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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, this is my first time on this forum.

Im having some issues with my Yamaha R6 (2005) after winter storage, everything worked fine last summer. The motorcycle was placed on the back of a car trailer with roof for about 5 months. I topped of the fuel tank with fresh gasoline before storage, but did not disconnect the battery. When i took it out of storage a few weeks ago the battery was flat, but has since been removed from the bike and charged fully.

When getting ready for my first trip i noticed some issues with the idle. It starts at around 1000 RPM, but slowly increases as the engine heats up. When the engine is at operating temperature the idle can reach has high as 4000 RPM, this problem is consistent.
Everything else seems to be working fine, and the bike is running as it should during normal driving, but the rpm wont go under ~4000 RPM, which obviously is causing some issues during creep driving and engine breaking.

So far i have replaced the gasoline with fresh one, and checked the on-board diagnostics (which had no fault codes). The throttle position sensor is reporting values between 15 and 93, which should be fine. I have also tried spraying some start-gas around the vacuum tubes, which does not alter the idle speed.

Have anyone else experienced simular issues, or have some troubleshooting suggestions?
 

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So far i have replaced the gasoline with fresh one, and checked the on-board diagnostics (which had no fault codes). The throttle position sensor is reporting values between 15 and 93, which should be fine. I have also tried spraying some start-gas around the vacuum tubes, which does not alter the idle speed.

Have anyone else experienced simular issues, or have some troubleshooting suggestions?

Hi, closed position is ok, full open position is at 97 - 100, but before investigating the problem you have tried to adjust the idle?
 

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Hi, closed position is ok, full open position is at 97 - 100, but before investigating the problem you have tried to adjust the idle?
Thank you for your reply. I have made sure that the idle screw for "high idle" is fully retracted, so that should not be the problem. I see now that 93 as max open position may be a little low, but could that be related to the issues I am experiencing?
 

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We already know that it is not a bad idle setting. The problem is that there could be several components that can cause the problem.

According to what you have said I would check the TPS sensor, one of the failures of this sensor is that the engine is accelerated, especially when it takes a temperature and changes its resistance.

You could start there, since my experience the diagnosis mode has never helped me, my bike had faulty coils and the diagnosis system showed them correct.

Regarding the opening position, I do not think it comes from there is the problem, it is true that it is out of range, but I do not think it can cause that series of problems.
 

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What happens if you try to adjust the idle back down after it's warmed up?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
We already know that it is not a bad idle setting. The problem is that there could be several components that can cause the problem.

According to what you have said I would check the TPS sensor, one of the failures of this sensor is that the engine is accelerated, especially when it takes a temperature and changes its resistance.

You could start there, since my experience the diagnosis mode has never helped me, my bike had faulty coils and the diagnosis system showed them correct.

Regarding the opening position, I do not think it comes from there is the problem, it is true that it is out of range, but I do not think it can cause that series of problems.
Hello again, I appreciate your answer.
I will try to remove and diagnose the TPS next weekend when I have a garage available for use.
 

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Actually, you are mistaken. 2003-05 2nd gen bikes have a manual idle adjustment knob. Try adjusting it to a correct warm idle speed and then report back.
 

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Actually, you are mistaken. 2003-05 2nd gen bikes have a manual idle adjustment knob. Try adjusting it to a correct warm idle speed and then report back.
Are talking about the idle knob on the right side by the oil filler cap? That idle screw is fully retracted, so it does not affect anything. If there is any other idle screw please let me know :)
 

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TPS is one of the most commonly misdiagnosed items. The only thing the low max number means, is you will be a tad short of Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when you "floor" the accelerator. The only real impact of this, is not being able to put the ECU into "Flood Clear Mode" (turns off the injectors) when starting the engine. Besides min/max, TPS output must be liquid. If the numbers are jumpy, then try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner (if applicable) before replacing it. It's basically a potentiometer... fortunately way more reliable than the ones we used to have on the old VHF/UHF analog tuner televisions.

Hello XRayHound,
If im not mistaken I am not able to adjust the idle myself on a fuel injected engine? I tought the ECU controller everything.
The throttle body fuel control is all electronic. But the air control for older generations remains fully mechanical. The '08 S (probably like the '05) also has a throttle plate stop-screw. There's also the carb sync screws, though they typically don't need toyed with. Then there is the auto-choke. Three independent controls for air.

Take a look at your throttle body plates, throttle stop screw. Make sure the plates are fully closed, by looking at where the throttle stop screw is. Cracking those plates open even a tiny tiny bit, makes a huge difference. Start it cold, then adjust the screw that controls the auto-choke so that it's close to "proper" cold idle; but don't max it out.** Once warmed up to at least 167F (thermostat open temperature) or wherever your bike normally settles at, use the throttle plate stop screw to bring it back up to normal idle of ~around~ 1400 RPM.

** What is proper? Manual doesn't say. Manual doesn't seem to provide a procedure for adjusting the auto-choke... or I missed it. 4K is way high of course. This could be the WRONG way to adjust auto-choke. But this is what has worked for me thus far. Take detailed high resolution photos of the auto choke screw, BEFORE making adjustments to it. That way you can easily return it back to its original position, if troubleshooting pinpoint procedure necessitates it. EDIT: ~Around~ 2K RPM cold idle seems to work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
TPS is one of the most commonly misdiagnosed items. The only thing the low max number means, is you will be a tad short of Wide Open Throttle (WOT) when you "floor" the accelerator. The only real impact of this, is not being able to put the ECU into "Flood Clear Mode" (turns off the injectors) when starting the engine. Besides min/max, TPS output must be liquid. If the numbers are jumpy, then try cleaning it with electrical contact cleaner (if applicable) before replacing it. It's basically a potentiometer... fortunately way more reliable than the ones we used to have on the old VHF/UHF analog tuner televisions.


The throttle body fuel control is all electronic. But the air control for older generations remains fully mechanical. The '08 S (probably like the '05) also has a throttle plate stop-screw. There's also the carb sync screws, though they typically don't need toyed with. Then there is the auto-choke. Three independent controls for air.

Take a look at your throttle body plates, throttle stop screw. Make sure the plates are fully closed, by looking at where the throttle stop screw is. Cracking those plates open even a tiny tiny bit, makes a huge difference. Start it cold, then adjust the screw that controls the auto-choke so that it's close to "proper" cold idle; but don't max it out.** Once warmed up to at least 167F (thermostat open temperature) or wherever your bike normally settles at, use the throttle plate stop screw to bring it back up to normal idle of ~around~ 1400 RPM.

** What is proper? Manual doesn't say. Manual doesn't seem to provide a procedure for adjusting the auto-choke... or I missed it. 4K is way high of course. This could be the WRONG way to adjust auto-choke. But this is what has worked for me thus far. Take detailed high resolution photos of the auto choke screw, BEFORE making adjustments to it. That way you can easily return it back to its original position, if troubleshooting pinpoint procedure necessitates it.
Thank you for the descriptive answer, I will try to follow your instructions next weekend.
Does it make sense for you that this problem occured after winter storage? Everything was working as expected my last ride last season
 

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The auto choke is basically a cylinder that has coolant running through it. In routing, it lies between the engine head and radiator. As the engine warms up, it gradually increases cooling system pressure to the maximum pressure that is displayed on your cooling system cap. The cylinder in-turn, uses that pressure to press on a tab. The tab slides a long spring-loaded bar that in-turn, makes some mechanical adjustment on each of the four throttle body units. You can use your hand to push that around while it's off/running to get an idea on the operation/impact of it. Sometimes that sliding "bar" system gets a bit stiff... and needs to be cleaned up a little. Avoid using brake/carb cleaner as this damages rubber/silicon components. Though my vacuum lines appeared fine, I had to replace them earlier this year after a code 20 tipped me off to the fact that they were collapsing under vacuum. Code 20

Also, make sure that the coolant lines are hitting the cylinder in the order that is specified in the manual's graphic. May or may not make a difference, but it is better to be precise and eliminate that as a potential contributing factor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The auto choke is basically a cylinder that has coolant running through it. In routing, it lies between the engine head and radiator. As the engine warms up, it gradually increases cooling system pressure to the maximum pressure that is displayed on your cooling system cap. The cylinder in-turn, uses that pressure to press on a tab. The tab slides a long spring-loaded bar that in-turn, makes some mechanical adjustment on each of the four throttle body units. You can use your hand to push that around while it's off/running to get an idea on the operation/impact of it. Sometimes that sliding "bar" system gets a bit stiff... and needs to be cleaned up a little. Avoid using brake/carb cleaner as this damages rubber/silicon components. Though my vacuum lines appeared fine, I had to replace them earlier this year after a code 20 tipped me off to the fact that they were collapsing under vacuum. Code 20

Also, make sure that the coolant lines are hitting the cylinder in the order that is specified in the manual's graphic. May or may not make a difference, but it is better to be precise and eliminate that as a potential contributing factor.
Thanks again for an informative answer. I will let you know how it goes.
Do you think this issue should be fine to drive with until I get it fixed, or can it damage some components long-term?
 

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Having to take off at 4k is a lot of extra clutch wear. Wet clutches are pretty damned durable but I'd still park it.
 

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I dunno how your bike is idling at all, if you have the idle screw backed all the way off like you say, your butterflies are seated. After you clean up the auto choke like Intuit suggested, if it's still doing it (or if you've already tried this) I'd be curious to know what happens if you adjust the Dead COLD idle UP to around 2000 where it's supposed to be.
 

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Hi guys, about the automatic choke, you refer to the IAC valve?

I'm probably confused, since in the injection system I don't see any reference,
or you are referring to the right side of the body where the throttle cable is?
 

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I dunno how your bike is idling at all, if you have the idle screw backed all the way off like you say, your butterflies are seated. After you clean up the auto choke like Intuit suggested, if it's still doing it (or if you've already tried this) I'd be curious to know what happens if you adjust the Dead COLD idle UP to around 2000 where it's supposed to be.
I have not tried cleaning the "auto choke" yet, but I have tried adjusting the cold idle screw to increase the "starting" RPM thus only "delaying" the problem. By delaying the problem I mean that the idle starts at 2000rpm instead of around ~1300, but eventually it will increase to around 3500 - 4000 as the engine heats up.
Pardon my bad english
 

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I dunno how your bike is idling at all, if you have the idle screw backed all the way off like you say, your butterflies are seated. After you clean up the auto choke like Intuit suggested, if it's still doing it (or if you've already tried this) I'd be curious to know what happens if you adjust the Dead COLD idle UP to around 2000 where it's supposed to be.
Even though the rpm is way too high it is still "stable" at every "step" from ~1300 to ~4000
 

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But if your idle goes up to 4000 rpm with the engine warm you have not solved anything. You say that the idle screw has been increased in cold to increase the rpm, but I did not do it with the engine warm, to try to lower the rpm?

If you have checked the automatic choke and have tried to adjust the idle speed by the screw, and have not managed to solve anything, there is no problem. When the engine is warm and idling above 4,000 rpm, adjust it, and say what happens.
 
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