I get the multimeter, if I run the bike with the good r/r will a bad stator damage the r/r?

Thanks again
i don't think a bad stator will hurt the r/r, it just won't supply sufficient volts (below 14vt at the battery ). A bad battery can cause all kinds of running issues though.. so wanna be sure it's good. sounds like it is (good charge just sitting there).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i don't think a bad stator will hurt the r/r, it just won't supply sufficient volts (below 14vt at the battery ). A bad battery can cause all kinds of running issues though.. so wanna be sure it's good. sounds like it is (good charge just sitting there).

Yeah the battery has held its charge, Thanks for the help Melk, I'll keep the thread updated when the parts come in.
 

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Something to consider: Your battery may start the bike and read a decent voltage but not be holding the charge long enough, so you may want to have it tested. (auto/bike shop usually will do for free) The R/R can overheat if it is being used too much (battery requiring excessive charging) causing the plug to melt. Easy way to tell w/o leaving home is to listen to an R6 on youtube starting and if yours is turning over much slower... then the battery may be an issue.

Also its totally necessary to test all the voltages/resistances (of charging system) per manual's instructions. Otherwise you may replace one part of the charging system only to create the same or new problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Something to consider: Your battery may start the bike and read a decent voltage but not be holding the charge long enough, so you may want to have it tested. (auto/bike shop usually will do for free) The R/R can overheat if it is being used too much (battery requiring excessive charging) causing the plug to melt. Easy way to tell w/o leaving home is to listen to an R6 on youtube starting and if yours is turning over much slower... then the battery may be an issue.

Also its totally necessary to test all the voltages/resistances per manual's instructions. Otherwise you may replace one part of the charging system only to create the same or new problems.
I did what you said, the starting sound it not slower, I had an autoshop test the battery twice over two days and it has held charge.

I'm guessing the R/R can also melt is the stator is bad causing it to be used too much to keep the battery charged as well?

I understand, my multimeter comes in the same day as my r/r so I'll do a continuity test on the stator and check the voltage on the battery again?

I should be doing a continuity test on the stator correct?
 

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you could test ever bit on the bike and that would be ideal. But the easy and first test that will show if there is an initial problem, is what i posted earlier. Simply putting the multi-meter on the battery terminals and hold the throttle at 5k. If the stator is good, it will go up after the start to 14vt. If the r/r is doing it's job, it won't go above 14vt by more than .1-.2. vt The manual clearly outlines this test for the charging system as well.
 

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heres for stator & R/R
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright so I changed out the r/r and tested the charging voltage and its right at 14 V.

But it still won't start without giving it throttle and the bike will not idle. I brought it up to 160 degrees whilst testing the charging but it still wouldn't idle.

I rechecked the tps and they were all still in good values. Also changed the plugs.

So now, I have no clue whats wrong, from other threads I searched through it seems like the problem could be the need for a valve adjustment.

What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That sounds dangerous. Assuming the valves were done correctly and are not the problem, perhaps the cam chain tensioner?
Yeah I'm holding out on that idle tinkering. I don't think its the cct because when the bike runs there's none of that symptomatic clicking nose.

After doing a bunch of searching it seems like valves fixed the problem I'm having, I just can't think of anything else it could be if the valves were done correctly.
 
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