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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My name is billy and I’m 16 turn 17 in a couple months and for my birthday I’ve been saving to get a 16 r6 anniversary that’s for sale in my city. I’ve been riding a ktm duke 390 since I got my permit at 14 and have about 3000 miles on it I have my parents on board as long as I pay for the bike but I just want opinions from people with more experience or to see if there is a better option than an r6 cause I’ve read about the power band and all of that.I have little experience on highways cause I spent most the time in the city.
 

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I find the R6 mildly tedious in the commute stop and go, good at 40mph, starting to be very nice at 60mph and so on. Particularly below 20mph or so control over rpm and speed is delicate because there isn't much power and the engine is easily stalled. Handling-wise its nice and light, steers well, suspension does a great job- all that is relevant over 40mph. So its not well-suited for poking around in a city, but fantastic on highways. My old Bandit was good in the slow traffic grind- it had quite a bit more low end torque and HP so stop and go was easier than the R6 while lugging around in 1st/2nd in traffic, but the R6 is another world altogether once things are moving. If you get an R6 I think you will be drawn to the highways like a nail to a magnet :)
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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Get an msf beginner course under your belt to instill real world hazards responsesl in your brain.
 

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Billy,
If you have been through a "beginners course" and have just over 3K miles. Your in for a surprise, bumping up to the R6. 100HP difference. Respect of the throttle is your first and every thought when you twist your wrist. I would ADVISE you after the purchase to take an "advanced class". (Gpounce ) has a very good explanation of how the R6 is around town, at slow speed the throttle will canoe. You are use to just cranking the throttle and let the clutch out quickly on the KTM. The R6 with that wrist crank will possibly flip over and land on you, try to buck you off, or just spin out from under you. Not ideal at a traffic light.
Good Luck, be safe
 

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Yeah thats a good point, the low end is deceptive, the engine can easily get away from you if you grab a handful of throttle trying to get the bike moving.

Vitally important to know what you're going for when adding throttle; better to downshift a bunch and keep the throttle more closed than to lug the bike in a higher gear and lots of throttle to coax up the speed.

Once rpms build the bike is going somewhere Right Now.
 

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YZFR6... ooodles of HP
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At 9k hold on!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Billy,
If you have been through a "beginners course" and have just over 3K miles. Your in for a surprise, bumping up to the R6. 100HP difference. Respect of the throttle is your first and every thought when you twist your wrist. I would ADVISE you after the purchase to take an "advanced class". (Gpounce ) has a very good explanation of how the R6 is around town, at slow speed the throttle will canoe. You are use to just cranking the throttle and let the clutch out quickly on the KTM. The R6 with that wrist crank will possibly flip over and land on you, try to buck you off, or just spin out from under you. Not ideal at a traffic light.
Good Luck, be safe
Thank you for the feed back do you think it would be better to save a little more and get the 2017 r6 cause I know they have the modes to make throttle response slower and less trying to kill me
 

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Thank you for the feed back do you think it would be better to save a little more and get the 2017 r6 cause I know they have the modes to make throttle response slower and less trying to kill me
I would, the 17 and newer has the R1 front suspension. The engine is the same, but everything else is different. Better overall bike. At the track there are more 17-20 R6 bikes at the start line that all the other bikes combined. Good Luck, be safe.
 
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